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RetroMower

If it ain't broke

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RetroMower

Finally getting around to making my C100 look as good as it runs. I used it all last year for mowing but it needed cosmetic assistance. I like the used patina and my B100 was in that perfect state where a little wet sanding was all it needed to spruce it up but my C100 must have set outside for a long time. All the sheetmetal was fairly rusty and rough. The large sheetmetal parts are at a sandblast shop right now as they wouldn't fit in my cabinet. My question right now is I want to clean and degrease the tranny for paint so should I go that extra mile and split the case? It works perfectly fine with no noise or leaks currently. 

I have questions about the shifter boot replacement and insight regarding the steering wheel being removed but this is already long winded. 

20200306_082541.jpg

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ebinmaine

If the transmission works okay there is no need to split the case.

If you don't know the history of it and you want to check it out inside then now is obviously the best time to do it.

 

The shifter boot can be had from Wheel Horse Parts And More.

Definitely want to replace the seals right now as well.

Also, check your wheel bearings. You don't want much up and down play.

 

 

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bottjernat1

:text-yeahthat:I fully agree with ebinmaine. if its not broke dont mess with it! You can also get the boot from ebay or direct from toro. If you know someone who is a stens dealer they also carry the boot. The steering wheel just take it easy is the best advise i got. I have a special tool to pull steering wheels my late dad bought it from someone. It makes the job easy. It isnt like anything on the market. I will see if i can get u some photos. wished I knew where my dad had gotten it.

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stevasaurus

I think I would drain the oil and see what it looks like, change the seals and if all the shafts are tight...go with it.  :occasion-xmas:

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:

On the steering wheel the worse part might be getting the roll pin out. Shop press will take care of the rest. 

 

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RetroMower

The tranny fluid will definitely be changed. As far as splitting the case my concern was after nearly 50 years of even the gentlest of use the bearings may be functional but possibly very near the end of their lives. After seeing the carnage in my b100 hydro gearbox I feel compelled to inspect this one before a few rogue needle bearings wreak havoc. I'm just wondering how this 8 speed manual compares in difficulty to the automatic. 

The steering wheel looks equally challenging. I can see someone already tried to remove the roll pin as the one end is mushroomed pretty good. Somehow I'm more intimidated by it than taking the gearbox apart. I don't think I would have to try very hard to damage it during removal 

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ebinmaine
47 minutes ago, RetroMower said:

Somehow I'm more intimidated by it than taking the gearbox apart

 

 

Trina and I have not tackled a steering wheel yet.

We have however taken apart several transmissions. All gear drives.

They are not particularly complicated.

 

Go to the head of the transmission section and watch Steve's videos for the appropriate one you have and you will be in great shape.

 

 

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oilwell1415

I have a different philosophy.  If it ain't broke, work on it until it is.

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, oilwell1415 said:

I have a different philosophy.  If it ain't broke, work on it until it is.

Okay. Okay. Okay.

 

:hide:

 

 

It's possible I've done that as well.

 

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Stormin
2 hours ago, RetroMower said:

 After seeing the carnage in my b100 hydro gearbox I feel compelled to inspect this one before a few rogue needle bearings wreak havoc. 

 

Been there. Seen it and got the tee shirt. :(

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953 nut
4 hours ago, RetroMower said:

someone already tried to remove the roll pin as the one end is mushroomed pretty good. Somehow I'm more intimidated by it than taking the gearbox apart. I don't think I would have to try very hard to damage it during removal

If you remove the hood stand with the steering shaft and heat the shaft red hot below the steering wheel then clamp it in a vise the pin can be driven out a lot easier.

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WHX??

Yah the last one I tackled was 'roomed out on one side but the right punch and a BFH I got lucky on the good side. 

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

have not tackled a steering wheel yet.

So yer sayin EB you have not yet fulfilled the rites of passage to real (:wh:) manhood?!?!:ychain:

If it makes you sleep better at nite Mower split the cases for inspection. It's not like you can't get parts should you need and we know guys who can help with problems. The the only issue might be the difficulty getting the hubs off.

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oliver2-44

Drain the transmission and let the oil be your gage.

If it is dark black or brown, and the axles don't have much movement, don't split it. 

If it is milky gray or significant water or clumps come out, or the axles move more than a 32nd, split it.

 

Wheelhorse Rites of Passage:

Remove steering wheel roll pin and wheel

Removing Transmission axle hubs

Removing rust frozen rear hitch pin.  

 

 

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RetroMower
2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Drain the transmission and let the oil be your gage.

If it is dark black or brown, and the axles don't have much movement, don't split it. 

If it is milky gray or significant water or clumps come out, or the axles move more than a 32nd, split it.

 

Wheelhorse Rites of Passage:

Remove steering wheel roll pin and wheel

Removing Transmission axle hubs

Removing rust frozen rear hitch pin.  

 

 

I like your reasoning and its probably my best bet getting the tinkerer in me to shut up and stop taking things unnecessarily too far. And your rites of passage checklist, I have two of the three completed. Hitch pin and hubs I've tackled already. If I complete the steering wheel trifecta do I have to perform some ritual to truly be one with my :wh:?

Edited by RetroMower
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dells68
48 minutes ago, RetroMower said:

If I complete the steering wheel trifecta do I have to perform some ritual to truly be one with my :wh:?

I think that might be for another forum!  Too much info and an man can never unlearn what he hears or unsee what he sees!:ROTF:

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Stormin
5 hours ago, RetroMower said:

 If I complete the steering wheel trifecta do I have to perform some ritual to truly be one with my :wh:?

 

At next full moon, run naked round an oak tree at midnight. Thrice clockwise, then thrice anticlockwise. Flagellating yourself with a birch branch. :orcs-whip:

Edited by Stormin
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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, RetroMower said:

ritual

 

1 hour ago, Stormin said:

 

At next full moon, run naked round an oak tree at midnight. Thrice clockwise, then thrice anticlockwise. Flagellating yourself with a birch branch. :orcs-whip:

 

 

So just another weekend overnight.

Nothing unusual.....

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953 nut
7 hours ago, RetroMower said:

If I complete the steering wheel trifecta do I have to perform some ritual to truly be one with my :wh:?

 

1 hour ago, Stormin said:

 

At next full moon, run naked round an oak tree at midnight. Thrice clockwise, then thrice anticlockwise. Flagellating yourself with a birch branch. :orcs-whip:

You had to ask, didn't you!              :angry-tappingfoot:

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clueless

I've always said if it ain't broke I can fix that. 

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peter lena

retromower , that steering wheel spiral pin , is best and easiest way is to use a size to size hole to drift pin , eliminate any " impact bounce "  concentrating that force to pin impact , thoroughly soaked in penetrating oil, i have found the spiral pin to move on first impact with a 3 lb hammer.   i lightly  sand the hole bore and use never seize to re install. also use the opportunity of a free steering shaft , to mock up an added mounting point for a  2 or  4 bolt flange bearing . that will instantly stop your shaft play.  done this a few times ,and it works , pete  

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clueless

If you use the right size roll pin punch, it works better than the drift pin, the drift pin tends to flatten and widen the outer diameter of the roll pin making it harder to slide out. The last one I did was the easiest one I've done, soaked it with penetrating oil, In-Force by BG is what I use, every few days for about a week.Then chuck up the right size roll pin punch in my neighbor's hammer drill, (not an impact drill) hit it a few time wait awhile do it again. After a couple of hour of doing this every thirty minutes or so the pin slid right out. The hammer drill eliminates the the "impact bounce" that you get with a BFH :handgestures-thumbupright:.

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peter lena

retro mower, while building up your  dash/steering column tower its a good opportunity  to tighten up your pto lever , the angular fit rod next to the bottom of your battery is especially sloppy , why i do not know, but if you go to your local h/w store and go to the small box slide out section , nylon washers fill in the gap ,i use silicone grease . the lever difference is very smooth and not sloppy . its a easy improvement while you are rebuilding this area anyway. i also added a heim joint to the same rod , removing the clevis point  at the end, easy to die nut threads and screw on female / male joint . works so easy , its stupid . jmoo , pete  

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RetroMower

I defeated the roll pin in the steering wheel but lacking a press I'm going to have to machine a plate for my puller for the actual removal of bvb the wheel. I'll post pics if it works 

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WHX??

You can probably use a regular bearing separator and puller you have such Retro. Other wise if you don't and don't  have the need for the tools in the future a 12 pak might get it done for someone  who has a press. Your talkin machine so sounds like you got a handle on things. Good to hear on just getting the pin out... half the battle won right ther! :)

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