Digger 66 3,478 #1 Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) Hey fellas . I just scored this little gem yesterday and I will be going all over it shortly . The thing's in immaculate shape : -Dexter torsion type axle -(Lockable) Stow-able on-board ramp for rear or side-loading (Lockable) spare tire and carrier -Bearing Buddies -Tongue jack -Rigid tie-downs at front & rear and adjustable anchor points along the side rails All welds are in great shape and trailer measured out perfectly square The question I have is when I am replacing the decking , what screws can be used to eliminate the reaction of dissimilar metals ( galvanic corrosion ) ? Everything I'm reading says Aluminum screws into an Aluminum frame are best but , I'm worrying that the heads may be too soft and strip when it comes time to remove them again . Stainless seems to be the best other option but will still encourage galvanic corrosion to some degree . The Aluminum screws are as expensive as heck ( though I'm not really worried about the $ factor ) and I can't seem to find them with a wide enough head . Calling all would-be metallurgists ! What would you do ? Thanks all ! Here's a pic a snapped while at the sellers house . Edited February 23, 2020 by Digger 66 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #2 Posted February 23, 2020 Nice find on that! What material are you using for the decking? Is there a specific time period until you remove the screws again or just whenever the need? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #3 Posted February 23, 2020 8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Nice find on that! What material are you using for the decking? Is there a specific time period until you remove the screws again or just whenever the need? > Thanks bud > Not really sure , maybe pressure treated ? > Not really a specific time period Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #4 Posted February 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, Digger 66 said: pressure treated That's likely the way I'd go as well. And why the fastener material matters. Pressure treated wood is NOT compatible with certain materials. If you have a trailer dealer nearby that does their own repair work they may be helpful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #5 Posted February 23, 2020 13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: That's likely the way I'd go as well. And why the fastener material matters. Pressure treated wood is NOT compatible with certain materials. If you have a trailer dealer nearby that does their own repair work they may be helpful. Yeah I thought about the reaction between the Zinc in the Pressure Treated laying on the Aluminum too . Maybe just regular plywood , dry fitted then removed and coated with polyurethane on both sides , then reassembled ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #6 Posted February 23, 2020 18 minutes ago, Digger 66 said: coated with I don't know enough about weather resistant coatings to answer. Perhaps others could throw in... I like the stiffness and flatness of engineered wood like advantech. Not sure what the lifetime would be compared to standard plywood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #7 Posted February 23, 2020 18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I like the stiffness and flatness of engineered wood like advantech. Ditto ^^ but PRICE ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,307 #8 Posted February 23, 2020 Thinking outa the box here....maybe look into an aluminum diamond plate deck? Or something made of aluminum if not diamond plate. Probably a bit pricey but you’ll only have to buy it once 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #9 Posted February 23, 2020 Just now, Sparky said: Thinking outa the box here....maybe look into an aluminum diamond plate deck? Or something made of aluminum if not diamond plate. Probably a bit pricey but you’ll only have to buy it once Thickness would be too shallow unless I built up the channels with something . Thanks though ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #10 Posted February 23, 2020 9 minutes ago, Digger 66 said: Ditto ^^ but PRICE ? It'll vary a little by region. 5/8 or 3/4 plywood should be $20 - $25 per sheet. 5/8 or 3/4 Advantech should be $30 - $38 or so. I'd ABSOLUTELY USE THE 3/4 if it'll work on the trailer. Remember that Advantech is not quite a full 4 x 8 size due to the T & G edges. You'll pay for nearly a another sheet of plywood but you'll have a better surface. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,307 #11 Posted February 23, 2020 Off topic here but just noticed the WVU decal, my daughter is there. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,350 #12 Posted February 23, 2020 Strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood if you use pressure-treated plywood will help with any reaction , and use galvanized screws also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #13 Posted February 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, rjg854 said: Strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood if you use pressure-treated plywood will help with any reaction , and use galvanized screws also. Both good points. Make SURE the screws are Hot Dip Galvanized and or buy them from the vendor of the PT if that's what you use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #14 Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Sparky said: Off topic here but just noticed the WVU decal, my daughter is there. My favorite place to take the ATV . The other sticker says HMT ( Hatfield McCoy Trails ) Edited February 23, 2020 by Digger 66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,407 #15 Posted February 23, 2020 1 hour ago, rjg854 said: Strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood if you use pressure-treated plywood will help with any reaction , and use galvanized screws also. 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Both good points. Make SURE the screws are Hot Dip Galvanized and or buy them from the vendor of the PT if that's what you use. I'm confused... @rjg854 What do you mean by "strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood"? And are hot-dipped galvanized fasteners okay for PT lumber? I was just using a box of electro-galvanized nails for a small project, and they specifically say not to use them with treated lumber. But I can't remember (and too lazy to look it up on a Sunday morning), are hot-dipped okay? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #16 Posted February 23, 2020 15 minutes ago, tunahead72 said: I'm confused... @rjg854 What do you mean by "strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood"? And are hot-dipped galvanized fasteners okay for PT lumber? I was just using a box of electro-galvanized nails for a small project, and they specifically say not to use them with treated lumber. But I can't remember (and too lazy to look it up on a Sunday morning), are hot-dipped okay? The strips of ice and water that is being referred to are ice and water shield like what would be used on a roof. Ever since the chemicals used to pressure treat wood were changed about 15 years ago and adjusted since, there has been a lot of confusion about what can be used for fasteners. Putting PT on top of aluminum adds slightly to that confusion because of the corrosion rules and the laws of dissimilar metals. I don't know the manufacturing process or chemical differences between electro galvanized and hot dipped galvanized. I do see online that there are places in the country that allow, by building code, the use of hot dipped galvanized nails through pressure treated wood. Not electro galvanized, for whatever reason. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,354 #17 Posted February 23, 2020 Here's what I did: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033 #18 Posted February 23, 2020 Know anyone that builds the aluminum framed docks and then adds cedar decking? I see them but don't know how they do it. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #19 Posted February 23, 2020 31 minutes ago, tunahead72 said: What do you mean by "strips of ice and water between the metal and the wood"? I thought I was the only one scratching the 'ol noggin . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,403 #20 Posted February 23, 2020 Hope this helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,871 #21 Posted February 23, 2020 What is on it right now and how well has it held up? Might be looking right at the answer?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,871 #22 Posted February 23, 2020 6 hours ago, Sparky said: Off topic here but just noticed the WVU decal Worked with a bunch of folks from WV.....great people! WVU.....great school! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #23 Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) I have a similar trailer Triton aluminum snowmobile trailer it has marine grade plywood deck the trailer is almost 30 years old - sits outside - still has the original wood deck the trailer has sat near trees where it would accumulate a lot of leaves (which unfortunately due to neglect would sit on the deck too long and turn into mulch - and the wood is still in decent shape ... very good shape except for a few areas where there were large accumulations of wet mulch) Edited February 23, 2020 by tom2p 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #24 Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) stainless fasteners (screws, nuts, bolts, etc) work best for me on products that sit outside worth the extra money quality stainless fasteners - not the crap I often see at the big box stores ... Edited February 23, 2020 by tom2p 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #25 Posted February 23, 2020 I have to say she cleaned up nicely with some aluminum wheel cleaner / Dawn and lots of elbow grease . Time to give the back a break and cool it with a Pure Leaf Raspberry iced tea . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
