Plowing weight. Is that legit?

[Pullstart 62,783]

On 1/31/2020 at 10:51 AM, wheelwhores said:

another rim related question.  currently i am running 26x10-12(i think these might be ATV tires) and 18x8.5x8.   Which of those numbers is the rim size and which is height and width?  Also,  are all WH rims interchangable.  Meaning if i buy say a parts machine 310-a will the rims fit my c175 front and back?

 

Most all 5 lug patterns are the same wheel, but some random smaller models have little center hub holes.  For example, the Commando 800 I pulled apart has smaller center hubs than normal and those wheels would bolt up to a larger hub, but not seat properly.

 

You can sort of see the difference in these two pics.. the whole roller tractor is the small hubs one.

 

then there are 6 lug tractors (D series, C-195, etc) and some 4 lugs (953, 1054, I’d imagine GT-14 but don’t know off hand...)

[8ntruck 6,991]

On 2/3/2020 at 11:24 PM, bcgold said:

 

My reversible rim has a bolt pattern to suit  the side being used.

 

 

BCGOLD - I'd like to see a picture of the bolt circle from the other side, if you ever have an occasion to take one off of the tractor.  It will be interesting to see what sort of mount pad arrangement is on the or her side.

[bc.gold 3,403]

2 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

BCGOLD - I'd like to see a picture of the bolt circle from the other side, if you ever have an occasion to take one off of the tractor.  It will be interesting to see what sort of mount pad arrangement is on the or her side.

 

The center came from a damaged implement rim that I found at the landfill metal pile.

 

The dual use bolt pattern throw me for a loop when it came time to weld in the center I had to look at the other wheel on the tractor to make sure I was installing the right side facing out.

 

The nice part, did not have to remove the liquid fill or the tire to make this repair.

 

This Allis 720 has the wide boots on the rear with what looks to be a wide turf on the front, compared to the Simplicity which has Ag's on the rear much better traction and the tri-rib farm style tires up from make steering super easy.

 

Even with that heavy snow thrower mounted on the front just the palm of my hand on the rim of the steering wheel is all it takes to steer the tractor.

 

Previous owners can be a bit dense, trying to fit another Onan different model, they cut a huge chunk out of the front axle and still could not make the engine fit. And the old engine laid bare to the elements was going to be an expensive rebuild.

 

Two years later I had found a decent running CCKB Onan, first year blowing snow fell in love with the Simplicity 9020 but always had it in the back of my mind that torch job.

 

Then this Allis Chalmers 720 becomes available, blown hydro and the price was very reasonable, now that I've had a chance to use both tractors and now know what items and parts will make up the best package.

 

The Simplicity becomes a parts donor.

 

If the weather keeps warming up as it has been, you'll soon have your pictures of the other side of that rim.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2020 by bcgold

[wheelwhores 107]

Here is an update.  The juice is flowing.  24 gallons of rimguard cost me about $90.  (5)-5gallon buckets we free from a buddy who sells paint for SW.  Here are the other parts which totaled around $23.  I basically put the same tuben inside the large one, then weighted one end and dropped into a full bucket raised up high, taking car to keep the smaller tube our of the RG so air could move out of it.  Then it was a strong suck on the tube and a quick clamp on tube once the siphon started.  Little tube was passed inside the valve stem with the core out, and the large tube went over top of the threads with a hose clamp to seal it.  Clamp off and about 3 hours later one tire is filled.  Almost no mess, cheap and very effective...albeit slow.   Spent the down time welding up and grinder some rear weight brackets which I will post this weekend after paint.

[wheelwhores 107]

one of the two plow bracket that ties the a frame to the axle rotated open and dropped the plow down enough to wiggle free the other connection point while plowing, i didn't notice it until it was too late! , the a frame pushed back into the tire rim shearing off one of the brass valve stems spraying about a half to a full gallon of rim guard all over the tractor, house, and driveway......ugh.  fortunately some quick action and a spare stem saved the day and i was able to get the tire off, emptied or rim guard enough to bread bead in a spot and get the new valve stem in and get the driveway done the same day.  We had just gotten 6-8" of snow and i was so excited to try the weighted tires out that the only thing i can thing may have happened is that i hit one of the a-frame releases with the floor jack while installing the tires.   It depressed the **** out of me for a couple of hours, but in the long run all was well....no major damage.  That timre was refilled last night and will go on this evening.

 

On a side note, if anyone wants to do rimguard in the twin cities (MN) metro area, either themselves or pay me to do it PM me, i have a good setup that takes a while to work, but does the job pretty cleanly and with no moving parts, just buckets and hose.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

Pain in the butt to go through stuff like that but I'm glad to hear you're back up and running.

 

Some of those plow frame holders I have a hole that you can put a pin through.

 

on my cinnamon horse I do not have those locking pins because I made the bracket myself and did not put enough meat there. Ended up just having to tighten up the bolt that holds those levers in place.

 

 

[wheelwhores 107]

yeah, that has already been added to my to do list, i'm surprised they were designed that way to begin with....

[ebinmaine 67,266]

I have both. The later-model ones have the pinhole. The very early ones do not.

 

And of course the one I made I didn't have sense enough to put them in....

[C-85 681]

This is what I did for weight and now this little 8hp tractor is nearly like a bulldozer!

 

We put so much weight on the back I had to add some to the front too!

 

C-85

[wheelwhores 107]

I have the rear wheel weights all done, just need to get them on there, we are so close to the end of the plowing season that i may hold off until i can get the front wheel weights figure out as steering not traction is becoming my biggest problem.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

12 minutes ago, wheelwhores said:

I have the rear wheel weights all done, just need to get them on there, we are so close to the end of the plowing season that i may hold off until i can get the front wheel weights figure out as steering not traction is becoming my biggest problem.

my front axle is very heavy because I have oversized tires with rim guard in them.

 

I've not tried it yet but you can rap number 40 chain around the tire while it's partially deflated, fill it up, and it forms a nice solid metal rib

[wheelwhores 107]

interesting itea with the roller chain.  i need to get new front tires anyway becuase these are shot/cracked to beat hell and no tread, so i'm weighing the option of ribbed tires versus turf tires before i put the rim guard in em.

[wheelwhores 107]

i might see if my local bike shop has a bunch of old chains to recylce for nothing.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

5 minutes ago, wheelwhores said:

weighing the option of ribbed tires versus turf tires

From what I've been able to find turfs are FAR less expensive.

 

What I did:

When I bought the tires that I use for plowing right now I was only interested in using what was then the 8 horsepower Patriot for pulling heavy loads out of the forest.

 

I put 20 x 8 x 8 tires on the front. Turfs.

I went a couple sizes up because I was looking to get as much Rimguard in the tires as I could to assist keeping the front end down.

That was great for the original intended usage but...

Those tires are a little too wide to get a full turning radius with the plow frame mounted.

 

I wouldn't exactly say that is National Emergency Status because I have plenty of space but it would be nice to have a smaller turning circle.

At some point I'm going to find a set of 18 x 6 wide or so.

I'll have those filled with Rimguard but also add steel plate somewhere on the tractor and those roller chains wrapped around the tires.

 

 

[C_hasbeen 249]

On 1/22/2020 at 10:34 AM, ebinmaine said:

When you do that, install a stud kit.

Makes future swaps even easier.

 

Ahh a stud kit!  Well why didn't you say something?  Lol. I think I shall invest in that idea. Do you thread them in from the back of the hub?  

[C_hasbeen 249]

On 1/22/2020 at 3:34 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

On my Cinnamon Horse I swap the wheels twice a year.

 

Makes it so you don't have to use the regular Wheelhorse bolts which can be tough to line up when installing the wheels.

 

They are 7/16 fine thread bolts around 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inches long.

Lug nuts you can get from the parts store but I order them online. Mid sixties Chevy.

 

We put them on all of our horses.

 

Well I guess I should have read more in this thread before asking questions !

[ebinmaine 67,266]

5 minutes ago, C_hasbeen said:

Well I guess I should have read more in this thread before asking questions !

No worries...

 

They're a huge help.

 

[C_hasbeen 249]

On 2/2/2020 at 4:08 PM, wheelwhores said:

Anyone have a good method for breaking a tire bead without a machine?  Having a hard time breaking the backs to get the valve stems in .

I use my harbor freight press with a piece flat iron.  

[wheelwhores 107]

i found a way to do it with 2x4s on a stud wall that worked as well or better than other methods i found online.  i can post if you are interested.

[GlenPettit 1,716]

A couple of suggestion here:

1. Best to add weight on the axle, least stress one the bearings.  Weight added beind the rear axle will tend to act like a titter-todder, lifting the front end slightly, and the blade it-self unless, you have     weight on the front end too.

2.  IMO; weight inside the tire, like RimGuared is the best way to go, 'low & close to tractor'.

3.  Rubber chains are very safe, no damage, 2- link will give a very smooth ride.  but $$$

4.  An engine block pad heater will make starting much easier on those 0º mornings.

5.  Early in the morning before any sun comes out, the snow is very dry and light;  for me it's well worth getting out at 5am for clear snow.

6.  A trickle-charger will keep the battery at 12-13 volts which is what it takes to start on a very cold day.  (I'm in Michigan and love it).

7.  Wire all 110v extra plugs to just one plug so it's easy to unplug once the tractor is started, consider allowing for using with warm gloves.

8.  I'm near a busy highway and allowed for extra HF magnetic lights.

9.  (I wished there was a back blade available with sides to pull snow away from a garage door).

10.  A heated car seat pad is very easy to install and really helps to make plowing more comfortable.

Left: regular Carlisle Lugs         Right: Firestone 23º Lugs

 

Edited February 11, 2020 by GlenPettit

[ebinmaine 67,266]

6 hours ago, GlenPettit said:

Left: regular Carlisle Lugs         Right: Firestone 23º Lugs

That may be reversed.

 

The right side tire looks my Carlisle.

 

 

LOVE the seat warmer idea.

 

Can a car type 12v one be used?

 

 

[wheelwhores 107]

So this weekend i think i am going to give Eric's roller chain idea a try.  The 100 or so pounds of weight I currently have on the hitch tongue is going to come of and get hung on the custom rear wheel brackets i made.  i'm really interested to see if just removing weight from that position which i think you guys are correct is actually taking weight off the fronts AND dong the roller chain idea will improve my steering traction a substantial amount.  The next thing after that is a new set of turfs in the front with rim guard and wheel weight brackets like i have in the rear. 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

Just be sure to deflate the front tires before you put the chain on then inflate so it stays nice and tight.

 

I think making those changes is going to produce a huge difference.

 

 

[C-85 681]

I actually read the manual before putting on my last set of chains and it specifically said not to deflate the tires before putting the chains on.

 

But that's how I've always done it and I think it really works well, so I ignored these directions (destructions) and couldn't be happier.  I've never had to have the rubber bands on them to keep tension on them or any of those devices.

 

C-85

[Pullstart 62,783]

42 minutes ago, C-85 said:

I actually read the manual before putting on my last set of chains and it specifically said not to deflate the tires before putting the chains on.

 

But that's how I've always done it and I think it really works well, so I ignored these directions (destructions) and couldn't be happier.  I've never had to have the rubber bands on them to keep tension on them or any of those devices.

 

C-85

 

That is a good tip to get them snug indeed, but Eric was referring to the roller chain ring on a front tire.  The air pressure is the only thing holding the chain on the tire so it is crucial.  

 

Now just to remember to lower air air pressure to install normal tire chains!