wheelwhores 107 #1 Posted January 22, 2020 I was able to add a 100lbs to the hitch receiver on my c175. Used a 3/4 x 8 zinc bolt...any reason this is no bueno? Seems to have added just enough to keep me from slipping in most places while plowing. 8 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,663 #2 Posted January 22, 2020 Nothing wrong with that at all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,783 #3 Posted January 22, 2020 The more weight you can stack all over that machine, the better! Great start! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy N. 2,135 #4 Posted January 22, 2020 What are the rear tires that you're running on that? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,991 #5 Posted January 22, 2020 That tread pattern looks like it might be happier if you switch the rear tires side to side. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #6 Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) Looks good to me! If the hitch can handle 100 pounds of tongue weight, it can handle 100 lbs of weights. Probably can handle more! I like your engineuity! Do you plow only in reverse? If you don't, there's why you have issues with slipping! Edited January 22, 2020 by ZXT 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,265 #7 Posted January 22, 2020 5 hours ago, pullstart said: Great start 4 hours ago, ZXT said: Looks good to me! If the hitch can handle 100 pounds of tongue weight, it can handle 100 lbs of weights. Probably can handle more! I like your engineuity! Do you plow only in reverse? If you don't, there's why you have issues with slipping! Agreed. The more weight the better. Those appear to be directional tread. Flip em and retry... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,300 #8 Posted January 22, 2020 I agree with with the others to flip those rear tires. I do not completely agree with adding weight to our tractors using the draw-bar. My reason is that any weight added to the rims only (wheel weights) puts all the weight on the rubber tires and none on the rear axle bearings . Weight added to the draw-bar puts that additional weight on the rear axle bearings. Just seems like it could possibly promote premature wear or failure of those bearings. So I run a 50# cast iron wheel weight on the outside of the rim and a 25# weight on the inside of the rim. 9 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,061 #9 Posted January 22, 2020 Liquid filled tires will add a lot of weight where it is needed at a very reasonable cost. SIZE GALLONS Per Tire WEIGHT in POUNDS 16x6.50-8 2.0 21.4 18x7.00-8 3.0 32.1 18x8.50-8 3.4 36.4 18x9.50-8 4.0 42.8 23x8.50-12 5.5 58.9 23x10.50-12 6.8 72.8 6-12 3.6 38.5 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmmmmdonuts 274 #10 Posted January 22, 2020 Chains are your friend for traction. They make a night and day difference even when you have an aggressive tread. Rubber or better yet metal chains. https://www.tirechain.com/Tractor-Tire-Chains.htm But yes I agree, liquid ballast is easy and cheap to do along with wheel weights. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #11 Posted January 22, 2020 the ultimate,,,,to date,, is ""THE ED KENNELL STACK,"" OVER THE TOP....NO SNOW TO DEEP ,,,, 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,021 #12 Posted January 22, 2020 I agree, swap the tires to maximize the cleaning action of the VEE tread. Fill the tires and add wheel weights. Past bearing studies have indicated adding load to the axle bearings at the slow rotational RPM does not significantly affect the bearing life. The bearings normally have 4-500 lbs of radial load, so increasing that by 200 lbs is not a problem. 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #13 Posted January 22, 2020 6 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Agreed. The more weight the better. Those appear to be directional tread. Flip em and retry... Lol. Yup. Just bought it a month ago and they were on that way. Been too cold here on weekends to get out and flip em round....but it's on my to-do list Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #14 Posted January 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: I agree, swap the tires to maximize the cleaning action of the VEE tread. Fill the tires and add wheel weights. Past bearing studies have indicated adding load to the axle bearings at the slow rotational RPM does not significantly affect the bearing life. The bearings normally have 4-500 lbs of radial load, so increasing that by 200 lbs is not a problem. That is funny because I've actually been looking for a free weight machine on clist to do this exact thing with! Lots to do this spring! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #15 Posted January 22, 2020 Here is the rear 3 hours ago, 953 nut said: Liquid filled tires will add a lot of weight where it is needed at a very reasonable cost. SIZE GALLONS Per Tire WEIGHT in POUNDS 16x6.50-8 2.0 21.4 18x7.00-8 3.0 32.1 18x8.50-8 3.4 36.4 18x9.50-8 4.0 42.8 23x8.50-12 5.5 58.9 23x10.50-12 6.8 72.8 6-12 3.6 38.5 tire size....they are huge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,265 #16 Posted January 22, 2020 1 hour ago, wheelwhores said: Lol. Yup. Just bought it a month ago and they were on that way. Been too cold here on weekends to get out and flip em round....but it's on my to-do list When you do that, install a stud kit. Makes future swaps even easier. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,783 #17 Posted January 22, 2020 7 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: I agree, swap the tires to maximize the cleaning action of the VEE tread. Fill the tires and add wheel weights. Past bearing studies have indicated adding load to the axle bearings at the slow rotational RPM does not significantly affect the bearing life. The bearings normally have 4-500 lbs of radial load, so increasing that by 200 lbs is not a problem. My guess is that the lack of oil in a case is more detrimental to some bearings than the weight and speed we run.... eh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #18 Posted January 22, 2020 10 hours ago, Sparky said: I agree with with the others to flip those rear tires. I do not completely agree with adding weight to our tractors using the draw-bar. My reason is that any weight added to the rims only (wheel weights) puts all the weight on the rubber tires and none on the rear axle bearings . Weight added to the draw-bar puts that additional weight on the rear axle bearings. Just seems like it could possibly promote premature wear or failure of those bearings. So I run a 50# cast iron wheel weight on the outside of the rim and a 25# weight on the inside of the rim. THIS MACHINE MUST BE A MONSTER IN THE SNOW,,,,,,THIS IS THE SET UP I USE,,,,BUT 8 H.P......AND IT NEVER STOPS.... EVER.... GOOD JOB MIKE. !!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #19 Posted January 22, 2020 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: When you do that, install a stud kit. Makes future swaps even easier. Stud kit? Also what is the difference between inner and outte wheel weights? I'd love to buy inners for the back and both inner and outer for the fronts...didn't even know there were wheel weights for the front. Are these after market or WH originals? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #20 Posted January 22, 2020 the wheel weights that are on the front now seem kind of junkie, like cheap plastic even though they have the WH emblem on them. 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: When you do that, install a stud kit. Makes future swaps even easier. Stud kit? Also what is the difference between inner and outte wheel weights? I'd love to buy inners for the back and both inner and outer for the fronts...didn't even know there were wheel weights for the front. Are these after market or WH originals? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,265 #21 Posted January 22, 2020 12 minutes ago, wheelwhores said: Stud kit? On my Cinnamon Horse I swap the wheels twice a year. Makes it so you don't have to use the regular Wheelhorse bolts which can be tough to line up when installing the wheels. They are 7/16 fine thread bolts around 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inches long. Lug nuts you can get from the parts store but I order them online. Mid sixties Chevy. We put them on all of our horses. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #22 Posted January 22, 2020 this will probably make more sense after i get the wheels off and see how everything works, i just assumed the hub would be similar to a car, but what i am understanding is that is not the case? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelwhores 107 #23 Posted January 22, 2020 also, ive seen two methods of fluid filling tires, one uses a pump like a hudson sprayer with an air compresser putting pressure on the tank, or another guy just did it with gravity but dropping the tire down several times using the wieght of the tractor to push air out of the tire creating a vacuum...does anyone have a method they prefer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,265 #24 Posted January 22, 2020 Just now, wheelwhores said: also, ive seen two methods of fluid filling tires, one uses a pump like a hudson sprayer with an air compresser putting pressure on the tank, or another guy just did it with gravity but dropping the tire down several times using the wieght of the tractor to push air out of the tire creating a vacuum...does anyone have a method they prefer? @953 nut @pfrederi @pullstart Maybe these guys could help with the tire filling question. I had mine done by a shop. 3 minutes ago, wheelwhores said: this will probably make more sense after i get the wheels off and see how everything works, i just assumed the hub would be similar to a car, but what i am understanding is that is not the case? Correct. The bolts on these tractors just come out like a regular bolt sort of like you would see on an old Volkswagen or other foreign car. Installing studs, bolts, right through the back of the hub flange makes it so they can be treated like a regular car wheel. That is exponentially easier to handle when you have a fluid-filled tire or one with a weight that is already bolted to the back of the rim. You can just use a floor jack to raise and lower the tractor to the correct height and slide the tire on instead of having to lift it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,300 #25 Posted January 22, 2020 50 minutes ago, wheelwhores said:Also what is the difference between inner and outte wheel weights? I'd love to buy inners for the back and both inner and outer for the fronts...didn't even know there were wheel weights for the front. Are these after market or WH originals? My outer rear weights are cast iron WH weights. The inners are International Cub weights. They are a perfect fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites