96 Sierra K2500 Transmission Rebuild

[bc.gold 3,403]

Transmission kaput, still have first and reverse.

 

The 2 / 3 clutch pack is worn out, this is a common problem with the GM 4L60-E transmission, as soon as the snow is gone I'll be pulling the transmission out for a rebuild.

 

The first image new filter, upgrade to Corvette servo, shift kit and all new solenoids. The shift kit will lesson the time it takes for a clutch pack to fully engage, this will keep the transmission running much cooler and probably give a slight increase in fuel mileage.

 

It's advisable to install new solenoids even if the old ones were still working, as the transmission clutch packs began to slip the trans would have been operating at critical temperatures causing the plastic insulation on the wire leads to become brittle.

 

Second image new steels, in the old days would just sand the surfaces to de-glaze then if any had severe heat spots would replace those with new ones.

 

Last image frictions being soaked in ATF fluid, this will pre-lubricate in addition to swell them up so that proper clearances maybe observed. Clutch pack clearances maybe adjusted buy using thinner or thicker steels. It's always advisable to hang onto the old steels until the job is completed as I've often found after market steels thicker than OEM.

 

There are plenty of youtube videos out there showing the complete rebuild, the only difference is than I have made a few simple jigs and a spring compressor needed to remove a snap ring to access one of the clutch pack pistons to replace the seals.

 

If there's interest I'll post picture when I have this transmission on the bench.

 

The friction ,material bonded to the plates is made from paper.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 18, 2020 by bcgold

[JCM 9,130]

Interested to see pictures when you have time. I thought all GM trucks back in those years had the 4L80E transmission in the 2500 Series  ?

[ebinmaine 67,266]

34 minutes ago, JCM said:

Interested to see pictures when you have time. I thought all GM trucks back in those years had the 4L80E transmission in the 2500 Series  ?

I would also be interested in seeing more pictures.

 

Don't quote me on this Jim.. I think the 1/2-ton and 6 lug 3/4 may have had the lighter duty transmission.

 

[JCM 9,130]

In 1989 a good friend of mine ordered a K-2500 Reg cab 7200 GVW with a 5 speed manual that I thought was odd, he could have ordered an 8600 GVW just didn't want to pay the extra $..You may be right on that one Eric I am not sure about the Autos. All the 2500 trucks I had back then were 4L80E trannys and were great trucks.

[Achto 27,502]

I'm chiming in to follow along. I can do engines, standard trannys & just about any thing else on my vehicles. When it comes to auto trannys I call "The Guy" as I know nothing about them.

[WHX?? 48,763]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

1/2-ton and 6 lug 3/4 may have had the lighter duty transmission.

You may be right EB... I believe I have the 4L60 in my '95 2500 which is just considered a heavy half. Any idea how many miles are on that tranny Gold? 

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

I think Eric is right...all my 2500s, including my 98 I have now, have all been equipped with either the 5 speed manual or the 4L80E, but I have never owned one of the lighter duty 6 lug trucks. My ex wife's grandpa does have one of the 6 lug models and his does have the 4L60E in it. 

 

I personally never understood why anyone would want one of the lighter duty models, they always just seemed like an over glorified half ton to me, but then again I thought the same thing of the 99 F250 i had with those oddball 7 lug wheels on it as well

[ebinmaine 67,266]

3 minutes ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

 

I personally never understood why anyone would want one of the lighter duty models, they always just seemed like an over glorified half ton

You are fundamentally correct in that.

 

I was told back in the early 90s that it was related to a few different things.

 

Marketing, on behalf of GM and later Ford. I don't know about  Dodge Ram.

Give a customer more choices and it makes them feel better about what they bought.

 

it was also a way for residents of some states to save money on registration and insurance.

In Massachusetts where I was living at the time it didn't make a lick of difference. When you got the one ton, that was different.

Here in Maine on the other hand, pickup trucks are registered one of two ways. Up to gross 6,500 pounds, passenger car. But if you want to put any load in it at all you have to register by the gross vehicle capacity including the trailer.

GCWR.

You could still have a truck with a decent set of springs and maybe slightly larger brakes but save yourself some money in the long run.

[WHX?? 48,763]

10 minutes ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

over glorified half ton to me,

That's exactly what it is Prof. If I am not mistaken the only diff was rear springs had an extra leaf. 

Back in '95 I knew no better, didn't really need, and couldn't afford the HD 2500 anyway! 

[bc.gold 3,403]

2 hours ago, WHX24 said:

You may be right EB... I believe I have the 4L60 in my '95 2500 which is just considered a heavy half. Any idea how many miles are on that tranny Gold? 

 

Transmission has 310,068 km's on it, sounds impressive until you convert to mile, 192,667. We purchased the truck used.

 

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

it was also a way for residents of some states to save money on registration and insurance.

In Massachusetts where I was living at the time it didn't make a lick of difference. When you got the one ton, that was different.

Here in Maine on the other hand, pickup trucks are registered one of two ways. Up to gross 6,500 pounds, passenger car. But if you want to put any load in it at all you have to register by the gross vehicle capacity including the trailer.

 

Makes me glad I live down here in Oklahoma. Registration on new vehicles can get expensive...but the older they are the cheaper it gets, and it doesn't matter what they are...tags for my 98 2500 and Krystal's 94 F150 both run me $27.50 a year...even when I had my old 62 Ford C600 grain truck the yearly registration on it was only $22.50. Another thing i like is the fact that privately owned trailers are not required to be tagged. 

[Pullstart 62,783]

17 minutes ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

Makes me glad I live down here in Oklahoma. Registration on new vehicles can get expensive...but the older they are the cheaper it gets, and it doesn't matter what they are...tags for my 98 2500 and Krystal's 94 F150 both run me $27.50 a year...even when I had my old 62 Ford C600 grain truck the yearly registration on it was only $22.50. Another thing i like is the fact that privately owned trailers are not required to be tagged. 

 

I need a shell corporation in OK to run my vehicles through!  

[Pullstart 62,783]

4 hours ago, Achto said:

I'm chiming in to follow along. I can do engines, standard trannys & just about any thing else on my vehicles. When it comes to auto trannys I call "The Guy" as I know nothing about them.

 

It’s not all too bad.  Keeping everything in line is key.... but with clutches and steels, it’s like a multi step safe to crack a code.  Line it up all you want on the bench, getting it together in the case is... we’ll just say it’s fun.

 

With the electronic transmissions, I learned that unless there’s a break like in the post below... it’s best to replace all the solenoids in the valve body.  Speaking of valve body, there are a handful of check balls.  Taking a picture of where they came from and using Vaseline to hold them in place during reassembly is a great trick too.  

 

 

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

I've never been brave enough to try and tackle an auto on my own. Rebuilt enough NV4500s I could almost do it blindfolded, but have always taken my autos to a specialized transmission shop down in Amarillo TX. Maybe someday I'll get brave and try to tackle one

[pfrederi 17,663]

Auto tranny failure...Goodbye truck  At that point what dies next....

[Pullstart 62,783]

5 minutes ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

I've never been brave enough to try and tackle an auto on my own. Rebuilt enough NV4500s I could almost do it blindfolded, but have always taken my autos to a specialized transmission shop down in Amarillo TX. Maybe someday I'll get brave and try to tackle one

 

Next one Bryce, I believe in you!  They are sloppy when you take them apart and the tolerances are so sloppy they would surprise you!  Everything moves around so much in there, it’s no wonder they are called slush boxes!

[bc.gold 3,403]

17 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

Next one Bryce, I believe in you!  They are sloppy when you take them apart and the tolerances are so sloppy they would surprise you!  Everything moves around so much in there, it’s no wonder they are called slush boxes!

 

Checker cab had it figured out the early models used a general motors small block with the Ford 3 speed cast iron FMX then in later years the Chevy 350 with a turbo 400.

 

Both of these transmission used a center support to keep things aligned.

 

IMO the hardest part of doing an overhaul is the remove and replace into the vehicle.

 

Once the transmission is sitting on the bench with the torque converter and front pump bolts removed, two of the pumps holes are slightly oversized and threaded to insert a slide hammer to remove the pump. After the pump is removed your laughing.

Edited February 18, 2020 by bcgold

[WHX?? 48,763]

1 hour ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

94 F150 both run me $27.50 a year.

That's a $90 clipping here 

[bc.gold 3,403]

Some tools I made, the center one with the grab hooks fit into the holes on the input drum, missing from the image is the cup  which is placed on top of the spring pack, that needs to be compressed in order to remove a snap ring.

 

The spring pack returns the piston to rest when it's no longer required for this clutch pack to be applied. Don't ask what gear is being applied as I do not know. I'm just replacing the parts which show obvious wear and the cause for their failure which is heat hardened seals.

 

The jig front right will be used to compress a spring pack located inside the rear of the transmission case, threaded ready rod inserted from the rear of the case will do the compression.

 

The jig with the  three prongs was used to compress an 800 psi spring used on the Dodge overdrive package using the bench press.

 

 

 

[bc.gold 3,403]

I remember when I could purchase a full rebuild kit for $35.00 and did bench builds for $225.00.

 

My buddy's son James brought me a transmission to rebuild, then about six months later he had another one, only this time I told him to come early in the day as it was he who would be doing the rebuild.

 

That was 50 years ago, I've never seen another transmission from James as he was building his own.

 

My first transmission was the Ford FMX and could not figure out how it all came apart then when an opportunity came about I offered to work for free at a newly opened Mr. Transmission shop which was short on cash and needed to extra hand.

 

The first six months was with out pay.

 

Edited February 18, 2020 by bcgold

[ZXT 2,401]

I'll be following along! I have a 4l60E that stripped the reaction sun shell. I've been inside of 3 Chrysler 727 transmissions, but never a Chevy. Are you replacing the sun shell on yours? If you aren't, I would - that's a huge failure point on 60's. You lose 2nd, 4th and reverse when it goes, IIRC. 

12 hours ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

I thought the same thing of the 99 F250 i had with those oddball 7 lug wheels on it as well

Exactly what they were, especially since they used the half ton body! I believe all of the 3/4 ton vans of the period were 7 lug as well.

11 hours ago, ProfessorBurden753 said:

tags for my 98 2500 and Krystal's 94 F150 both run me $27.50 a year...

Down here, registration for my 95 Ram 2500 V10, which has an 8800 GVW, is $79. Inspection is $7 now since it's 25 years old. Inspection would otherwise be $30ish. Sounds like y'all are getting a better deal until you remember you have a silly state income tax!  

10 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Auto tranny failure...Goodbye truck  At that point what dies next....

Jeez, a bit harsh to toss something because it needs repair, don't you think? I can imagine that's how so many of our WH's got to be in their neglected states. Rather than fix it, they sent it out to pasture. 

 

You might be surprised how much life his truck has left in it. It's a SBC I assume, so with regular maintenance it will probably last another 150k miles before a major failure. After he's done, he'll have a couple hundred dollars in the transmission max, and the truck will definitely increase in value more than his investment. 

 

If a vehicle has been good to me, I'll definitely put an engine and/or trans in it when the time comes. My current work truck has 230k on it. Neither the engine or trans have ever been out of it - and It has the transmission model that gave Dodge the reputation for having "bad" transmissions in their Diesel trucks. Mine isn't a diesel, but the V10 had 135HP and 50 Ft lbs of torque on the Cummins. I did pick up a spare engine with 93k miles on it a few weeks ago for $100. Don't need it now, but for that price..

[bc.gold 3,403]

ZXT thanks for bringing this to my attention, the truck previously belonged to my other half used primarily as a grocery getter. She recently gifted the truck to me along with the transmission parts previously purchased. Now that I'll be using the truck I'm going to take  your suggestion to replace the sun shell.

 

Here's an image of the sun shell ZXT is referring to, they're infamous reputation is having the internal spline strip out.

 

Anyone interested in down loading the shop manual, this link is live for the next 30 days there's two files in this offline folder.

https://tinyurl.com/vxvzxs2

 

 

 

 

Edited February 19, 2020 by bcgold

[bc.gold 3,403]

Before I realized they made transmission jacks, I cut the heads off of a pair of long 3/8" bolts, rounded the end then cut in a slot for a screwdriver.

 

Screw these into the engine block, make sure your transmission once its installed does not hinder the removal of these dowels. Laying on my back head facing towards the engine would work the transmission onto my chest then lift it onto the dowels. While holding the tail shaft end suspended with a free knee install a couple of bell housing bolts. The take a beer break.

 

To secure the torque converter in place during transmission installation use a 7/16 combination wrench, the open end of the wrench is placed over the converter then secured into place with a longer bolt screwed into one of the dust cover threaded holes.

 

The heaviest transmission I has ever installed without a jack, cast iron power glide into a 59 Pontiac rag.

 

Now at 70 have a transmission jack.

[Pullstart 62,783]

4 hours ago, bcgold said:

Before I realized they made transmission jacks, I cut the heads off of a pair of long 3/8" bolts, rounded the end then cut in a slot for a screwdriver.

 

Screw these into the engine block, make sure your transmission once its installed does not hinder the removal of these dowels. Laying on my back head facing towards the engine would work the transmission onto my chest then lift it onto the dowels. While holding the tail shaft end suspended with a free knee install a couple of bell housing bolts. The take a beer break.

 

To secure the torque converter in place during transmission installation use a 7/16 combination wrench, the open end of the wrench is placed over the converter then secured into place with a longer bolt screwed into one of the dust cover threaded holes.

 

The heaviest transmission I has ever installed without a jack, cast iron power glide into a 59 Pontiac rag.

 

Now at 70 have a transmission jack.

 

I’ve pulled a few in the bone yard that way too.  Imagine the look on Joe Blow’s face when I come squirming out from a vehicle with a 700R4 on my chest... it’s happened 

 

The local U pull it has gantry cranes with chainfalls for use and they roll around the rough yard on donut tires affixed to vehicle hubs.  They work great for pulling, but not so great for transport.  To move an engine from the yard to the office to a vehicle, you’re only allowed a wheelbarrow.

 

Transporting a SBC from that NW corner of the yard to the office will get the best of ya... but it’s hard to beat their prices!  They are essentially a scrap yard.  They allow you to pull parts and exchange your core (for scrap) or pay set core prices (to get their scrap dollars anyway).  After the vehicle is in the yard for a set amount of time, it and the whole row it’s in is pulled for the crusher and replenished.  It’s a pretty smooth operation, but last time I checked their paying price, it was better for me to bring a vehicle straight to scrap just a couple miles up the road than it was to bring to them...

[bc.gold 3,403]

Since the rebuilt kit has already been purchased I'll continue with the overhaul, maybe get lucky and find a buyer. I've decided not to go through all the necessary work to have this truck safetyed.

 

Instead I've purchased a 97 Ram 4X4 Auto with the V8 Magnum, decent tires, sprayed in box liner and very little rust for $1,000.00 Canadian.