Blue horse 656 repower

[ebinmaine 67,266]

I think that switch is a part number 103990.

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

Here's a link to a thread that has several types of wiring diagrams

 

 

 

 

 

[MikMacMike 479]

8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Here's a link to a thread that has several types of wiring diagrams

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure to book mark the link Ebinmaine gave you, I was in the same boat and when they sent me the link I knew over the week I was going to have to refer to it a few times. Especially since I had an automotive key switch, once I had the wiring roughed in I made a schematic of it and posted it in here for second opinions. All these boys have been working on WH's for so long everything is like the back of there hands. The schematic I made for mine will go right into a folder specifically for my wheel hose. That way its right there when ever I need it.

[MikMacMike 479]

On 12/25/2019 at 8:41 AM, Gordyhogg said:

 

Here it is!

ITS ALIVE!

[MikMacMike 479]

Make sure Shes not Idling too low, I read somewhere I think Kohler page I forget now. that there is a min they like to see them idle at because its a splash oiling system, unlike the newer with pressurized oiling. Such a sweet sound eh!

[ebinmaine 67,266]

5 hours ago, MikMacMike said:

Make sure Shes not Idling too low, I read somewhere I think Kohler page I forget now. that there is a min they like to see them idle at because its a splash oiling system, unlike the newer with pressurized oiling. Such a sweet sound eh!

Yepp.

 

Most of em are around 1200 RPM idle.

 

[MikMacMike 479]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Yepp.

 

Most of em are around 1200 RPM idle.

 

Hi 5 Ebinmaine....I will keep that as mental note when I do 1st start up and tuning the gov & carb. Oh sheesh I might have to rig something for a tach??

[ebinmaine 67,266]

30 minutes ago, MikMacMike said:

Hi 5 Ebinmaine....I will keep that as mental note when I do 1st start up and tuning the gov & carb. Oh sheesh I might have to rig something for a tach??

Many of us just do it by ear.

 

Better to have the idle a little higher to be on the safe side.

 

My Cinnamon Horse k341 likes to idle at about 1350. Runs a little rough below that but the carb needs a bushing.

 

[Gordyhogg 150]

Thanks guys i did end up turning it up a bit after the video runs really good! I can't wait to get the wiring taken care of hopefully this weekend

[MikMacMike 479]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Many of us just do it by ear.

 

Better to have the idle a little higher to be on the safe side.

 

My Cinnamon Horse k341 likes to idle at about 1350. Runs a little rough below that but the carb needs a bushing.

 

When I didnt have time to wait for a bushing kit on a 4bbl quadrajet I sanded down a O ring.....it got me by for about 6 months. it wasnt perfect but did make a huge difference.

[Gordyhogg 150]

I picked up a small battery and got the wiring started well enough that i actually got to test drive it! Still need to work on wiring the charging system but i noticed the smell of burning belt while i was driving it...found the reason why but i cant tell if these are factory welds or not...the belt keeper that is on the idler pulley that stops the belt when you push the clutch in is rubbing hard on the belt because the keeper is too far back and welded in place...hars enough its actually starting to wear in. the one on my commando 8 moves when you loosen the bolt that holds the pulley on because it is supposed to be adjustable...any ideas?

[Pullstart 62,784]

Yep, that’s welded.  Could you tweak the tab with a crescent wrench?

[Gordyhogg 150]

I could do that...but what im so confused about is why its welded this way. The picture i have in post #61 is with the clutch out. With the clutch pushed in this keeper does absolutely nothing to stop the belt. I didn't have my belt gaurd on while i was riding it which could be part of the reason i had to put a boot on the belt to stop so i could shift...but im still questioning this weld...ill also note one of the p.o.'s cut the fender a bit where this pulley sits...they didn't take any metal just made relief cuts...also i found this a while back thought id share it

 

Edited December 29, 2019 by Gordyhogg

[ebinmaine 67,266]

2 minutes ago, Gordyhogg said:

I didn't have my belt gaurd on while i was riding it which could be part of the reason i had to put a boot on the belt to stop so i could shift...but im still questioning this weld...ill also note one of the p.o.'s cut the fender a bit where this pulley sits

The belt GUARD is NECESSARY because it is your belt GUIDE. You can't shift without that in place on 99% of Wheelhorse tractors.

 

I would say that weld was done by a previous owner who had less than a clue of what they were doing.

Follow the diagram in the picture you posted above and you'll get yourself back out of a jam.

[Gordyhogg 150]

I know im supposed to have it on there but the belt is still contacting the piece welded in place...should i try to cut it off? Or is this idler arm replaceable?maybe i can find one that's not welded so i can adjust it properly...I'd have to look aft the one on my commando again before i do anything

Edited December 29, 2019 by Gordyhogg

[ebinmaine 67,266]

7 minutes ago, Gordyhogg said:

maybe i can find one that's not welded so i can adjust it properly

That might be the best course of action.

[ebinmaine 67,266]

21 minutes ago, Gordyhogg said:

 

 

This picture makes me wonder if the belt is a little too long which would result in the idler pulley going up to high. That may be why the PO relief cut the fender pan.

Baffling to me the logic that some people use....

 

I like the idea of you taking a closer look at your Commando as long as they both have the same pedal setup.

 

[Gordyhogg 150]

I never thought about that eb...ill compare it to the belt on my.commando. i know for sure that the one on my commando is adjustable...ill have to see how its set up and go from there. 

[MikMacMike 479]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

This picture makes me wonder if the belt is a little too long which would result in the idler pulley going up to high. That may be why the PO relief cut the fender pan.

Baffling to me the logic that some people use....

 

I like the idea of you taking a closer look at your Commando as long as they both have the same pedal setup.

 

wow, is that an 8 speed? My pully is much larger.......hence it would take up more slack in the belt....chk this out>

[Gordyhogg 150]

I just found this picture on a post that @prondzy posted...is the belt tab on the idler pulley on your 856 welded the same as mine? Mines a 656 same chassis...i swear its a factory weld just confusing why its not foreward more or asjustable like my commando

[MikMacMike 479]

4 hours ago, Gordyhogg said:

I just found this picture on a post that @prondzy posted...is the belt tab on the idler pulley on your 856 welded the same as mine? Mines a 656 same chassis...i swear its a factory weld just confusing why its not foreward more or asjustable like my commando

No mine hasnt it yet but I will be adding it soon, I baught my set up from a young guy west of me and it was for another WH that didnt have that tab.....its good to have so when your clutch is depressed and as your engine pully is still running this helps to keep the belt stopped, but more so it also keep the belt on the pully while there can be belt vibrations when engaged. I just havnt gotten to mine yet.

Oh I forgot to mention one thing though, depending on what size your front pully is, if it is the same size as mine, then with that smaller rear pully your speed through all gears will have increased. I cant see the front pully so cant make that judgement visually.  I do travel from yard to yard and a higher top speed would come in handy and because I have the 8 speed which has Hi and low I could still pull decently but I woulddefinately loose a percentage of pulling power. I had changed from Hydro to the 8 speed and all Ive ever used was hydrostat. Some come test day in real world usage I hope to get that answer.

Edited December 29, 2019 by MikMacMike

[Pullstart 62,784]

I see that this Horse has had a yellow and red base at one point.  The blue was something special as a business/commercial paint or something?  

[prondzy 3,881]

8 hours ago, Gordyhogg said:

I just found this picture on a post that @prondzy posted...is the belt tab on the idler pulley on your 856 welded the same as mine? Mines a 656 same chassis...i swear its a factory weld just confusing why its not foreward more or asjustable like my commando

Yes its welded

[Gordyhogg 150]

@prondzy so if yours is welded too then am i just crazy? This could just be the wromg size belt...im not sure it seemed to go on fine and the clutch has proper travel. Ill just have to put on the belt gaurd and see if my problems disappear. By the way @MikMacMike no this is not an 8 speed its just the original 3 speed and stock pulleys.

[Gordyhogg 150]

I have another question for you all. So i have the starting and ignition circuits wired up. I havent wired the charging system yet. Does it matter which order the two wires come from the stator go on the voltage regulator? I know the third one goes up to the key switch. No diagram ive found does anything to explain this...can anyone shed some light on this? Im using the one on the bottom

Edited December 30, 2019 by Gordyhogg