Tonyp 284 #1 Posted January 25, 2020 (edited) C Series, 300 Series and I think the the 400 Series as well > its a 5/8 x 82 inch. Today I used the Stens "TrueBlue" for the C81 which I had in the parts draw. , Tractor Supply sells the Blue Kevlar Huskee , same belt for $25. I put one of these on my 310-8 probably 10 years ago, maybe longer . Its still performing strong. I didn't take photos but here's the steps, real easy, except for ONE location, the clutch pulley. This is for an 8 Speed tractor. I'm writing this more for me so the next time I can look it up . A Power Driver and a couple of sockets makes this task about as easy as pie ! You can literally do this inside of an hour. I took longer as I was cleaning and lubing along the way. And drinking coffee. Take pictures of parts and screws if need be, but this is really quite simple. I did take the seat and rear fender off but you really don't need to. Its not a bad idea to remove these as cleaning the tranny area is always a good thing while it is accessible. Removing them does allow full access to the rear pulley on the tranny. Also on the LEFT side clean and lube the threaded clutch adjust ROD that feeds the clutch pedal .Check the spring as well. Adjustment may be necessary later Either remove the shifter cover or just the TWO right side Phillips screws which screw into the right side panel Remove the Power Take off assy. The drive belt sits on the inside pulley right at the engine remove the right side cover , one screw at the bottom center at the foot rest and two screws at the front of the cover secured to the frame. remove the right side foot rest , two screws from underneath. The entire Drive Belt and Clutch pulley is now in full view. The Clutch Pulley arm is welded so be careful not to bend it outward when removing the Pulley. It can easily bend outward . There is a screwed on small bracket which strikes the ON/OFF switch ( forward of the Clutch Pulley arm) it looks like a small dimple. This bracket strikes the switch when the Clutch is engaged and allows starting the tractor. OF course we can disengage the switch all together. To keep slack on the belt, two ways to do this, remove the spring at the adjustable rod going to the clutch pedal or push the clutch pedal full forward and secure it so it doesn't come BACK. This is what I did. Here is the only part of the process which can be deemed as " why did they do it this way ":. We have to remove the Clutch Pulley on the Clutch Arm so the V- Belt can slide into the Pulley underneath the Belt Guide which is WELDED onto the Clutch arm. The pulley bolt is removed from the outside and there is barely enough room for an open end wrench to fit behind the pulley to grab the NUT. IF the clutch arm happenes to pull outward, bent, its ok, bend it back gently , we can also adjust the switch striker bracket if need be, Its not a big deal. . Once the clutch pulley is removed, inspect it, check the bearings, lube it. By now the old belt can be fully removed and the new belt can be placed over each of the pulleys, rear and front. Now is the crazy part reinstall the clutch pulley with the belt installed into the V but under the belt guide on the clutch arm. Secure the bolt and get that open end wrench to hold the nut at the back. THIS should have been a welded NUT on the backside. Release the Clutch Pedal from being full forward. Inspect. Make sure when the clutch is depressed the striker plate is actually hitting the small switch directly in front of the clutch pulley . Make sure the clutch pulley and rear tranny pulley are aligned Put it all back together, Don't forget there are 3 factory switches which will prevent the Tractor from starting. , Seat Switch, Clutch Switch and Power Take Off switch. Start the tractor and check the clutch action , maybe adjust that clutch rod which is at the bottom of the Clutch Pedal, remember we cleaned it at the other end and lubed it, a few turns one way or the other and all should be good. By the way, it is possible to get extra life out of a stretched Drive Belt by adjusting that Clutch Rod , thus tightening the BELT at the Clutch.Pulley, MAYBE. Good luck ! Edited January 26, 2020 by Tonyp 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,771 #2 Posted January 25, 2020 12 minutes ago, Tonyp said: here's the steps, real easy, Wow, I've changed several drive belts, never knew how much work it was until I read your write-up. I need to take a nap to recover from it! 2 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 284 #3 Posted January 25, 2020 (edited) Ha ! Funny, it seems like a lot but if you've been there done that, it really is not a big deal, just that stinkin Clutch Pulley, it takes more time to do that than almost the whole job ! This is only the 2nd time I've ever changed one, first was a 310-8 about 10 years ago and then today, the C81 which I have only had for a year or two. . Its probably the original belt for all I know. The belt didn't break it was just stretched, it was slipping. . I decided to change it rather than adjust the clutch rod for more tension. . It was inevitable. When I changed the 310 belt , it broke I now have the ref on the C81 drive belt. This C81 has a Johnny Bucket on the front and 50 Pounds sitting on the hitch. I'm sure the Drive Belt loves it ! This machine gets a workout, I use it for multiple chores regularly . Firewood, Gravel, Soil , Mulch, Leaves..whatever I can think of so I don't have to carry it ! Edited January 25, 2020 by Tonyp 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,329 #4 Posted January 26, 2020 Drive belt "stretch" is minimal. They appear to "get longer" by the belt sides wearing down and the belt sliding deeper into the pulleys. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,721 #5 Posted January 26, 2020 TONYP, liked your detail belt swap info, especially liked the concept ( OF LUBING POINTS AS YOU GO ALONG ) thats how you do things . look , check function, repair / replace, IMPROVE , without consent ! admittedly i am a lubrication nut , and i think i could relate you to the same problem, imaging wanting to make mechanical linkage function smoothly ? you want terrifying ? change your linkage end to a heim joint , i have them at every angular leverage end , pto, clutch rod, steering ends, snow plow linkage . keep it slick, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
