ebinmaine 67,717 #201 Posted October 17, 2020 38 minutes ago, pfrederi said: require some fabricating Been thinkin on that. Really leaning towards putting on the left foot rest. I sit with a wide stance so it won't be in the way at all. Lever facing straight-up. Pull towards me plow goes up... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #203 Posted October 17, 2020 Tightened up the fore/aft play in the steering. Needs a lot of help in that dept. I'll get it up and running first. Then fix steering as time allows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,673 #204 Posted October 18, 2020 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Tightened up the fore/aft play in the steering. Needs a lot of help in that dept. I'll get it up and running first. Then fix steering as time allows. Fix the steering, I know they climb trees my neighbors did, and your not use to a hydro. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #205 Posted October 18, 2020 6 hours ago, Lee1977 said: Fix the steering, I know they climb trees my neighbors did, and your not use to a hydro. Oh I will before using it to plow. I'll swap in a usable set of tie rods before driving it. I just want get some seat time on it. Check for leaks. Be sure it's all working good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #206 Posted November 17, 2020 Had a few minutes to spare this evening. I got the muffler clamp undone which took some patience but I'll be able to reuse it. I was able to give the muffler itself a couple of good healthy twists and it came off of the adapter you can see below that goes into the engine. Then I got to thinking, Well, I need to get that adapter out of the engine so I can put the appropriate one in there... This should be fun. Pipe wrench, 5 ft piece of pipe, a little bit of patience and some leaning on the pipe and after a bit it came out. Sah-weeeeet!!! So I'll bring the pieces to work with me and pick up more appropriate pipes to put it back together. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldWorkHorse 3,045 #207 Posted November 17, 2020 31 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Pipe wrench, 5 ft piece of pipe, a little bit of patience and some leaning on the pipe and after a bit it came out. Wont lie that's a clench moment for me. Twisting on stuck exhaust somethings got to give im just scared he the block sometimes 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #208 Posted November 18, 2020 1 hour ago, OldWorkHorse said: Wont lie that's a clench moment for me. Twisting on stuck exhaust somethings got to give im just scared he the block sometimes Agreed. Learned a neat trick awhile back. Crush the pipe on purpose. That makes it a lot easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,923 #209 Posted November 21, 2020 On 11/17/2020 at 8:09 PM, ebinmaine said: Agreed. Learned a neat trick awhile back. Crush the pipe on purpose. That makes it a lot easier. plus that whole tighten a bit before you loosen thing we like to tell people. Hi Mirror! Good job thinking for my buddy! Hey. EB. ‘Bout that valve. @Achto mounted his HY pump (think your valve) on his Raider up forward, then added a linkage to it for close controls. Could you locate it more up front-er and run a few heim joint rod ends to where you need the levers? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #210 Posted November 21, 2020 4 minutes ago, pullstart said: close controls. Could you locate it more up front-er and run a few heim joint rod ends to where you need the levers? Note the above bold. On this tractor I won't need to. I've narrowed down where to mount based on watching my driving habits while on Cinnamon. I could mount the big valve on an L bracket up side of the steering tower but my knee is often there. I have noted however that if I put the valve on the floor of the left step with stick "up" it's within reach. I may possibly add to the stick with a Z in the lever but don't think I'll need to. The idea you have/Achto used Will be used on the Colossus clutch though. No room for a pedal on the left (that's a BIG engine) so I'll use the implement lift lever with a rod going down to a short section of the old pedal OR a fabbed piece (OR a direct pull off the back section) to operate the clutch. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,923 #211 Posted November 21, 2020 Hand clutch... I love It! It’s been done many a times for rat rot customs along with kid builds. Different type of kids though Bear, little short ones. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #212 Posted November 25, 2020 Got the rock shaft off the parts unit supplied by @Stepney. Went to install it and discovered that the threads in the mounting block were only partially cut and one of the holes was stripped of 3 out of 7 available threads. So I got out the tap set and added about twice the thread depth to both holes. I'll finish installing that later. Put the muffler in place for trial fit. I'll clean it up a bit and have the BBT splash some BBQ paint on it. Also put the oil filter on the transmission and dropped a quart of fluid in to see if the gaskets are ok. I had a little residue on the floor after installing the transmission. Hopefully it was old fluid I hadn't wiped off right. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #213 Posted November 25, 2020 Why not aim the muffler down and to the front a bit. Why have fumes in your face... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,923 #214 Posted November 25, 2020 My guess is there’s a stack in the picture... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #215 Posted November 25, 2020 12 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Why not aim the muffler down and to the front a bit. Why have fumes in your face... 7 minutes ago, pullstart said: My guess is there’s a stack in the picture... Yes sir. Ran out of time before I could get it all painted up and put on... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #216 Posted November 26, 2020 @Jhook If you start on page 6 of this thread it shows what I did to my own transmission. There's a shot of the old and new park pawl as well showing the damages. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #217 Posted November 26, 2020 59 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: @Jhook If you start on page 6 of this thread it shows what I did to my own transmission. There's a shot of the old and new park pawl as well showing the damages. Great will take a look. Thank you👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #218 Posted November 26, 2020 This morning I took the hoses off the hydro lift cylinder and valve. Mounted the cylinder. Installed 2 of the hoses in the cylinder. Got the rock shaft installation finished up. That needed a couple pins and a bit of cleaning up. I found some good used bushings for the brake pedal and a pin for the small end of the cylinder in the parts pile. Got the feet shelf on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #219 Posted November 27, 2020 @Jhook After doing some further research on this park brake linkage I may guess you have a similar issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #220 Posted November 27, 2020 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: @Jhook After doing some further research on this park brake linkage I may guess you have a similar issue. Which page is it discussed on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #221 Posted November 27, 2020 53 minutes ago, Jhook said: Which page is it discussed on? This one right here. It's something I've been working on today. I discovered during the assembly process that my own park brake was not releasing fully. After doing some poking, prodding, pulling, and pushing I figured out that the linkage related to the park brake has quite a fair amount of slop. A little here, a little there and more over there. Also, the pin and lever have some wear on each piece. All this added up to the park pawl not being able to get out of the way of the gear inside. Well I'm not opposed to disassembling things and fixing it correctly at all BUT... that's something that is going to wait til this rig gets painted. Sooo... I did some fancy measuring and guesswork. Decided that I needed the pin to grow from 1/2" OD (minus the groove of course) to whatever made the pawl release. I took the old lever from the original park pawl, added a spacer that was .75 and another that's 1.2 or so OD. Cutty. Pasty. J. B. Weldy. Yepp. Pretty big jump. Seems like it could have been less but that's what I had on hand. And it worked. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #222 Posted November 27, 2020 27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: This one right here. It's something I've been working on today. I discovered during the assembly process that my own park brake was not releasing fully. After doing some poking, prodding, pulling, and pushing I figured out that the linkage related to the park brake has quite a fair amount of slop. A little here, a little there and more over there. Also, the pin and lever have some wear on each piece. All this added up to the park pawl not being able to get out of the way of the gear inside. Well I'm not opposed to disassembling things and fixing it correctly at all BUT... that's something that is going to wait til this rig gets painted. Sooo... I did some fancy measuring and guesswork. Decided that I needed the pin to grow from 1/2" OD (minus the groove of course) to whatever made the pawl release. I took the old lever from the original park pawl, added a spacer that was .75 and another that's 1.2 or so OD. Cutty. Pasty. J. B. Weldy. Yepp. Pretty big jump. Seems like it could have been less but that's what I had on hand. And it worked. Gotcha. Will have to try that. Mine is fairly worn i think. The wheels still move with the rear jacked up and brake engaged. Is that normal? Im thinking the brake may only be designed to work with both wheels on the ground and spinning the same direction? Cause obviously they spin opposite with it jacked up. But i still get the noise when I pulling down with my hand directly on the brake shaft. So who knows lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #223 Posted November 27, 2020 Luckily another member is currently pulling a good used trans with good tight hubs and shipping it to me so i can still use the machine while i repair the trans in it. Just needs axle seals which i ordered already, and i ordered a new drive belt idler pulley, the one that goes on the brake arm. Mine locked up 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #224 Posted November 27, 2020 7 hours ago, Jhook said: The wheels still move with the rear jacked up and brake engaged. Is that normal? Im thinking the brake may only be designed to work with both wheels on the ground and spinning the same direction? Cause obviously they spin opposite with it jacked up. But i still get the noise when I pulling down with my hand directly on the brake shaft I'm not sure if it's normal for an open diff tractor to allow a wheel to spin if off the ground. Mine is limited slip and it's the only hydro we have. I figure if it's making that noise AT ALL no matter where the wheels are it needs to be addressed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,717 #225 Posted December 3, 2020 Well the ole Charger is outside on the charger... Got a seat from @Stepney awhile ago and decided to make use of it for this. It'll get a touch of dye at some point if the whole Hydro thing is gonna work out and be a part of our herd. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites