Electro 12 a couple findings

[troutbum70 857]

Put a new plug in today took a 2 mile ride half of it up a pretty good hill. Plug got quite black around the edge, tranny pump temp was 141 degrees when I got back. I noticed a tiny bit of ATF bubbling around the fill plug like it had air pressure in it, and did find when the push is in the drive position I can push it a little bit in both directions maybe a little less effort in reverse. So I am thinking acceleration valves need attention, any other thoughts? And I also did find the throttle shaft is sucking air. I have decided to nick name this tractor stinky because the exhaust stinks so bad, which I hope goes away after issues are fixed.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

I can't comment on the transmission question but that plug looks like it might be running just a leeeettle bit rich.

 

 

[troutbum70 857]

I agree but when adjusting the settings that's where it seems to run the best, but with the throttle shaft sucking air it's hard to get it right I am sure. Plus the secondary jet is not sealing properly as I can turn it all the way in and the tractor will spit and sputter but continues to run. 

[tom2p 2,394]

the plug tip / electrode and top of the porcelain is not dark 

 

( sorta / kinda tan ... not tan but some other color )

 

 

[Stepney 2,325]

There is a tiny breather hole in the tranny filler. It shouldn't make any pressure. Locate it and blast with air. Soaking in gasoline can help.

 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

3 hours ago, troutbum63 said:

I agree but when adjusting the settings that's where it seems to run the best, but with the throttle shaft sucking air it's hard to get it right I am sure. Plus the secondary jet is not sealing properly as I can turn it all the way in and the tractor will spit and sputter but continues to run. 

If it's happy there I'd leave it set.

 

 

It may change after you fix the carb.

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, tom2p said:

sorta / kinda tan ... not tan but some other color

 

[troutbum70 857]

Yes I don't understand why just the outside of the plug is so black, when the electrode and all look like a pretty good burn. And I will clean up the filler tube and clean the vent it needed. I may get one of the carbs from Norman and see how that goes. 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

7 hours ago, troutbum63 said:

may get one of the carbs from Norman and see how that goes

Most have good luck with those.

 

I'd be more prone to rebuilding the originals.

 

You can buy 3 or 4 carb kits for the money of a replacement.

 

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Time to rebuild your carb.Remove carb.Take completely apart.Soak all parts in one of those gallon parts cleaning solution for 1 day.Remove parts and rinse with water.Blow out everything with compressed air.Put everything back into the parts cleaner.Repeat these steps 2 or 3 times.I've only had one carburetor that I couldn't get unplugged using this method.Ebinmaine is right about the cost of rebuild kits.I always have several in my spare parts cabinet.When the carb is back on the tractor,use NOTHING but non-ethanol gas.A little bit of SeaFoam doesn't hurt once in a while too.Good luck.

[lynnmor 7,302]

11 hours ago, troutbum63 said:

Yes I don't understand why just the outside of the plug is so black, when the electrode and all look like a pretty good burn. And I will clean up the filler tube and clean the vent it needed. I may get one of the carbs from Norman and see how that goes. 

The perimeter of the plug is about the same temperature as the head and the color of it is a good indication of fuel mixture, but only if you know how to read plugs, do a long run and a quick shut down.  The electrode area runs hotter, plugs have different heat ranges for various applications.  The electrode area needs to run hot enough to burn off deposits, but not so hot that pre-ignition takes place.  To control electrode temperature, plugs have different lengths of the path from the tip to the head.  Unless you have a modified engine, there is no need to change plug numbers, just adjust or repair the carb.

 

My guess is that your idle mixture screw is way off or that circuit has been damaged from over tightening the screw.  Unless the throttle shaft has an extreme amount of wear, there isn't enough air bleeding in to upset the mixture at high speed.  I would start from scratch and set the mixture screws per the manual.

[pfrederi 17,663]

If you can push the tractor with push valve closed (drive position) I would first look at the push valve itself .  Second would be the piston block and slippers for scratches.  How does it operate?  141 temp isn't bad. How far can you push before it stops?? 

[troutbum70 857]

Pfrederi I have no idea how far it could be pushed, I did not want to damage seals or other parts by forcing it to continue pushing. How far might I push it before it would cease to push any further? I am thinking the tranny is sluggish, but that is an uneducated guess as I have never had a hydro before. We have a couple much much newer cub cadets on our old family farm that use to keep the grounds mowed and those buggers move pretty quick, but they have 20 something HP twin cylinder kohlers I believe. So I don't think I could compare my old 1970 WH to them.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

Top speed should be about 6.5 - 7 miles per hour.

[troutbum70 857]

I could probably put an app on my phone or take a GPS along for a ride Eric to check the speed. Thanks had not thought to try that.

[pfrederi 17,663]

Actually should be 7.5 mph. but I am not sure that is a valid measure of condition.

 

I can only push mine for 1-2 feet before they do not want to move.  You aren't going to hurt them pushing them by hand their resistance will stop you ..  You do not want to tow it or push with a machine that can cause damage.

 

If you can push yours any significant distance then push valve or piston block valve plate/slippers would be my top suspect.....

[troutbum70 857]

When pushing by hand the first quarter turn of the tires is easy then it gets tight and have not tried to force it beyond that point. They still roll, so I should continue to push and see if they will lock up completely?  And I have been thinking about carburetors and the throttle shaft precisely, there is no way to seal that shaft at 100 percent do you think? 

[pfrederi 17,663]

Hand push till it stops you.  how far??? Just tried to push one of mine.  It is cold and she has chains on it I physically could not push it more than a 1/4 turn of the wheel.  She is heavily weighted so there is no way I could push hard enough to make the tires slide.   Throttle shaft sealing is pretty good with two of these.

 

 

Edited February 20, 2020 by pfrederi

[oliver2-44 9,679]

You can also get those brass washers from the grey drawers of Hillman parts at you local hardware store.