pfrederi 17,663 #26 Posted February 6, 2020 Take a break have an adult beverage and watch this video 1 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #27 Posted February 6, 2020 I don't see a bolt or anything on the brake, what am I missing? And should I try to get the pulley off from the outside, the hubs weren't too bad? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #28 Posted February 6, 2020 Your brake with a round shaft and keyway "should" have had a snap ring. Looks like it is gone can you see the groove on the shaft it would have been in??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #29 Posted February 6, 2020 I took it off, didn't realize that's all that holds it on. On another note I realized that the tractor doesn't say commando 8 anywhere on it, but that's what it was advertised as and that's what the owners manual that I have says. Hood says wheel horse six speed and it does have a plate that looks original that shows high and low in front of the shifters. Serial number plate says model # T 867 and serial#367714. So any idea what model this is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #30 Posted February 6, 2020 11 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said: model # T 867 That's literally it right there. You have a 1967 8 horse, 6-speed. It's Trina's favorite tractor of our herd. Arguably one of the absolute favorites of many people on this site. If that transmission is original and it likely is, you should have a limited-slip rear differential. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #31 Posted February 6, 2020 You got yourself a nice one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #32 Posted February 6, 2020 This whole process ever since I started researching old tractors has been a great learning experience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #33 Posted February 6, 2020 The hi lo shift lever looks to be held on with a roll pin, any advice? I have had a lot of bad luck with roll pins with guns. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #34 Posted February 6, 2020 1 minute ago, Psychonova68 said: The hi lo shift lever looks to be held on with a roll pin, any advice? I have had a lot of bad luck with roll pins with guns. Leave it set. No need to remove it unless removing the specific gears it's attached to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #35 Posted February 6, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said: The hi lo shift lever looks to be held on with a roll pin, any advice? I have had a lot of bad luck with roll pins with guns. It is a roll pin. a true roll pin punch is your best weapon.... Edited February 6, 2020 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,783 #36 Posted February 6, 2020 Great work getting those what someone might call welds off! Was the left or right axle sticking out past the hub? I don’t believe it should be offset or stick out so far like that... @stevasaurus are we to expect any issues in the diff? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,706 #37 Posted February 6, 2020 That roll pin should pop right out. I think you have a 4 leaf clover in your pocket to get all that stuff off while I was reading this thread. Make sure you have the shallow side (right side) down when you open up the case. I use an old 1" wood chisel and a pry bar to separate the case. Find the right space and tap the chisel. You might want to file any burrs that are on the ends of the axles, brake and input shafts so the case can slip by the bearings. Trust me, it does not take much to keep from lifting off the case half. AAHH!! That's right, you have a 4 leaf clover. Pullstart, I don't think I would expect any issues with that transmission. I would be interested to know how the oil looked when drained though. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,706 #38 Posted February 6, 2020 While that #5091 thread will walk you through the process, this thread is the same as your transmission...#5060. Be careful with the differential, you should have aluminum end plates on the differential. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #39 Posted February 8, 2020 I got the transmission opened up and have starting taking the gears out. My question is how do I tell if the bearings are bad? I noticed one of the axle bearings is missing some needles so that'll definitely get replaced, but from the rough inspection I've done so far most of them look fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #40 Posted February 8, 2020 Clean em up and do a basic eyeball inspection just like you did to the wheel bearing. Should replace both. Others will chime in. Maybe with actual specs. Give a list of needed parts when you can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #41 Posted February 8, 2020 Will do, thank you very much. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #42 Posted February 8, 2020 (edited) How do the shift forks and associated gears come out? How does the detent ball plug come out, I think that's where my problem is. Edited February 8, 2020 by Psychonova68 further thoughts after looking at schematic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #43 Posted February 8, 2020 8 hours ago, Psychonova68 said: How do the shift forks and associated gears come out? How does the detent ball plug come out, I think that's where my problem is. I can't remember if that was a well plug/freeze plug on mine or if they screwed out ... Steve's videos may show it. I can check in the shop later this morning. Be VERY aware of the position of those during disassembly. Those have been known to fly across the room and land in the most inconvenient non accessible place within a 40 mile radius. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,679 #44 Posted February 8, 2020 If the shifter worked fine before you took it apart, and the rails aren't rusty, you might try cleaning up the shift forks and rails in place. Getting the detent balls back in place on the rails can involve lots of frustration and losing the little balls (which you can get at the hardware store). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,706 #45 Posted February 8, 2020 You want Section III in this manual. It does a nice job of explaining the process... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #46 Posted February 8, 2020 I can't seem to shift either fork much, I can lift the R &1 fork a little, but I can't push the 2&3 fork down to put it in neutral and start pulling the forks out. 1 of the detents on the R&1 fork should be engaged, but I don't see what's keeping me from pulling it out. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #47 Posted February 9, 2020 I didn't get it looking how the detent balls come out the end. Were you able to find them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #48 Posted February 9, 2020 I got it, I didn't realize I had to allow the shaft, I think it's the input shaft to go down. When I picked the case up and repositioned it, it allowed me to shift it into neutral and pull the forks out. The BBs just fell into the grease pool in the bottom, made sure to have my finger over the hole so they couldn't fly out. Just have to clean all the old oil out and inspect it now. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psychonova68 36 #49 Posted February 9, 2020 Is there any way I can test the limited slip differential without disassembling it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,266 #50 Posted February 9, 2020 8 hours ago, Psychonova68 said: Is there any way I can test the limited slip differential without disassembling it? @stevasaurus @pfrederi @Racinbob @953 nut Good question for one the more experienced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
