Guest 88vic #1 Posted December 20, 2019 Anyone have experience in using 00 grease/oil in a wheel horse transmission ? Just curious. Thanks. Brady. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #2 Posted December 20, 2019 3 minutes ago, WHEELHORSEFAN*16 said: Anyone have experience in using 00 grease/oil in a wheel horse transmission ? Just curious. Thanks. Brady. Never used it in a transmission, but I have used in leaky/worn out steering boxes and it worked well. I know it is used on gear boxes on farm equipment and the like. With that said, I can't see what it would hurt to run in a manual, but don't put it in a Hydro! Of course this just my .. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #3 Posted December 20, 2019 What is that viscosity? I'm not familiar with it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,219 #4 Posted December 20, 2019 What is 00 grease/oil? Olive oil? Why would you want to use it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,771 #5 Posted December 20, 2019 (edited) "00" is a grease, not an oil. it is for the Big Box Store throw-away mowers that have a transmission without proper bearings and is only designed to last a couple years. The bearings in your transaxle need to have oil that is designed to cling to them and be circulated by the gears rotating in the sump. Edited December 20, 2019 by 953 nut fat finger 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #6 Posted December 20, 2019 Its basically one step away from being solid grease . Imo . 90/w only Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,721 #7 Posted December 20, 2019 agree with above on the zero rating , that does not apply to older style gearbox, you could go 75x90 wt gear oil and it would help in cold conditions, my own opinion , is that , REGULARLY CHANGING TRANSMISSION OIL IS VITAL ,. another thing is to regularly use every gear and hi/lo ranges to cycle every phase of operation. i have taken a stiff and hard shifting transmission, and put ROAD TIME ON IT , to heat it up and then flush it out with a lighter atf fluid or kerosene in operation. usually its a couple of these flush cycles that make a transmission operate like new, it just takes time. only my opinion , have a good holiday, pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #8 Posted December 20, 2019 Agree with Pete. And others. Diesel fuel also works for a great flush. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #9 Posted December 20, 2019 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: "00" is a grease, not an oil. it is for the Big Box Store throw-away mowers that have a transmission without proper bearings and is only designed to last a couple years. The bearings in your transaxle need to have oil that is designed to cling to them and be circulated by the gears rotating in the sump. It may be a grease, but it is pour-able. It's very thin grease. It's been being used in rotary cutters and other gearboxes forever.. and even in Model A transmissions. It's certainly not only for throw-away mowers. If he has a transmission that is a little loose and leaks, I don't see what harm it would do.. If it is circulated by the gears and clings to bearings in other gearboxes, it ought to do the same here. That said, I wouldn't go out of my way to use it in a transmission that is in good shape. There just wouldn't be any point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,159 #10 Posted December 20, 2019 Never heard of it either. Is it like corn head grease? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #11 Posted December 20, 2019 6 minutes ago, WHX24 said: Never heard of it either. Is it like corn head grease? Yes i have heard it called that. I remember my dad using that term growing up on the farm. I used to ask him do we get it from the field. I was real young then! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #12 Posted December 20, 2019 DO NOT USE THIS GREASE!!! These transmissions are made to throw the oil around inside the transmission case, thus lubing things that do not set in the amount of oil that is usually in the trans. Anything to thick will not get passed the #1533 bearing and properly lubricate the bearings in the outer axle. While we are on it...you also DO NOT want to over fill these manual transmissions. If anyone on here gets a chance, take your manual transmission and put it on the bench...put on the intake shaft pulley and hook it up to a 1/3 hp electric motor, with a fan belt. Put it in any gear and plug it in. Look down where the shifter goes and see the oil storm inside the case. You will see why 90wt is the best choice for these transmissions. 3 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,159 #13 Posted December 20, 2019 The master has spoken! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #14 Posted December 20, 2019 20 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: DO NOT want to over fill these manual transmissions Steve let me just say I'm not arguing one way or the other. I'm just curious. Would the max fill point be considered the top of the drain plug at the left rear? What happens if these get overfilled? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-85 698 #15 Posted December 20, 2019 My first encounter with this '00' was when I was fixing an older (way older) Snapper snow blower for a friend, that's what that used in its front end gear box. Since then I've kept some of it on hand, I use it on snowblower chute controls, like when they all used a worm drive and other things and it works great on stuff like that. It lubes and stays put for the most part. Along these lines, we used to use SAE 250 in the gear box cases of large reel gang mowers (like Toro and Jacobsen). This is the heaviest and thickest oil that i ever used! C-85 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,159 #16 Posted December 20, 2019 5 minutes ago, C-85 said: that's what that used in its front end gear box We were kicking around using it in the front gearbox of a deuce awhile back in a blower rebuild thread. Manual calls for 80/90 tho. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,219 #17 Posted December 20, 2019 31 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Steve let me just say I'm not arguing one way or the other. I'm just curious. Would the max fill point be considered the top of the drain plug at the left rear? What happens if these get overfilled? Overfilling could hinder the splashing You can fill until it flows out the fill plug or, as I have done for years, 1 1/2 qt in 3 and 4 speeds and 2 qt in 6 and 8 speeds. There's a chart around here someplace that also follows these amounts. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #18 Posted December 20, 2019 3 minutes ago, Racinbob said: Overfilling could hinder the splashing You can fill until it flows out the fill plug or, as I have done for years, 1 1/2 qt in 3 and 4 speeds and 2 qt in 6 and 8 speeds. There's a chart around here someplace that also follows these amounts. Thanks mr. Bob. Until today I was not aware that a transmission had a splash effect like an engine does. That's the fill amount that I've been sticking to as well.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #19 Posted December 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Racinbob said: Overfilling could hinder the splashing You can fill until it flows out the fill plug or, as I have done for years, 1 1/2 qt in 3 and 4 speeds and 2 qt in 6 and 8 speeds. There's a chart around here someplace that also follows these amounts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #20 Posted December 20, 2019 Here is the deal...if you have a dip stick (newer trannys)...you also have the fill plug on the left side of the transmission. Go with the dip sick. If you do not have a dip stick, you still have the fill plug on the left. Go with that...it should be pretty close to the same amount...1/12 qts to 2 qts. You cannot go wrong with that information. Something to think about...if you pull out the fill plug on the left side of the trans and no oil seeps out...you are low on the level of oil that needs to be in there...whether you have a dip stick or not!! These trannys are from 1958 and they are still going strong...90 wt oil...end of discussion!! The only exemption is what happened with the shift rails and the oil suction issue. Fix that and you are still at 90 wt. 1960 to 1967?? @Racinbob 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #21 Posted December 20, 2019 Eric, if you over fill these transmissions, you will not get the oil thrown around like you need. Please...if anyone gets a chance...put the trans on a bench and belt it to a 1/3 hp or another horse to look down into the shift hole. When you see how the oil is thrown around, it will tell you tons about these transmissions. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,219 #22 Posted December 20, 2019 (edited) 44 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: These trannys are from 1958 and they are still going strong...90 wt oil...end of discussion!! The only exemption is what happened with the shift rails and the oil suction issue. Fix that and you are still at 90 wt. 1960 to 1967?? @Racinbob That service bulletin about the shift rails and stop pin is #60 issued 1-15-65. I'm betting they still used up any old rails they had on hand. The bulletin about using 40 wt to help alleviate the problem was somewhere before that. They had changed the owners manuals to 40 wt and when they changed the rails they neglected to change the owners manuals back for a bit (knowing the Ponds, probably using up what they already had printed). Keep in mind that this only pertains to the 2 piece case trannys. The 3 piece didn't have the suction issue. I'm with professor Stevasaurus on the 90 wt...………..period. Been playing with these things for 60 years and it works. Edited December 20, 2019 by Racinbob 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #23 Posted December 21, 2019 40w motor oil has been working in my L107 for 52 years and she is used year round. We have a tendency to Over think this oil/lubrication stuff. these are not high speed high stress trannies. Change whatever you use and keep the water out and they will outlive you!!!! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quahog 14 #24 Posted April 26, 2020 After a few years of absence on this forum , I checked the owners manual on my 856 , states 40 WT . I had a look and it is more like a 90 wt inside Feel and smell.. Time for spring service and all . Seems either will do the job is the feeling out there. I do have some 140 GL 4 lube for my Ariens tiller . Any thoughts ? quahog Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #25 Posted April 26, 2020 3 minutes ago, quahog said: After a few years of absence on this forum , I checked the owners manual on my 856 , states 40 WT . I had a look and it is more like a 90 wt inside Feel and smell.. Time for spring service and all . Seems either will do the job is the feeling out there. I do have some 140 GL 4 lube for my Ariens tiller . Any thoughts ? quahog We have a 657, 867, 1974 b80 and 1974 c-160. I use 80w 90 in all of those. I don't know the technical difference between 40w motor oil and 90w gear oil. Others will pop in with info about that. 140 weight would be okay during the summer but could be a bit cheesy during the winter season. I know from experience because we use ours to plow that even the 90 weight takes a few minutes to get moving if it's super cold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites