JoeM 7,871 #26 Posted February 3, 2020 On 2/1/2020 at 6:36 AM, 953 nut said: A set of Acceleration Valve Springs will probably make a BIG difference 953, school me on your thoughts of needing AVS's. Are they too stiff and not enough slip? Just curious, thanks, Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #27 Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) My thoughts #1 Both Wheel-a -matic and hydro gear diagnostic charts point to Acceleration valves as potential problems in loss of power situations. # 2 Failure to seat properly is going to bleed off pressure #3 Mangled acceleration valve springs are all too common (so much so that Lowell is working on getting them reproduced.) Edited February 3, 2020 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,871 #28 Posted February 4, 2020 On 2/3/2020 at 2:15 PM, pfrederi said: Both Wheel-a -matic and hydro gear diagnostic charts point to Acceleration valves as potential problems in loss of power situations I could see if the hydro was loosing power but I think he is talking about the engine losing power. I got the hydro thing figured out, just thought there was something different. thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,680 #29 Posted February 4, 2020 On 2/1/2020 at 10:25 PM, troutbum63 said: Okay and I don't have a leak down tester, so will do old fashioned way. By applying 30 or40 lbs of air at tdc and listen at exhaust, carb with throttle open, and oil fill tube for any air leaking by. Or hold a feather at those points to see any air leaking by. When you do a leak down test, I’ve learned it’s best to run the engine to warm it up to operating temperature. That way everything has expanded and tightened to normal operation. A cold leak down test can give false information 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,680 #30 Posted February 4, 2020 On 2/1/2020 at 10:25 PM, troutbum63 said: Okay and I don't have a leak down tester, so will do old fashioned way. By applying 30 or40 lbs of air at tdc and listen at exhaust, carb with throttle open, and oil fill tube for any air leaking by. Or hold a feather at those points to see any air leaking by. When you do a leak down test, I’ve learned it’s best to run the engine to warm it up to operating temperature. That way everything has expanded and tightened to normal operation. A cold leak down test can give false information Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,069 #31 Posted February 5, 2020 4 hours ago, TractorJunkie said: I could see if the hydro was loosing power but I think he is talking about the engine losing power. I got the hydro thing figured out, just thought there was something different. thanks A hydro with compromised acceleration springs will allow the forward and reverse valves to remain partially open at the same time. This will result as sluggish operation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #32 Posted February 5, 2020 Oliver that is probably a very good point. Am going to do cold first and then warm it up good and test again. Stand by for results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites