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wheelwhores

Plow help!

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wheelwhores

Thanks too all!  I'll have time tomorrow to look at it after family holiday

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wheelwhores

So I was able to look at it a little bit today and what I found out is where the hydraulic lift mounts to the plow must have been disconnected at one time or another and then rewelded onto the a-frame but welded in a way where the pin that grabs onto the hydraulic lift was misaligned and so that's the point where it was binding I ground down and drilled out the pin which look to be a welded in place and that's what you're looking at in this picture. Notice the two eyelets are misaligned

IMG_20191223_141544.jpg

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wheelwhores

I was able to cut off that flat stock bracket with the little angle iron eyelet on it Mark and reference points on the a-frame I will slide it slightly to align better tomorrow about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch and reweld it in place.

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wheelwhores

if I could get some pictures from you guys of how the hydraulic lift arm attaches to the A-frame that would be very helpful I think whoever put this plow on the tractor Jimmy rigged something and that's part of the reason why it's not working as it should.  Is there supposed to be some sort of solid linkage that attaches the hydraulic lift arm to the A-frame?

IMG_20191223_142953.jpg

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wheelwhores

My intuition tells me that there should be some kind of mechanical linkage between the hydraulic lift arm and the attachment point shown on the A-frame in this picture?

IMG_20191223_171046.jpg

IMG_20191223_171034.jpg

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wheelwhores

The brown lines on the a-frame rails are registration marks where the flat stock with the angle iron eyelet was welded.

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wallfish

Yes, you can bypass that chain and arm which is used for a mower deck and go with a straight link directly to the plow frame.

That plow frame is not necessarily designed for that tractor yet it fits and will work. To make a solid link take the measurement between the holes with the lift all the way up and the plow frame lifted up and supported in the raised position. This will ensure it doesn't bind to a mechanical limit when you lift it. You can use 1/4" x 1 or 1.5" bar stock and drill the 2 holes.

Using the chain does allow for much more float movement of the blade on uneven terrain. The solid link will allow for some down pressure. There are pros and cons to each for your type of setup. Adding a small angle piece with a longer slot hole to replace the existing one will allow for more float movement using the solid link.

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Rfp55

For now while cold - I might add a 2-3" high 1/2" thick rubber scraper bar ( like scrap tire tread) on the plow bolts. Your bar looks good, but if it was more like the bottom pic in post #25 I'd do it definitely to save what is left. When it's nice out in spring, you might re-engineer the brackets, worn, or interfering pieces of frame/pivot. On side note, I took gauge wheels off a deck and mounted them where skid pads would be so blade would float about 1/8" off ground and not drag normally. 

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WVHillbilly520H
On 12/23/2019 at 6:13 PM, wheelwhores said:

My intuition tells me that there should be some kind of mechanical linkage between the hydraulic lift arm and the attachment point shown on the A-frame in this picture?

IMG_20191223_171046.jpg

IMG_20191223_171034.jpg

 

On 12/23/2019 at 6:15 PM, wheelwhores said:

The brown lines on the a-frame rails are registration marks where the flat stock with the angle iron eyelet was welded.

This is how remedied that situation... 

I still haven't gotten around to the the angle from lever or push/pull rod for the blade angle mechanism either but hopefully it helps.

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wheelwhores

thanks all.  I ended up just using a stainless d clip with a nut on one side as a stop gap during this plow season.  I have an idea of how to fix with a piece of angle iron this spring once my garage warms up.

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WVHillbilly520H
On 12/23/2019 at 6:09 PM, wheelwhores said:

if I could get some pictures from you guys of how the hydraulic lift arm attaches to the A-frame that would be very helpful I think whoever put this plow on the tractor Jimmy rigged something and that's part of the reason why it's not working as it should.  Is there supposed to be some sort of solid linkage that attaches the hydraulic lift arm to the A-frame?

IMG_20191223_142953.jpg

@wheelwhores... Here this may be what you are looking for... And the pin you ground off and removed was for the mower deck but you can replace it come spring.

Screenshot_2017-01-16-19-23-40.png

IMAG3553.jpg

IMAG3556.jpg

IMAG3557.jpg

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wheelwhores

awesome thanks!

 

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wheelwhores

yeah, once spring roles around i'll have much more time to get in there and convert it back to the proper setup.  What are peoples thoughts on the downforce versus floating setup.  It would be nice to put pressure down on the plow, but i'm already running into steering 'traction' issues with front tires not grabbing at times....seems like plow down pressure would magnify that.  I was thinking of maybe just adding a small weight bracket to the blade for added down force while still allowing tires to engage...

 

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SylvanLakeWH

I use a chain...no down pressure.

I plow 2 older asphalt drives and one concrete drive with some crack heaves... floating preserves the asphalt and makes for smoother ride over the concrete cracks...

works fine for me...

 

:twocents-02cents:

 

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