Shuboxlover 478 #1 Posted January 22, 2020 I'm hoping to get some help tonight for my 2 Stage snow blower on my 520-H. I was out blowing snow tonight and noticed the blower was louder than normal. The snow is REALLY wet and heavy so I thought that might be the reason. I stopped and checked things out after a bit and after I took the cover off the top I realized the chain was VERY loose. It looks even worse in person than it does in the picture. Some of the rollers even look separated, has anyone ever seen that? Do you think it's just a worn chain or do you think I have something else going on? So, I have a few questions. 1.) What size of chain is it? 2.) Has anyone replaced this on their blower? if so... 3.) Does anyone have any advice on doing this? 4.) Does the blower need to come off the tractor? Any other pertinent information would be GREATLY appreciated. I'd like to tackle this tomorrow when I get home from work if possible as they are calling for more snow tonight/tomorow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,985 #2 Posted January 22, 2020 The chain size is #40 roller chain. It definitely should be replaced. You can buy a 10ft length at Tractor Supply if you have one close by. You will have to shorten the chain. There should be a tensioner under the chain. The first models used a wood block but that was then upgraded to a nylon block. it's held by a metal bracket. Some of us go farther and use an idler sprocket. Mine had a worn chain. Then kept destroying chains and they looked like yours. Finally got a good look at it to find out what was going wrong and the small sprocket was also worn. The sprocket teeth looked like shark fins and would push the chain out of the grooves because of the curve on the teeth.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,985 #3 Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) You don't need to remove the blower to change the chain Find the master link on chain. It will be the only one with a clip on the outside of that link. Remove the clip, then you can remove the master link which separates the chain. Count the links in the old chain, now count the links in the new chain and mark it. You'll need to grind off the rivet holding the chain links to separate the links to the new length. Loop the new chain on to the sprockets with one end on the small sprocket. This will help hold the chain and line it up for installing the new master link. The new chain will come with one master link but they are cheap so buy a bag of 2 or 3 while you are there buying the chain. Look for the tensioner pieces when you have the old chain off. you should easily be able to see it or at minimum the bracket should still be there. This may help too Edited January 22, 2020 by wallfish 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,302 #4 Posted January 23, 2020 It is best to replace worn sprockets when fitting a new chain. It appears that you haven’t used much chain oil, I apply oil after every use. Special chain oil in a spray can is convenient or use bar & chain oil for a chainsaw. Keep the chain adjusted with a new adjuster block, they wear rather fast. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 478 #5 Posted January 23, 2020 Great info everyone....THANKS!!!!!!!!!1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,508 #6 Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) All great advise given above . One more important note of advise. When you install the connector link clip, the open end of it should face away from the direction of rotation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1YJ8Hf-RIk Edited January 23, 2020 by Achto 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,025 #7 Posted January 23, 2020 Dan. This old Ed dog just learned a new trick. makes sense or cents or scents. Now if I can just remember to do it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,130 #8 Posted January 23, 2020 @Achto Dan, growing up on dirt bikes since the young age of 13 and racing motocross in the mid 70's I was taught to do that with the master link clip so it would not accidentally open up, good call. In Southwick Mass there is a wonderfull Motocross facility with a jump called the spectator jump in front of the bleachers. Would hate to have that clip come off that chain while launching off that jump and having no power to the rear wheel when landing, would not be a very good outcome. Thanks 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #9 Posted January 23, 2020 Here's what the tension blocks looked like... As well as an idler sprocket for upgrade... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,583 #10 Posted January 23, 2020 not a mention of LUBRICATION , these are moving metal parts , a purpose lube like CHAIN And cable fluid , was made for open gear drives , yet the average w/h i see is starved for the correct lubrication. i never let my blower gear/chain drive area dry out , and it works without effort . just my own experience , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #11 Posted January 23, 2020 2 hours ago, peter lena said: not a mention of LUBRICATION , these are moving metal parts , a purpose lube like CHAIN And cable fluid , was made for open gear drives , yet the average w/h i see is starved for the correct lubrication. i never let my blower gear/chain drive area dry out , and it works without effort . just my own experience , pete Hhmmm ... 15 hours ago, lynnmor said: It is best to replace worn sprockets when fitting a new chain. It appears that you haven’t used much chain oil, I apply oil after every use. Special chain oil in a spray can is convenient or use bar & chain oil for a chainsaw. Keep the chain adjusted with a new adjuster block, they wear rather fast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
