ebinmaine 67,711 #51 Posted December 22, 2019 15 minutes ago, ZXT said: Have you tested any of the components on yours or are you just assuming its bad? @Stepney beat me to the answers.. 7 minutes ago, Stepney said: I'd tested the trigger by the Kohler book with a meter and it still seemed to be working, as was the stator coil under the flywheel. I think ice got to the external coil and that's what ended all that. Didn't have a spare coil on hand to try. So yeah..... The coil body is split and rust is showing from the inside. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #52 Posted December 22, 2019 17 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Coil test specs. Thanks for the specs! My meter is less than amazing (cheap and it's been left out in the rain before) but it showed 11.26k ohms. That seems pretty close to right, given that the meter could be off some. No continuity between the power post or bracket. I think this thing is good! I should get it sent out tomorrow. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #53 Posted December 22, 2019 4 minutes ago, ZXT said: Thanks for the specs! My meter is less than amazing (cheap and it's been left out in the rain before) but it showed 11.26k ohms. That seems pretty close to right, given that the meter could be off some. No continuity between the power post or bracket. I think this thing is good! I should get it sent out tomorrow. Lemme know the freight $$ and I'll send it right over... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #54 Posted December 22, 2019 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: Lemme know the freight $$ and I'll send it right over... Will do! Paypal works for me if it does for you. I'll get you my info when I get it sent out. Same address as last time? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #55 Posted December 22, 2019 5 minutes ago, ZXT said: Same address as last time? Yessir... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,272 #56 Posted December 22, 2019 5 hours ago, Stepney said: . Maybe it's the thinner oil? Not the oil. It is the nature of some of the Eaton 1100s. I have three and one will lift immediately and two require a 5-10 minute warm up depending on the temp. Toro actually issued a bulletin stating " to prevent damage, all Eaton 1100s must be warmed up 10 minutes before using". Maybe Garry will post the bulletin. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #57 Posted December 22, 2019 21 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I've been thinking about picking up a hydro of some sort for at least a year. I'm curious to see what it's like to plow snow with one. This one was found by @Stepney Spenser. Near as he can figure it's a 1970 model year. It needs a changeover from a bad module to a Points ignition system. From there some wiring and a test drive to see how the transmission performs. If all goes well up til then I'll take apart the transmission and change axles and hubs on both sides. Then see where we go..... Take the axles and hubs apart?? Why? Just leaking seals or what? @ebinmaine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #58 Posted December 22, 2019 17 minutes ago, AHS said: Take the axles and hubs apart?? Why? Just leaking seals or what? @ebinmaine Scroll through and check out the video @Stepney posted. It's absolutely comical how loose the hub is.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,443 #59 Posted December 22, 2019 Oh! Duh! Just weld her!😁 but, what is that from... I’ve never seen that before. @ebinmaine 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #60 Posted December 22, 2019 23 minutes ago, AHS said: Oh! Duh! Just weld her!😁 but, what is that from... I’ve never seen that before. @ebinmaine Many of them become loose. If the set screw backs out a bit... Then the owner or shop doesn't catch it.. it just keeps getting exponentially worse. Often the key and keyway will be damaged. They are repairable with the right tools and skills. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #61 Posted December 24, 2019 Eric, I got home late because of traffic and didn't get a chance to drop it off. I will do my best to get it out tomorrow! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #62 Posted December 24, 2019 5 hours ago, ZXT said: Eric, I got home late because of traffic and didn't get a chance to drop it off. I will do my best to get it out tomorrow! No worries man. Don't make a special trip for me. Ain't like I don't have 47000 other things I can't be doin'.... Wait yeah it is ... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #63 Posted January 7, 2020 @pfrederi Paul and whoever else is following this... Sometime in the next few days I need to try to fire up this engine. I'm not familiar with this style of ignition so I'm wondering if there's anything I need to know or if it is simply plug-and-play and try it ... I just want to make sure I'm not going to backfeed something and damage it or whatever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #64 Posted January 8, 2020 Basically check and make sure your ignition switch has an "M" terminal. Beyond that put your Harbor Freight spark plus tester on an crank away. Note it will flash really fast. These systems fire every flywheel rotation 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #65 Posted January 8, 2020 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: Basically check and make sure your ignition switch has an "M" terminal. Beyond that put your Harbor Freight spark plus tester on an crank away. Note it will flash really fast. These systems fire every flywheel rotation I'm learning about the system too. How does the system get power if it only has an M terminal? Something has to feed the coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #66 Posted January 8, 2020 Just now, ZXT said: I'm learning about the system too. How does the system get power if it only has an M terminal? Something has to feed the coil. Breakerless are closer to a Mag system. there is a small part of the stator that feeds the coil via a trigger assembly. That creates a spark. It will run all day with no battery. Like a mag you have to ground it to shut it off. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #67 Posted January 8, 2020 Just now, pfrederi said: Breakerless are closer to a Mag system. there is a small part of the stator that feeds the coil via a trigger assembly. That creates a spark. It will run all day with no battery. Like a mag you have to ground it to shut it off. That makes more sense! Didn't know that it was fed from the stator. Does a breakerless tractor require a different stator than a tractor with a traditional points setup? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #68 Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, ZXT said: That makes more sense! Didn't know that it was fed from the stator. Does a breakerless tractor require a different stator than a tractor with a traditional points setup? Yes it is sometimes called a 3 wire stator. Two are the normal AC output to the regulator one wire feeds the the trigger and coil Edited January 8, 2020 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #69 Posted January 8, 2020 On 12/21/2019 at 6:37 PM, ebinmaine said: I'll still get an arm workout. Or add a lift... Please don't worry about that. I have all those parts on the one I just took the diesel out of. They could just as well be at your house. The hydraulic lift is soooooo nice to use. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stepney 2,325 #70 Posted January 9, 2020 My only thing to add is that you need to be very sure your tester is grounded and the wire is always connected to the plug or ground. Some SSI units can be damaged if the engine is cranked and the ignition wire is not connected to anything. Not sure if the K would do that but I know the older Tecumseh's did. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
12Horse Paladin 1,038 #71 Posted January 9, 2020 Ill be following along😉 Especially when you take a look at/square away your hub issue...hoping there are lotsa pics of that, lol... Good luck with your 1st Auto!😊👍👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #72 Posted January 9, 2020 52 minutes ago, 12Horse Paladin said: when you take a look at/square away your hub issue...hoping there are lotsa pics of that I'll try to remember to get some posted. I've done multiple manuals but this'll be the first hydro I've dismantled. Likely the same basic procedure. Two good axles and two good hubs and I'll be back in business... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,351 #73 Posted January 9, 2020 26 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: multiple manuals but this'll be the first hydro I've dismantled. If you are not going to do any work on the pump/hydrogear unit and are only tackling the axle portion it is a piece of cake, Unbolt the hydrogear unit and suspend it above the tractor then remove the axle unit. A lot less parts in there than on a manual transmission. This thread has a great write-up on the whole hydrogear setup. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
12Horse Paladin 1,038 #74 Posted January 9, 2020 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Two good axles and two good hubs and I'll be back in business... Love your attitude, Sir!👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #75 Posted January 9, 2020 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Two good axles and two good hubs and I'll be back in business... No I won't part this one out for you! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites