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Goldnboy

Rear lift cable substitute

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Goldnboy

Has anyone  replaced  the rear lift cable with a solid  rod to the rockshaft on a C series  and then another solid rod from the rear rockshaft  to the sleeve  hitch? I would think this would  provide down pressure similar to what is available to to snow plow.

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ebinmaine

I understand what you're intellectually engineering there. You are not wrong in that it would offer an amount of down pressure.

A couple of major differences.

I'm sure you are well aware that the snow plow is one solid stick.

 

I am thinking that putting down pressure on something behind the seat tunnel would put up pressure in the tunnel itself causing that to wear.

 

I'm not saying it wouldn't work. I'm just saying it's not something you want to do very often.

 

 

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briankd

i was thinking of doing something like that on mine my 857 cable is gone and my c-120 cable rough looking 

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Jayzauto

GoldnBoy,  Are you asking about this about this in relation to say, a rear rototiller??   I would suspect that any attachment to the rear that was effectively hard mounted, would tend to 'Lift' the rear of the tractor at some point, if it ran into an obstruction, or tougher than expected conditions.

 

 

GLuck, Jay

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953 nut

You don't have a straight line between the rockshaft and rear hitch, that is why a cable is needed.

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Pullstart

I don’t have a rockshaft machine, so I have little first hand experience.  Solid 3/8 lift bar was discussed not too long ago.  Someone here has one.  I think there is a couple links of chain on an end because of the fact that things aren’t quite in line.  That would eliminate your down pressure option, but just imagine the lift handle being in the down position, you hitting something with your implement that things didn’t like, then that lift handle flying back and whopping your arm, hand, shoulder... when you least expect it.  I’d opt for some give in that system if it were me or the ones I love on the tractor.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Also, I have been told, most rear implements are designed to find their own way into the soil.  If you’re forcing it in, something isn’t set up right.

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Goldnboy

I was thinking this more for when using a rear cultivator , or rear  blade and or box blade. It would help and or eliminate  the need for as much weights when used on the hard clay soils.

I would simply  use the chain on the roto tiller  to aid in depth  of tilling.

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oilwell1415

Lots of good reasons not to do this have been mentioned, but nobody's said that any down force you apply to your implement is force that is no longer on the rear wheels.  An argument could also be made that if you applied enough downforce to an implement to make any difference that force would have to be redistributed through the tractor in ways it isn't designed to handle.  As someone else said, implements like blades, plows, etc. are designed to dig.  That's why they often have wheels to limit how far down they go.

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Darb1964

Need some cushion somewhere, even with a hydraulic piston with down pressure there is some give. Otherwise you will be breaking what ever is the weakest link.

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Goldnboy

I know the GT14  is a different  category  and discussed almost as though a modern day marvel. I have not seen a GT14  in person, however I see that in the parts listing for the 3pt WH used  a solid bar from the mid hitch rockshaft  to the rear 3pt for raising and lowering. Why couldn't this same concept be used on a c series for rear lifting.? Is there something  special about that tractor  and its design  for work?

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R. L. Addison

I put a rear lift cylinder on my C141 in '88 or '89, but the valve I used ( Ark 500 loader valve) has a float position, and without that, I would have removed a long time ago. 

I wanted midlift & rear lift separate as an option & not together, as in snow blower in front, & blade in rear. (Works very well.) Also it's a life saver with my arthritis.

 

As was mentioned previously, it is not a straight shot, and you could have serious stresses & interference by transaxle housing. You also will be lifting rear wheels off the ground & spinning, or raise/lower lever constantly jumping around as also previously mentioned. I give you this lesson from the school of hard knocks.  Ron

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pfrederi

First issue  The solid bar used on a GT 14 sneaks between the Sunstrand hydro pump body and the transaxle.  there is no such gap if your C series has an Eaton.  Making one if you had and older Sunstrand C series would be a challenge. Not exactly a straight solid link either.  That is 3/4" by 1-1/2 stock.

 

 

 

IMG_0274.JPG

IMG_0275.JPG

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953 nut
7 hours ago, pfrederi said:

First issue 

Second issue. The lift cylinder on the GT-14 is located up high on the rock shaft, but all other models have the cylinder mounted low.

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wallfish

Just think'n out loud again but what about adding some spring tension instead of using dead weight. Compression style springs and the tension can be adjusted with a12v actuator. Force applied for down pressure but still some give for the occasional hard hit. :twocents-02cents:

Wheel weights and or fluid filled tires for countering the additional down force lifting on the back end ?

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Pullstart
12 hours ago, wallfish said:

Just think'n out loud again but what about adding some spring tension instead of using dead weight. Compression style springs and the tension can be adjusted with a12v actuator. Force applied for down pressure but still some give for the occasional hard hit. :twocents-02cents:

Wheel weights and or fluid filled tires for countering the additional down force lifting on the back end ?

 

Like a trip edge on a Fisher Minute Mount?  They are a push spring.  I wonder if any commercial farm equipment is set up that way?

 

 

E1EA0DF0-D0A9-40BF-99EA-A1AB72678AD3.jpeg

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Stormin

 I've a solid bar on my C-121 (Black Horse) Made some time ago. I'll try and see if I can find how I did it. Meadowfield did the same on one f his tractors.

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Stormin

 These photo's may give you some ideas. They're all I have I'm afraid. Ignore the hydraulic cylinder. That's no longer on.

2116368479_2002-01-0601_11_49.jpg.a3f23c7bca497501e8f4d78c54b5b346.jpg

 

1321507129_2002-01-0601_12_43.jpg.c7844ccab16267b6273fbd3873a59272.jpg

 

The off set bar just clears the gear lever.

 

1090221067_2002-01-0801_07_18.jpg.2e1f29e0e10f0209c724f4c1a4338471.jpg

 

1541973366_2002-01-0801_09_11.jpg.1187aa99be78ea580384a22241c4a7e3.jpg

 

1102320822_2002-01-0302_26_37.jpg.353e71adac33e5312c3a31a31ea83d2f.jpg

 

 

Edited by Stormin
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Goldnboy

Thanks I knew that others surely had the same idea! I posted to get ideas on the failures of metal size or bends needed  to make it happen.

 

I do say that is a nicely  upgraded  rockshaft there.

Edited by Goldnboy
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