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Psychonova68

Commando 8 transmission help

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Psychonova68

I just found the lengths on atoztractor.com

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Psychonova68

Looking at the fitment of my current axles and hubs, I think they'll be fine. Still waiting on wheel horse parts and more to get back to me. Will order some new keys.

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ebinmaine
12 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said:

Will order some new keys

What kind do you need?

 

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Psychonova68

Can't find the part number, but I should be able to find them at the hardware store. The woodruff keys for the axle shafts though, there's a little play in them.

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Psychonova68

I ordered a new cylindrical spring from A-Z, I just noticed that the spring has wear marks from the pinions and it doesn't hold all of the pinions very well.  Anybody know if I can just stretch it out a little? I tried, but it's pretty stiff.  I was searching for something conical shaped that I could drive through it so I can hold it in the stretched state to try and reform it.  Could I heat it up and cool it to get it to retain the larger size?

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Psychonova68 said:

Can't find the part number, but I should be able to find them at the hardware store. The woodruff keys for the axle shafts though, there's a little play in them.

I've not tried it yet but I understand one can buy a next size up key and grind it to fit tightly.

 

 

 

47 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said:

Could I heat it up and cool it to get it to retain the larger size

Heating and cooling springs is touchy and must be done close to perfect.

 

I'd wait for either a very good used one from A-Z or a new one from Wheelhorse parts and more.

 

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953 nut
8 hours ago, Psychonova68 said:

Could I heat it up and cool it to get it to retain the larger size?

Heating a spring will make itna useless piece of scrap metal.

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Psychonova68

What's the easiest way to get the needle bearings out of the case? Can they be pressed or punched out?

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Psychonova68 said:

What's the easiest way to get the needle bearings out of the case? Can they be pressed or punched out?

Assuming you're talking about the wheel bearings that are at the outside...

I've found that my easiest way is to find something just smaller then the inside diameter of the case. Such as a socket. Put an extension on it and it gives you a nice even surface to tap those from the outside in.

 

Others will likely chimed in with different ways of doing it as well.

 

 

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Psychonova68

Thx. Waiting on my rebuild kit from wheel horse parts and more

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ebinmaine

Are you replacing the carrier roller bearings or were those okay?

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pfrederi
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Are you replacing the carrier roller bearings or were those okay?

 

Need to be careful in describing the inner bearings.  WH used two types.  most common is a Ball bearing (#1533)  but in some years (I guess when they didn't have any 1533s) the used a straight Needle / Roller bearing.  #8048

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Psychonova68

I'm replacing all of the bearings because it was cheaper to buy the whole kit than individually buying about half of them. I got the axle bearings out with ease (2 1533s and 2 needles). But the bearings I was referring to are the ones that you can see an indent on the outside of the case. I wasn't sure if I could punch them out.

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stevasaurus

Those are the cap bearings.  They are one piece and treat them the same as the regular needle bearings.  They are actually easier to punch out.  When you put in the new cap bearings, do it from the out side of the case and tap in until flush.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  Some cap bearings in this picture.

 

702 transmission 017.jpg

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pfrederi
47 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said:

I'm replacing all of the bearings because it was cheaper to buy the whole kit than individually buying about half of them. I got the axle bearings out with ease (2 1533s and 2 needles). But the bearings I was referring to are the ones that you can see an indent on the outside of the case. I wasn't sure if I could punch them out.

 I drive them out from the inside using a socket and/or a washer that fits the  bearing lip but smaller than the hole in the case.

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Psychonova68

Does the long axle side go in the shallow side of the case? Just want to make sure. Also any advice on installing the axle seals, I tried installing one and messed it up.

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Psychonova68

Do I need to seat the bearings deeper before placing the seals in?

IMG_20200225_193225334.jpg

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, Psychonova68 said:

Does the long axle side go in the shallow side of the case? Just want to make sure. Also any advice on installing the axle seals, I tried installing one and messed it up.

 

I can't remember which side the long or short axle goes in and I don't want to mislead you so I'd have to recommend going and watching Steve's video.

The first time I tore into a transmission I probably watched that video about 647 times.... Give or take a bit.

 

 

The outer bearing should be sitting "below flush"  about the same amount as the thickness of the seal.

 

 

Driving the seal can be very challenging.

They can be tough to hold in place and keep lined up while you are putting it in. If installing it without the axle in place you can use a piece of 2 x 4 or something to help keep it straight.

 

I've only installed them with the axle. That makes it more difficult to start straight but the axle helps keep it in position.

 

I do normally keep several of those seals on hand so I always have extras.

 

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Psychonova68

Does the cup side of the seal go toward the differential or the hub?

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WHX??

Cup side goes towards the differential. 

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Psychonova68

That's what I thought, was watching YouTube videos and saw a later wheelhorse, where the guy put it in cup side out.

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ebinmaine

I'm no mechanic by any means so don't take this as law. My general mechanical experience has taught me that the cup side pretty much always goes toward the fluid you are trying to contain.

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ebinmaine

That said, one of our tricks from when I was younger to move the location of a wear groove in the shaft was to flip the seal around.

 

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Psychonova68

I got it all back together finally, gotta find the setscrew for the shifter to do a final function check. I got the detent ball in one go, I'm not sure if it's ill-advised, but what I did is pump the shifter post hole full of grease and it acted as a blanket for the BB, making it easy to compress the spring and BB in one go. I was pressing pretty hard on the post though, so I when pulled the rod out the side I pinched my finger.

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Psychonova68

When I first started disassembling everything one of the axles stuck out of the hub about 1/2-3/4". So my question is should both hubs be the same distance from centerline?

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