856 by Holcomb's Auto Body

[BenHolcomb 332]

2 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Now I am no painter by any stretch Ben but thats why I pay Dan to be my bro! 

 He and I are accustomed to complete dismantling, blasting and spraying parts individually then using self etching primer with Van Sickle IH red with their reducers/hardeners. It's close enough to  RED for hand grenades and Dan has produced some way more better finnishes for the women we go out with!

Fact of the matter he got the runs on a recent spray, we blamed on the previous green color on some fenders, and he started back from scratch.

Are you saying you sprayed over the factory paint? After degreasing of course.

 

What say you Dan @Achto ... thoughts on doing Cindy's  candy apple 702 like this? 

Thank you, I removed the paint the best I could with abrasive wheels namely the poly carbide, wire wheels etc on the pot metal items like the transmission and axle..I could have gone chemical with aircraft paint stripper to get in the pits but it is too dang cold out for that nastiness. The primer we used on those parts acts like POR-15 in that it can be painted over rust so you only have to remove the flakey stuff. There is a catch in that you have to paint it within a few days for the two to bond properly. 

[BenHolcomb 332]

9 hours ago, ZXT said:

Very good! It should serve you well. 

 

I'm not a body man by any means but I know the hoods of these WH's can flex quite a bit when opened.. What's the chance of the bondo separating from the hood and causing issues? I'm not sure how well the stuff bonds.. Heck, it might act as a structural reinforncer for all I know!

Slim to none. We didn't just slop a deep dent full of filler. That would indeed have the potential to separate over time on a surface that is flexing heavily. By hammering out the dents first as best we could the fillers coverage will be minimal once sanded. I see two common mistakes typically, the first is people have the tendency to sand out the repair they just made (removing too much). To help prevent that use a flat surface to wrap the sand paper in (sanding block, piece of wood ect.) Do not use your palm if sanding on a flat area palms are mushy and conform to the dent sanding it out again. Check frequently with your hand by running it over the repair you should feel no ridges and the outer edge should have a feathered lighter look. The second mistake is going from an aggressive filler strait to primer then paint. you will see the repair if the time is not taken to layer it properly. 

 

One other thing to note. Metal is always more preferable. What I mean is if you can replace a damaged panel "on a car for instance" that is a better repair than filling it. However costs, availability, time, they're all factors. Sometimes you just need the old hoopty to pass inspection and get you through another winter. Tractors are no different. 

[Achto 27,502]

21 hours ago, WHX24 said:

What say you Dan @Achto ... thoughts on doing Cindy's  candy apple 702 like this?

 

By the time I get done putting the on primer, the base coat, 3 coats of tinted urethane clear, and two coats of regular clear the paint will be pretty thick. I'd rather start with bare metal. Plus this way I will know whats under the paint.

[Achto 27,502]

Paint is looking great Ben!!

 

I under stand you being concerned about blasting the sheet metal. On large tin foil car panels it can warp the snot out of them. The 16ga metal on these 's actually tolerates it quite well. I blast inside and out on the hoods & have never had a warping issue. I have on occasion ended up with sand "blaster surprise" where a rust spot turns into a big hole. This usually happens in between the grill & hood where the are spot welded together.

 

[BenHolcomb 332]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

By the time I get done putting the on primer, the base coat, 3 coats of tinted urethane clear, and two coats of regular clear the paint will be pretty thick. I'd rather start with bare metal. Plus this way I will know whats under the paint.

If you look at the top of the transmission case you can see how much of the original paint was taken off. Eventually everything was done to that same level of removal prior to paint. I do agree you dont want to build it up too thick hence the single stage and no clear. 

[BenHolcomb 332]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

Paint is looking great Ben!!

 

I under stand you being concerned about blasting the sheet metal. On large tin foil car panels it can warp the snot out of them. The 16ga metal on these 's actually tolerates it quite well. I blast inside and out on the hoods & have never had a warping issue. I have on occasion ended up with sand "blaster surprise" where a rust spot turns into a big hole. This usually happens in between the grill & hood where the are spot welded together.

 

Thank you for the compliment. I'm also pleased with the outcome so far, and the color is lovely in person. Very deep red I'm not sure why the lighting makes it appear orangish in the photos it isn't at all in person. 

 

When I get around to doing the 855 I'll be sand blasting a lot of it. The small disc method was effective but very time consuming. 

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

You talk about sandblasting which is good but on my restos l  used the electrolysis method. This process l used washing soda. It boils all the rust and paint off with a12 volt charger so that all you have to do is use a wire brush to clean.

[Pullstart 62,787]

I second what Randy said!

 

E tank is so slick, plus the solution doesn’t go bad... you can just keep using it!

 

[BenHolcomb 332]

12 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

You talk about sandblasting which is good but on my restos l  used the electrolysis method. This process l used washing soda. It boils all the rust and paint off with a12 volt charger so that all you have to do is use a wire brush to clean.

I'll certainly keep that in mind when I get around to redoing the 855! Looks like a very effective method. Refinishing the wheels was easily my least favorite part.. I did a lot of it by hand to get into the tight areas and wore my fingernails clean off sanding. 

[Pullstart 62,787]

Yep, the wheels were in the dip about a day, then rotate.  The paint and grime basically just wipes off.  A good pressure washing and you’re at bare metal!

 

My Charger has a 24V option.  It is a direct equation between volts/amps and how quick it makes the bubbles!  Also, be sure you GROUND your part and apply positive charge to the sacrificial anode.  The paint and grime attracts to the positive pole like a magnet.  

[tom2p 2,394]

17 hours ago, Achto said:

Paint is looking great Ben!!

 

I under stand you being concerned about blasting the sheet metal. On large tin foil car panels it can warp the snot out of them. The 16ga metal on these 's actually tolerates it quite well. I blast inside and out on the hoods & have never had a warping issue. I have on occasion ended up with sand "blaster surprise" where a rust spot turns into a big hole. This usually happens in between the grill & hood where the are spot welded together.

 

years and years ago 

 

friend got a 69 GTO from another state - rust free / clean - all original panels 

 

but still decided to get the body blasted 

 

huge mistake

 

damaged the sheet metal and if I recall correctly replaced most or all body panels ... fenders, door skins, quarters .. 

 

this was a disaster 

 

[BenHolcomb 332]

Bit of progress. I need to source a new front axle pin before she's a roller. The mounting tab had broken off at the weld...probably from its rendezvous with the house! 

[WHX?? 48,776]

Dime a dozen on the axle pins Ben... can still get them from Toro or Dan makes them ....let us know you need. I got a half dozen with the plate broke off .... $h1t happens. No idea why I am saving them! 

Edited January 3, 2020 by WHX24

[BenHolcomb 332]

2 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Dime a dozen on the axle pins Ben... can still get them from Toro or Dan makes them ....let us know you need. I got a half dozen with the plate broke off .... $h1t happens. No idea why I am saving them! 

Excellent! Do you have a part number for the Toro item, or contact info for your friend Dan. If he does good work and has one ready to go id gladly ****** it up. 

[tom2p 2,394]

45 minutes ago, BenHolcomb said:

Bit of progress. I need to source a new front axle pin before she's a roller. The mounting tab had broken off at the weld...probably from its rendezvous with the house! 

hey - what bike is that !

 

HRC ... Honda (?) ...

 

appears to be a small bore ... (?) ... 

 

 

Edited January 3, 2020 by tom2p

[BenHolcomb 332]

Good eye Tom, its a 04 Honda RS125R. Last year for the factory two stroke grand prix racer. Makes about 40hp and weighs 160 odd lbs dry. Sorry for the non tractor pic! Might be a motorcycle fan or two in the crowd...

[tom2p 2,394]

56 minutes ago, BenHolcomb said:

Good eye Tom, its a 04 Honda RS125R. Last year for the factory two stroke grand prix racer. Makes about 40hp and weighs 160 odd lbs dry. Sorry for the non tractor pic! Might be a motorcycle fan or two in the crowd...

ha - one of my guesses !

 

the one with cassette gearbox 

 

[Achto 27,502]

2 hours ago, BenHolcomb said:

Excellent! Do you have a part number for the Toro item, or contact info for your friend Dan

 

The part number for the pin/plate assembly is 6216, roughly about $22. You can also PM me, I think that I may have some made up. If you wish to go that route. 

[Horse Play 393]

From PA, Wheel Horse, Honda, and a GTI - we must have been separated at birth LOL.

[BenHolcomb 332]

Thanks for the part # Dan. I found one easily using that. Bundled the order because I needed a new clutch spring also. I'll keep you in mind if I need replacements in the future. 

 

Horse Play~ great minds think alike.

[Pullstart 62,787]

Ben, the impact isn’t as likely to have snapped that tab, as a dry socket on that axle.  Remember that when greasing the front end on these, jack the frame up under the engine and take the load off that pin... so grease can get to “wear” it needs it the most 

[ebinmaine 67,271]

18 minutes ago, pullstart said:

take the load off that pin... so grease can get to “wear” it needs it the most 

Good play Kev....

 

 

 

Awesome work on this rig Ben. Thanks for taking us along....

 

[BenHolcomb 332]

8 hours ago, pullstart said:

Ben, the impact isn’t as likely to have snapped that tab, as a dry socket on that axle.  Remember that when greasing the front end on these, jack the frame up under the engine and take the load off that pin... so grease can get to “wear” it needs it the most 

Appreciate the tip! In the future I'll give that a try. 

[BenHolcomb 332]

Dad's been busy! 

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

Very impressive so far !