Goldnboy 910 #1 Posted January 20, 2020 Has anyone replaced the rear lift cable with a solid rod to the rockshaft on a C series and then another solid rod from the rear rockshaft to the sleeve hitch? I would think this would provide down pressure similar to what is available to to snow plow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,306 #2 Posted January 20, 2020 I understand what you're intellectually engineering there. You are not wrong in that it would offer an amount of down pressure. A couple of major differences. I'm sure you are well aware that the snow plow is one solid stick. I am thinking that putting down pressure on something behind the seat tunnel would put up pressure in the tunnel itself causing that to wear. I'm not saying it wouldn't work. I'm just saying it's not something you want to do very often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briankd 817 #3 Posted January 21, 2020 i was thinking of doing something like that on mine my 857 cable is gone and my c-120 cable rough looking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayzauto 89 #4 Posted January 21, 2020 GoldnBoy, Are you asking about this about this in relation to say, a rear rototiller?? I would suspect that any attachment to the rear that was effectively hard mounted, would tend to 'Lift' the rear of the tractor at some point, if it ran into an obstruction, or tougher than expected conditions. GLuck, Jay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,093 #5 Posted January 21, 2020 You don't have a straight line between the rockshaft and rear hitch, that is why a cable is needed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,800 #6 Posted January 21, 2020 I don’t have a rockshaft machine, so I have little first hand experience. Solid 3/8 lift bar was discussed not too long ago. Someone here has one. I think there is a couple links of chain on an end because of the fact that things aren’t quite in line. That would eliminate your down pressure option, but just imagine the lift handle being in the down position, you hitting something with your implement that things didn’t like, then that lift handle flying back and whopping your arm, hand, shoulder... when you least expect it. I’d opt for some give in that system if it were me or the ones I love on the tractor. Also, I have been told, most rear implements are designed to find their own way into the soil. If you’re forcing it in, something isn’t set up right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 910 #7 Posted January 21, 2020 I was thinking this more for when using a rear cultivator , or rear blade and or box blade. It would help and or eliminate the need for as much weights when used on the hard clay soils. I would simply use the chain on the roto tiller to aid in depth of tilling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #8 Posted January 21, 2020 Lots of good reasons not to do this have been mentioned, but nobody's said that any down force you apply to your implement is force that is no longer on the rear wheels. An argument could also be made that if you applied enough downforce to an implement to make any difference that force would have to be redistributed through the tractor in ways it isn't designed to handle. As someone else said, implements like blades, plows, etc. are designed to dig. That's why they often have wheels to limit how far down they go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darb1964 1,042 #9 Posted January 21, 2020 Need some cushion somewhere, even with a hydraulic piston with down pressure there is some give. Otherwise you will be breaking what ever is the weakest link. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 910 #10 Posted January 28, 2020 I know the GT14 is a different category and discussed almost as though a modern day marvel. I have not seen a GT14 in person, however I see that in the parts listing for the 3pt WH used a solid bar from the mid hitch rockshaft to the rear 3pt for raising and lowering. Why couldn't this same concept be used on a c series for rear lifting.? Is there something special about that tractor and its design for work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R. L. Addison 299 #11 Posted January 28, 2020 I put a rear lift cylinder on my C141 in '88 or '89, but the valve I used ( Ark 500 loader valve) has a float position, and without that, I would have removed a long time ago. I wanted midlift & rear lift separate as an option & not together, as in snow blower in front, & blade in rear. (Works very well.) Also it's a life saver with my arthritis. As was mentioned previously, it is not a straight shot, and you could have serious stresses & interference by transaxle housing. You also will be lifting rear wheels off the ground & spinning, or raise/lower lever constantly jumping around as also previously mentioned. I give you this lesson from the school of hard knocks. Ron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,674 #12 Posted January 28, 2020 First issue The solid bar used on a GT 14 sneaks between the Sunstrand hydro pump body and the transaxle. there is no such gap if your C series has an Eaton. Making one if you had and older Sunstrand C series would be a challenge. Not exactly a straight solid link either. That is 3/4" by 1-1/2 stock. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,093 #13 Posted January 29, 2020 7 hours ago, pfrederi said: First issue Second issue. The lift cylinder on the GT-14 is located up high on the rock shaft, but all other models have the cylinder mounted low. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,985 #14 Posted January 29, 2020 Just think'n out loud again but what about adding some spring tension instead of using dead weight. Compression style springs and the tension can be adjusted with a12v actuator. Force applied for down pressure but still some give for the occasional hard hit. Wheel weights and or fluid filled tires for countering the additional down force lifting on the back end ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,800 #15 Posted January 29, 2020 12 hours ago, wallfish said: Just think'n out loud again but what about adding some spring tension instead of using dead weight. Compression style springs and the tension can be adjusted with a12v actuator. Force applied for down pressure but still some give for the occasional hard hit. Wheel weights and or fluid filled tires for countering the additional down force lifting on the back end ? Like a trip edge on a Fisher Minute Mount? They are a push spring. I wonder if any commercial farm equipment is set up that way? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,981 #16 Posted February 3, 2020 I've a solid bar on my C-121 (Black Horse) Made some time ago. I'll try and see if I can find how I did it. Meadowfield did the same on one f his tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,981 #17 Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) These photo's may give you some ideas. They're all I have I'm afraid. Ignore the hydraulic cylinder. That's no longer on. The off set bar just clears the gear lever. Edited February 3, 2020 by Stormin 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 910 #18 Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) Thanks I knew that others surely had the same idea! I posted to get ideas on the failures of metal size or bends needed to make it happen. I do say that is a nicely upgraded rockshaft there. Edited February 3, 2020 by Goldnboy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites