Paint steps

[Mudrig150 298]

So I'm cleaning up my project to repaint it... What is the best way to do it with only spray cans or can paint?

I think this is the right order for painting it:

1. Clean up the metal
2. Wipe it down good with a paper towel
3. Prime
4. Fill in rust pitting with body filler
5. Sand
6. Paint, let dry
7. Clear coat

Any suggestions? Which would be better, paint cans or spray cans? If it's paint cans, what is the best way to apply the paint? I don't have a working paint gun so my options are limited.

Here is the paint color: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Krylon-Farm-Implement-Paint-John-Deere-Green-Quart-Made-in-USA-7201-319-/273022349155

https://www.grainger.com/product/38EM59?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPo12YY5AEufLCTJbSPk1JhVyTjRv7et4a2BSSSfvJFS4CXxKWnJFioaAkipEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPo12YY5AEufLCTJbSPk1JhVyTjRv7et4a2BSSSfvJFS4CXxKWnJFioaAkipEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275747!!!g!525259996287!

Edited March 4, 2020 by Mudrig150

[ebinmaine 67,266]

I'm going to change steps 1 + 2 a little bit for you and the rest of it you've got correct ..

 

 

 

Step one. Instead of saying clean up the metal. You may want to put something like remove rust and paint.

 

 

For step 2 you do NOT want to use paper towels.

 

Even very good quality paper towels will leave a slight lint residue which will translate into the paint.

 

Clean shop rags are a much better idea. Preferably White unless you are using white paint or primer.

 

 

Wipe down your surface with acetone or a cleaner approved by your spray paint of choice.

 

Repeat that step. Make sure your hands are grease free. Make sure the surface is grease, oil, any other chemical free.

 

 

 

[Bigtrx34 321]

Rattle cans are alright for areas that dont get much abrasion to them or areas that are small. For hoods and fender pans floor boards and the like I dont like rattle cans. It can be done but the look is just not right, tiger stripes and missed matched finish. The biggest thing for me is not having the ability to use hardeners in your paint. If you are doing a working machine and you are not worried about it a can will do you fine. If you want something with a better finish get a gun 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

3 minutes ago, Bigtrx34 said:

Rattle cans are alright for areas that dont get much abrasion to them or areas that are small. For hoods and fender pans floor boards and the like I dont like rattle cans. It CAN BE DONE but the look is just not right, tiger stripes and missed matched finish. The biggest thing for me is not having the ability to use hardeners in your paint. If you are doing a working machine and you are not worried about it a can will do you fine. If you want something with a better finish get a gun 

 

 

Note the words I highlighted above.

 

Now note the fact that Trina is known as my paint department.

 

She has a level of patience and talent that I admittedly do not possess.

 

She has practiced and learned to come up with a nice even surface and color. She has a FAR preferred paint brand in Rust-Oleum 2X.

 

I point that out because it's important to remember that everybody has a different style and you may want to try two or three brands to see if one works better for your style of spraying.

 

Definitely agree that a hardener in the paint would be ideal. We don't worry about that because we only spray working equipment.

 

@Mudrig150 the hardener thing reminds me. Make sure you give that paint plenty of time to cure. Like weeks.... 

[Bigtrx34 321]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Note the words I highlighted above.

 

Now note the fact that Trina is known as my paint department.

 

She has a level of patience and talent that I admittedly do not possess.

 

She has practiced and learned to come up with a nice even surface and color. She has a FAR preferred paint brand in Rust-Oleum 2X.

 

I point that out because it's important to remember that everybody has a different style and you may want to try two or three brands to see if one works better for your style of spraying.

 

Definitely agree that a hardener in the paint would be ideal. We don't worry about that because we only spray working equipment.

 

@Mudrig150 the hardener thing reminds me. Make sure you give that paint plenty of time to cure. Like weeks.... 

I agree with you for sure. I use a combo of spray cans and self mixed and gun applied. Magic is my brand of choice but I am by no means a body tech! The point about dry times can not be understated even at very low humidity with about 80 deg Fahrenheit in my shop I tend to leve parts hanging for 5 days or more. I do not have the ability to make a spray can work well on a large hood or fender, 80% looks great 20% looks like the cat vomited on it.......just me I suppose.

[squonk 41,020]

Most worker's I'll rattle can. If it's something I want to stay nice I use automotive urethane single stage. The drier put into the paint makes it dry quick and hard. You can get this paint put into a spray can at a store like Napa but it's pretty pricey.

[rmaynard 15,427]

And I will add this as I always do when the subject of painting comes up.

 

Breathing protection is a must.

 

Do not paint without adequate protection. If you can smell it, you are breathing it. Some paints, especially those with hardeners and isocyanates can lead to serious illness or even death. Isocyanates are similar to crazy glue. Imagine getting that into your lungs. 

 

This is not to scare you, but just to remind you that adequate breathing protection is a must.

[Mudrig150 298]

It's not going to be much of a worker, it's going to be primed then the engine will hopefully go on to get the mechanical working good, it's pretty much just going to be a light worker and show tractor, it won't see huge work, but it'll take rides around and pull light trailers.

[oliver2-44 9,679]

As EB mentioned on cleaning up the metal, If I don't blast to bare metal, I work the rusty area with wire brush or maybe 180 sand paper. Then I would sand all the original paint with 220 wet/dry sand paper.  This gives the primer a good fresh surface to stick to.  To clean, i would use some cotton rags like T short material, or a box of lint free rags from a paint store/ auto supply.  

 

When you sand large surfaces like the hood and fenders use a flexible sanding pad.  if you don't have one, the flexible plastic auto body puty applicator works, or even a wood block.  you want to lear to do this so as you painting progresses you don't make tiny hills and vallrys sanding with you hand and fingers.  

 

After you sand you auto body puty smooth, remember to re-prime on top of it.  

On step 5 I would sand the primer with a 320 wet or dry.  

 

After your finish paint has dried, on large surfaces that show like the hood and fenders,you might want to lightly sand areas that have over-spray, orange peal or just dust from the air.  i would use a 400 wet/dry paper and just lightly sand to knock off the "hi-spots.  Your not trying to sand it to be perfectly, just smooth enough so the clear coat can cover over the hi spots and not make a bigger bump. 

 

For rattle can paint, I prefer Rustoleum Farm and Implement paint

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj_gcX8nILoAhWHwMAKHfLRCPcYABAYGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD2Xzl2WPfjTwqcJadclJqpvTmqz1FNjzVlzQ8_mgbsdUKhIUbTc1aO5WRcQD1a6TS-uiAuUT6yyPzjL8E4IvQx&sig=AOD64_0fYjbtk1oa18yUMKuGBQ5IpTgETA&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwis-rn8nILoAhUKR6wKHc7tChcQ9aACegQIDRBd&adurl=

or Rustoleum Stops Rust paint. 

or   https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjWsbPUnILoAhUE28AKHf13CcsYABAKGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD2zEkgys-LGUUpMJnHHdzFui15zOK3BYmtcuAgYOP1OyEUpeID0dz7Cew1K0QN9Q3ASmiM0jHtYad0yD6H_qP8&sig=AOD64_3SvwUcGsbH0vZXd8RuGZ0VsQpAMA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiglaTUnILoAhUKP60KHVlhAJwQ9aACegQIDRBh&adurl=

 

I have found the "Majic brand paint to be the slowest to dry hard and it seems to fade the quickest.   

 

[Achto 27,502]

6 hours ago, Mudrig150 said:

• Clean up the metal
• Wipe it down good with a paper towel
• Prime
• Fill in rust pitting with body filler
• Sand
• Paint, let dry
• Clear coat

 

Unless you are only going to use a lacquer based spot putty, you should have all of your body work done before you prime the metal. A two part body filler (which is I suggest using to fill dents and rust pitting) should only be applied to bare metal that has at least a 36grit scratch in it.

 

Example of spot putty.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty/dp/B004BYKICG/ref=asc_df_B004BYKICG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14115958446102038342&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-568038597480&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14115958446102038342&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-568038597480

 

Example of a two part body filler.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Body-Filler-00261ES-14-fl-oz/17130346?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=282&adid=22222222227024097169&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42976680032&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-81468954032&wl5=9019452&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838817&wl11=online&wl12=17130346&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPp-TbuF1ZA60YlpEpawbh5sqcdm7j1MDeIzD8DfmjLu5BfRYcr3JPUaAsarEALw_wcB

 

 

Edited March 5, 2020 by Achto

[Cvans 1,009]

If your going to use rattle cans like many of us do get yourself one of these.You'll be very happy you did. They are less than $5 and the best thing since Pampers.

 

[Bigtrx34 321]

Oliver2-44 you are right Majic does take forever to dry!! I have not run into the fade issue so much but I could see that being a thing. Had a buddy paint his tractor the same time I did my 312. His faded within a year, while mine stayed fresh. I wax and polish my tractors 2 or 3 times in the short grass season and store them inside the garage under canvas so maybe that is the saving grace. I like that I can get it without to "much issue" in quart and gallon and mix as needed but I may have to try some other brands as called out on this topic. 

Love this site I get to learn new things each time I get on it.

Edited March 5, 2020 by Bigtrx34

[Mudrig150 298]

I'm only using the krylon because the only green I can find with that slight hint of blue that is correct for the Burns.

 

I also already know to clean the metal up real good, I left some flaking white paint on the seat, and boy is the primer I sprayed on comin off fast.

Edited March 5, 2020 by Mudrig150

[ebinmaine 67,266]

3 hours ago, Mudrig150 said:

I'm only using the krylon because the only green I can find with that slight hint of blue that is correct for the Burns

 

Krylon is perfectly fine. The only thing I find about it from past history is that it doesn't cover as well as most Rust-Oleum. The only real issue there is you need to compensate by putting on an extra coat or two.

 

What also helps quite a lot is to have a good solid coat of primer.

 

[Mudrig150 298]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Krylon is perfectly fine. The only thing I find about it from past history is that it doesn't cover as well as most Rust-Oleum. The only real issue there is you need to compensate by putting on an extra coat or two.

 

What also helps quite a lot is to have a good solid coat of primer.

 

Yep. I usually go with one or two coats of primer to really cover everything. 

A good solid layer of primer means nothing when the paint underneath is falling off, but tell that to 90% of amateur repainters. I'm amazed at how this tractor is cleaning up. It's actually got most of the rust on the original paint, because of the iron flakes in it, and the paint is really on there, so I don't think that the paint coming off is much of an issue.

Edited March 5, 2020 by Mudrig150

[bottjernat1 2,190]

On my wheelhorse i redid I had a local body shop do most of the tractor but i did the rear end and the motor. I used oven cleaner on the flywheel covers and other tins. Used a wire brush then took the parts and washed them. I put if i remember right 2 coats of primer 3 coats of paint and 2 or 3 coats of clear coat. I used rattle cans. I think i did a fantastic job. at least everyone tells me that. LOL I finished it in 2015. 

[oilwell1415 563]

Quality rattle can paint today is leaps and bounds ahead of what it was not all that long ago.  It will never be as good as professional quality automotive paint, but you can do a really good job with it if you take your time.  Just make sure you use a quality product and not the cheapest thing on the shelf at the dollar store.  I'll give a second vote to the Rustoleum 2X mentioned above.

[Mudrig150 298]

1 minute ago, oilwell1415 said:

Quality rattle can paint today is leaps and bounds ahead of what it was not all that long ago.  It will never be as good as professional quality automotive paint, but you can do a really good job with it if you take your time.  Just make sure you use a quality product and not the cheapest thing on the shelf at the dollar store.  I'll give a second vote to the Rustoleum 2X mentioned above.

I painted a Deere front plate, and it looks ok. I think the paint is fine, it's just I didn't get all of the original paint off and the orange peel is awful.

Rustoleum does sell Oliver green, which is close, but I can't seem to track down any kind of reliable source for it. Might just be me.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

1 hour ago, Mudrig150 said:

can't seem to track down any kind of reliable source for it. Might just be me

I order almost all of my Rust-Oleum from homedepot.com.

 

It's often less expensive but I don't order it from Wally world because often the descriptions don't quite match so I don't trust what I'm getting.

[oilwell1415 563]

1 hour ago, Mudrig150 said:

I painted a Deere front plate, and it looks ok. I think the paint is fine, it's just I didn't get all of the original paint off and the orange peel is awful.

Rustoleum does sell Oliver green, which is close, but I can't seem to track down any kind of reliable source for it. Might just be me.

A good paint job is 90% prep and 10% paint.  Mediocre paint on with great prep will look 100 times better than great paint on mediocre prep.

 

Lowe's, Ace Hardware, and Walmart all sell it....at least they do here.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

1 minute ago, oilwell1415 said:

A good paint job is 90% prep and 10% paint.  Mediocre paint on with great prep will look 100 times better than great paint on mediocre prep.

 

 

 

Well said

[Achto 27,502]

2 hours ago, Mudrig150 said:

Rustoleum does sell Oliver green, which is close, but I can't seem to track down any kind of reliable source for it. Might just be me

 

If you have a Tractor Supply in your area their Majic brand paint is comparable to Rustoleum. They usually carry many of the popular tractor colors.

 

3 hours ago, Mudrig150 said:

Yep. I usually go with one or two coats of primer to really cover everything.

 

The sheet metal is probably the most important part on a tractor when it comes to looks. If you want to improve your finish on these parts here is a suggestion. Step up to 3 or 4 coats of primer. Let it dry for at least 12hrs. Use water & 600 grit sand paper to sand the primer smooth before painting. A little trick for this sanding process. If you used a gray primer then do a light dusting of a darker primer over it before you sand. When you sand try to remove the all of the dusting of the second color. This will help you know that you have every thing sanded smooth. Taking the time to wet sand before you paint will greatly improve your end results. 

[alvinabish 3]

If I were you, I would also wash the metal and let it dry so that it is ready to accept the paint, and of course check whether your paint is suitable for this type of surface. And of course, it is important what the paint consists of and what you are going to use the room for. A couple of years ago I was living in Singapore and decided to paint my house, but the paint did not fit the wall at all. She just didn't hold up at all. I called my friend who provided the cheap hdb painting service package and he explained to me that my paint simply does not fit this type of building. That is, it was for large enterprises, where people can walk in protective equipment, and I almost painted my house in harmful paint! Therefore, carefully choose the paint that you use.

Edited August 20, 2021 by alvinabish

[Gregor 4,845]

On 3/4/2020 at 2:25 PM, Mudrig150 said:

• Clean up the metal
• Wipe it down good with a paper towel
• Prime
• Fill in rust pitting with body filler
• Sand
• Paint, let dry
• Clear coat

You seem to have a way of simplifying a very involved task.

All my tractors are painted with rattle cans, with the exception of one. There is no denying it is a better looking paint job, but for what it cost, it should be.

1.  For me, media blasting the tin work, is a must. You can't beat it

2. Paper towels will leave microscopic bits, you may not see them on the metal, but they will show up in the paint. A tack rag is hard to beat.

3. A good quality primer, ON EVERYTHING is a must, if you want the color to be uniform.

4. See #1. Get rid of ALL rust first.

5. Some rattle cans, and clear coats, don't always want the paint to be HARD dry, before applying additional coats. Read instructions on your can.

 

I would add;

Weather conditions.  Temperature is important, but so is humidity. Humidity above 60% can ruin an otherwise great paint job.

 Lighting.                   To get a good finish, not striped looking, you have to maintain a "wet" look, throughout the entire piece. Sometimes its hard to see.

                                   Proper lighting is important. If you can't see it, you can't paint it.

Lots of paint               Don't try to spray too much at once, but use plenty of primer, color, and clear coat. I will typically use 10 - 15 cans of paint on a tractor.

Drying                         After the last coat, I give everything 2 - 3 days of dry time. Don't rush it.

 

                    

[Zeek 2,286]

On 3/4/2020 at 3:25 PM, Mudrig150 said:

So I'm cleaning up my project to repaint it... What is the best way to do it with only spray cans or can paint?

I think this is the right order for painting it:

1. Clean up the metal
2. Wipe it down good with a paper towel
3. Prime
4. Fill in rust pitting with body filler
5. Sand
6. Paint, let dry
7. Clear coat

Any suggestions? Which would be better, paint cans or spray cans? If it's paint cans, what is the best way to apply the paint? I don't have a working paint gun so my options are limited.

Here is the paint color: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Krylon-Farm-Implement-Paint-John-Deere-Green-Quart-Made-in-USA-7201-319-/273022349155

https://www.grainger.com/product/38EM59?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPo12YY5AEufLCTJbSPk1JhVyTjRv7et4a2BSSSfvJFS4CXxKWnJFioaAkipEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPo12YY5AEufLCTJbSPk1JhVyTjRv7et4a2BSSSfvJFS4CXxKWnJFioaAkipEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275747!!!g!525259996287!

 

Prep is everything. I worked at a body shop in my early life.

1. Clean metal. Doesn't need to be to bare metal, but if painting over old paint no less than #320 (you will see scratches after).
2. Clean metal with Tolulene or Xylene (Lowes) with a rag. Wipe with solvent rag, dry with different rag. Using same one only smears thing like old wax around and will fisheye later. Never use paper towels, they leave debris.
3. Filler. If there are dents or deeper imperfections body filler (pink filler) goes over bare metal, not primer. Sand and do #2 again.
4. Primer
5. Wet sand with #400
6. Fill minor imperfections like small rust pits with red glazing spot putty.
7. Wet sand with #400 and do # 2 again
8. Paint. 

You can go on from there with wet sanding buffing, but it's not necessary unless you want show quality. I did three this way. I used this paint gun. It does a great job, but you need to thin the paint and know how to set it up (watch YouTube). I used Rustoleum Regal Red for the color. I did not use anything water-based from Tractor Supply because it takes FOREVER to dry (I tried it). Krylon paint is better and easier to work with than Rustoleum in my opinion. Painting is best done in low humidity as stated on all the paint labels. Otherwise you will have a haze on the finish. Hardener helps with chipping. My advice would be to watch a bunch of YouTube videos because there little things you can change like dry sanding instead of wet, but it depends on how much work you want to do and how good you want it to look when done.

 

This tractor and others were done this way with a few additional steps after painting.