Goldnboy 959 #1 Posted December 22, 2019 Well today's the day that I got started on this project. I spend some time acquiring many of the parts for this. On 12/18 I picked up the final major item from @richmondred01. I figured that my K181S was under powered to run this PTO setup so I decided to increase HP. I acquired a K321 fuel tank bracket setup, starter generator brackets from a WH 953, starter generator brackets, from a MF10, a type II power steering pump, and hold your breath a oil reservoir from a JD 214 (as you can tell the color just had to go). I also have a C160 hydraulic cylinder, control valve, and rockshaft that I acquired earlier as well which should be a direct fit assembly. Now I need to acquire a PTO shaft for the front flywheel, to run a pulley for the pump. (If anyone has these and would like to part with let me know) Here is my beginning mock up. I am waiting for some Kohler head studs to arrive, and need to determine how to align and hook the oil reservoir to the pump. I forgot to mention I have checked my max height that I can raise the reservoir to is 19.5". 8 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,879 #2 Posted December 22, 2019 Quite a rig! Nicely done so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,913 #3 Posted December 22, 2019 3 hours ago, Goldnboy said: Now I need to acquire a PTO shaft for the front flywheel, to run a pulley for the pump. (If anyone has these and would like to part with let me know) I have a similar set up on my Raider 12. I used a Hien Werner hydraulic pump on mine. I do not know your skills or your availability to a machinist but here is how the pulley is mounted to my fly wheel. Start with a rod coupling nut. You will need one the same size & thread pitch as the fly wheel nut. Partially thread a bolt into one end of the coupling nut and weld the two together. Cut the head of the bolt off & turn the rest of exposed bolt down to 1/2". This will allow you to mount a pulley with a 1/2" I.D, on the the nut. Last measure the length of the crank shaft sticking out past the flywheel. Turn the other end of the nut down so the the depth of the hole will come close to the crank shaft but not bottom out on it. Example of a rod coupling nut. https://www.grainger.com/product/1CWD7?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916758277!!!g!82128323997!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197 8 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #4 Posted December 23, 2019 I've used a power steering pump for this purpose and it has been lifting implements for years. Sure beats jerking on a long lever. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,201 #5 Posted December 23, 2019 15 hours ago, Cvans said: I've used a power steering pump for this purpose and it has been lifting implements for years. Sure beats jerking on a long lever. What did you use to control the flow? Just a standard WH type spool valve? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #6 Posted December 23, 2019 Just single spool Charlyn valve I had laying around. The lift on the back of the tractor uses a lift cylinder from a Ford garden tractor. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,065 #7 Posted December 23, 2019 On 12/22/2019 at 8:21 PM, Goldnboy said: Well today's the day that I got started on this project. I spend some time acquiring many of the parts for this. On 12/18 I picked up the final major item from @richmondred01. I figured that my K181S was under powered to run this PTO setup so I decided to increase HP. I acquired a K321 fuel tank bracket setup, starter generator brackets from a WH 953, starter generator brackets, from a MF10, a type II power steering pump, and hold your breath a oil reservoir from a JD 214 (as you can tell the color just had to go). I also have a C160 hydraulic cylinder, control valve, and rockshaft that I acquired earlier as well which should be a direct fit assembly. Now I need to acquire a PTO shaft for the front flywheel, to run a pulley for the pump. (If anyone has these and would like to part with let me know) Here is my beginning mock up. I am waiting for some Kohler head studs to arrive, and need to determine how to align and hook the oil reservoir to the pump. I forgot to mention I have checked my max height that I can raise the reservoir to is 19.5". Nice Rig. looks like a Bosch Power steering pump. if so, than that pump supports your System with 90 -110Bar of Hydraulic pressure. You have to take care, the spinning direction is right. I tried on my first tries the same pump, but i found out it must spun in opposite direction on my system compared to Engine rotation. Not sure, how the kohler spins, but before i would try a test with some oil dribbs in the suction on rear for a pre test. Few dribbs are enough to see if spinning direction is the same. in right spinning direction oil dribbs will come out on the high pressure side ( open before test) ( and please be carefully, 90Bar is a lot of Pressure) you can spin it easily with a finger to see if spinning direction is right. otherwise simply rotate the pump at 180 deg. What is on your setup easy possible. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #8 Posted December 24, 2019 Nice neat setup your putting together. Don't remember the brand of pump but I do remember it came out of a Nissan. Wanted something with a metal reservoir so I could tap into it and also enlarge it if necessary. As it turns out it has enough capacity. Flea-bay purchase. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #9 Posted December 26, 2019 On 12/22/2019 at 5:11 PM, Achto said: I have a similar set up on my Raider 12. I used a Hien Werner hydraulic pump on mine. I do not know your skills or your availability to a machinist but here is how the pulley is mounted to my fly wheel. Start with a rod coupling nut. You will need one the same size & thread pitch as the fly wheel nut. Partially thread a bolt into one end of the coupling nut and weld the two together. Cut the head of the bolt off & turn the rest of exposed bolt down to 1/2". This will allow you to mount a pulley with a 1/2" I.D, on the the nut. Last measure the length of the crank shaft sticking out past the flywheel. Turn the other end of the nut down so the the depth of the hole will come close to the crank shaft but not bottom out on it. Example of a rod coupling nut. https://www.grainger.com/product/1CWD7?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916758277!!!g!82128323997!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197 I like your belt guard what is the from or did you fabricate your own. The belt guard I will tackle at the end and I assume it will be something done from cardboard at first for a mock up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,913 #10 Posted December 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Goldnboy said: I like your belt guard what is the from or did you fabricate your own. Thank you, I fabricated it myself. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #11 Posted January 5, 2020 Today I finished fabricating the front pulley. I took a 3/4 GR8 bolt added a 4.5" pulley, drilled a hole for shear pin through one of the allen key holes. Then I drilled a hole in the center using as a guide a set of bushings to 1/4" for a pilot hole then when bigger and tapped to 3/8 fine. Then took a 3/8 GR8 bolt and tapped 2.5" and then inserted into the 3/4" bolt (added blue locktite) and cut the head off. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #12 Posted January 5, 2020 7 hours ago, Goldnboy said: Today I finished fabricating the front pulley. I took a 3/4 GR8 bolt added a 4.5" pulley, drilled a hole for shear pin through one of the allen key holes. Then I drilled a hole in the center using as a guide a set of bushings to 1/4" for a pilot hole then when bigger and tapped to 3/8 fine. Then took a 3/8 GR8 bolt and tapped 2.5" and then inserted into the 3/4" bolt (added blue locktite) and cut the head off. I noticed you have one but I was going to tell you that I have a pulley that mounts on the fly wheel with three bolts that is about that same size. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #13 Posted January 12, 2020 Managed to get the pump pulleys aligned, head bolts in with spacers. Got to get hose clamp for tank and another 90 elbow. Time to remove and paint for when a warm snap happens again this winter. I think a rubber hose will still be acceptable for the tank to pump what do you guys think? 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,913 #14 Posted January 12, 2020 Rubber hose should be just fine. My C145, C141,& 520 use rubber hose to run from the back of the tractor all the way to the front. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #15 Posted March 8, 2020 I finished painting the engine and have assembly complete before it gets installed to the tractor. I added some ATF and it seems to flow to the pump sufficiently for the restriction to the hose angle. Does anyone fabricate starter generator covers? The ones by wheelhorse I believe will not clear a 4.5" pulley. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,885 #16 Posted March 9, 2020 Looking good! There are quite a few pick-n-pull yards in KC, you could probably find a hose with a bend already in it already. Wish I was a little closer, would love to check out your setup! Randy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #17 Posted June 6, 2020 Got started again on this... It fits ! Now on to changing the rockshaft 6 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #18 Posted June 6, 2020 Nice compact setup. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #20 Posted June 6, 2020 that's pretty cool. I have a pump off an old ford for a snow plow. I have the pump, valves, lines, but no cylinders. I've been looking for a way to mount it, now I think I found a way!! But, don't think I'm gonna have the room under the hood of a 606 with a 16 horse kohler, that takes up quite a bit of territory. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #21 Posted June 7, 2020 I was able to get the rockshaft installed, the control valve, and the lift cylinder. Unfortunately the clutch pedal rod from a 8 speed is straight and bumps into the cylinder lines, I have another clutch rod from a hydro, however its a few inches short. Guess i will need to lengthen the one from a hydro to the correct length with a coupling nut. Had a visit today from Don Thraen with a "Horse" aka walk behind tiller. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,065 #22 Posted June 7, 2020 Huh, missed that thread because forgot to follow. the new Hose looks much better in fit. btw. Good solution with the Pulley Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #23 Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) On 3/8/2020 at 4:43 PM, Goldnboy said: I finished painting the engine and have assembly complete before it gets installed to the tractor. I added some ATF and it seems to flow to the pump sufficiently for the restriction to the hose angle. Does anyone fabricate starter generator covers? The ones by wheelhorse I believe will not clear a 4.5" pulley. Very interesting set up you have put together they're definitely a great service motor. What are your plans from here? of course you know we will have to require a video of it running Edited June 8, 2020 by The Tuul Crib Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #24 Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) You've done a beautiful job on this but you just have to do something with that kinked hose. It's going to give me bad dreams tonight. Try putting a spring inside it to help hold it's shape. Just make sure it can't drop into the pump. Edited June 8, 2020 by Cvans 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 959 #25 Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, Cvans said: You've done a beautiful job on this but you just have to do something with that kinked hose. It's going to give me bad dreams tonight. Try putting a spring inside it to help hold it's shape. Just make sure it can't drop into the pump. I did change that, it made me delay this before I refreshed the GT1848 in another thread, might not be able to see in the picture with the hood down, but it now it goes down from tank with a preformed hose with a 90 bend to a 90 elbow connected with a hose to another 90 elbow and then back to another preformed hose 90 bend to end to pump. There is a little bit of drop down but not much. I will post a close up picture in the future. Edited June 8, 2020 by Goldnboy 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites