Remodel question...Is this a load bearing wall?

[953 nut 57,921]

22 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Modulars are brought in in sections, assembled then finnished.

My point was that the roof trusses on a modular home is not continuous from outside wall to outside wall. The two truss halves are supported by a beam running down the center and the beams are screwed together on site. They need suport  where they were joined. Even if the roof section is placed after the walls are up they are not a continuous truss unless they are less than 14feet.

We have modulars around here that are two story homes with basements that came on eight or ten trailers and are connected and finished on site, but every stick of lumber where the sections join is load bearing. I watched the process on one up the street and there were 2 X 2 faming members on each side of two units that joined to become s single standard thickness wall. The drywall was finished on both interior sides and once the openings were finished you would never know. 

Edited December 14, 2019 by 953 nut

[JoeM 7,929]

Might want to take a stud finder to those walls and see what is inside. If it is standard wall construction, it is not holding anything, just for looks. Like @ACman said, if there is noting in the basement no support on top. 

[rmaynard 15,919]

Where does your sink vent? Could the columns be hiding a plumbing vent and maybe some electrical to the ceiling lights?

[82Caddy 851]

Couple answers to solve most of the questions asked.

 

It's a Verndale built house. Seems that Verndale Custom Homes of the North (who sold/installed this house) was a distributor of what is now Verndale Custom Builders.  There was a bankruptcy of some sort and the name was changed to Verndale Custom Builders.  They still build houses in the same plant this house was built in, so that's cool.

 

I finally managed to get a hold of the right person at Verndale Custom Builders that has been with the company for 30+ years as one of their drafters.  While she didn't have access to my specific plans anymore (I emailed them to her while we were talking) and she was able to confirm that that wall is NOT load bearing.  I also learned that this house was built and transported as single unit and set on an ICF basement walls.  She was unsure if the venting for the sink runs through that post setup or not but doesn't think it does.  Roof is made of scissor trusses with about 1.5ft of attic space and access is from the outside and is a sealed space.  I'm going to try and avoid going up there at all costs but I fear it's going to happen in order to put some can lights and such in that my wife (her name is Alex btw) wants installed.  The electric in the partial wall doesn't go into the ceiling from there.  It goes through an exterior wall on their builds.

 

So I guess that solves this mystery.  Not load bearing and will be getting ripped out the end of January.

 

Thanks for all the input and ideas guys, I really do appreciate it.

[rmaynard 15,919]

Glad you got your answer. 

[19richie66 17,577]

I would say no. 

[WHX?? 50,739]

Yer such a hoot Richie. ..

Nice to hear they got back to you Caddy... keep us posted on her efforts... bet she gets it done faster than Kev's  @pullstart projects! 

[Pullstart 64,555]

Priorities, man!  Carb’s cleaned, oil’s fresh, transmission is next!

 

 

[ACman 7,630]

@82Caddy that also answered a question that I had but didn’t put it out there in my post . Others probably seen the same thing and it was that there was a distinctive merger wall down the middle of the house that most modular homes have . The one @953 nut and I mentioned . They built and moved the whole thing at once.

Edited December 17, 2019 by ACman

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

I just saw your post, an X on a plan normally shows a load point. If the roof does not have a structural ridge there might be 2 strong backs running from left side to right side helping to support the roof. It appears the are no collar ties, I was also trying to read the shaded area on the plan but could not make it out. If those are load points they will continue through the floor below, either to a footing or double / triple floor joists. They would never get point loaded on top of plywood or a single joist. Do you have a roof framing plan? Or floor joist plan? Truss roof would normally free span the distance. If you have anything else, I would like to see it. Plan notes etc. Your best bet is the manufacturer, they designed it and would know. Imho, the wall might not mean anything, but those X 's on the plan for posting a load point do. That one page isnt enough to determine. But if you can see whats down below, basement, crawl space etc. Below those 2 points you will find out for sure. Dont do anything till your sure, trust me. I have seen MANY mistakes in my career as a superintendant for a builder and building inspector. Wish there was more I could tell you. I never saw a modular with an open span volume ceiling as that, just curious. Will be following this thread along.

 

Edit: I see you got the manufacturer to answer you. Very good. And they designated such as a chase for venting. Excellent, now you can proceed with out worry. It is ALWAYS best to find out as you did, it insures NO PROBLEMS, which is the best thing instead of taking a chance. 

 

Glenn

Edited December 16, 2019 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn
Additional reply.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

One more comment. I see the sink in your countertop. It will need to be vented. There is something called a STUDOR vent, its illegal in NJ but accepted as a proper venting method in many states. I use to hear the plumbing inspectors talk about them. They install under the cabinet, out of sight.  Best of luck on your project.

 

Glenn

[953 nut 57,921]

2 hours ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

There is something called a STUDOR vent

    In most places if you have at least one 2" vent above the roof Studors are OK to us.

[JCM 10,021]

From personal experience being a Master Plumber in Mass, New Hampshire and Maine all three states go by different Plumbing Codes, Mass has their own code, New Hampshire goes by the International code and Maine by the Uniform code. In Mass and Maine they are not allowed, and in New Hampshire they are allowed with some restrictions. It would be a heck of a lot simpler if every State would be Governed by the same code so we would not have to study 3 different code books and take code classes and fee's and new code books  and exams and the list goes on and on and wonder why we have to charge what we do to earn a living. Sorry for the rant. Just my   .  I almost forgot, to vent a sink properly when there is no vertical or outside wall to do so the preferred way is to install an Island or Bow vent which is much more complicated but the correct way to vent in some States.

[rmaynard 15,919]

Many houses today are built "open-concept" with sinks and dishwasher in an island. An under-counter vent is the only way to vent them. 

[82Caddy 851]

Thanks for the the suggestions and potential work around ideas guys.  It sure makes going into something like this easier with a better idea of what issues might come up.  I'm not sure where the sink vents and haven't looked into it when we did the inspection or looked at the house to begin with.  Didn't even cross my mind to look for it.  We close in 45 days or so and I'll know more then.

 

Quick google says that studor vents are not allowed in Minnesota so I guess we'll see what's going on under the sink in a few weeks.

[WHX?? 50,739]

15 hours ago, JCM said:

lot simpler if every State would be Governed by the same code

I'll second that! 

Quick text to my plumbing buddy says they are legal in WI. Looks like you gotta move the place here Caddy. He also says they are legal in every state you don't get caught! 

[82Caddy 851]

38 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

I'll second that! 

Quick text to my plumbing buddy says they are legal in WI. Looks like you gotta move the place here Caddy. He also says they are legal in every state you don't get caught! 

 

I was thinking the same thing...which if all goes to plan, wouldn't have to worry about that for another 30 or more years...

[953 nut 57,921]

Here is a good picture of the vent system that you will probably want to go with. It will need to go all the way to the bottom of your counter top.Not hard to do and should pass any code.

[82Caddy 851]

14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Here is a good picture of the vent system that you will probably want to go with. It will need to go all the way to the bottom of your counter top.Not hard to do and should pass any code.

 

That's probably the correct way to do this if the vent does run though one of those columns.  I'm not sure where the bathroom in the basement vents out, maybe I can tie the two together.  I'll have to find that out as well.

 

There is going to be quite a bit of demo going on in this house before it gets better. 

 

I also talked to a local lumber yard (not Home Depot/Menards), an actual lumber yard about a micro-laminated beam for the basement.  Super crude drawing via MS Paint my wife and I have been working on that closer reflects the current basement setup (for reference: flipped shower/sauna, moved toiled and sink to actual location, added walk out basement door, added closet space by walkout door)  Obviously these are not to scale...

 

 

Since neither of us like that giant Jacuzzi tub, its got to go and then that leaves this funky shaped room that you can't really do much with.  We'd like to remove all the walls in red, add a micro-laminated or steel beam (blue line) to open up that entire room. We're (I saw we and by we I mean me) going to move the basement bedroom doors out to match the backs of the closets and add a wall (yellow) to remove that alcove useless space.  I'll have to hire an electrician once we get to that point but for demo it'll be alright for now.

 

We've got some big plans for this house and I'd like to have the main floor wrapped up for demo/repair/paint in the first two weeks.  Going to be some long nights to make it happen.

[JCM 10,021]

@82Caddy    If you decide that you have to install that Island or Bow vent as you see where the 11/2'' horizontal PVC drain runs horizontal then vertical up through the cabinet then picks up the 11/2'' P Trap then continues up to an 1 1/2''  45 then 90 then another 45 degree fitting under the counter top then back down through the floor it then needs an 1 1/2'' ty fitting then re-connects to the horizontal drain, at the ty, called a foot vent it then runs horizontally to the nearest partition where it must run vertically to at least 6'' above the flood level rim of the fixture it serves, you then can pipe that at 1/4'' in per foot until you can find another vent to tie into or run that to the attic and go through the roof separate, in most states you must increase the size to 2'' at least 1 foot below the roof in an insulated space so you don't get frost closure on the vent outside which would render the vent useless. In most cases installing the correct vents are costly and are not as easy to do as some would think. Just wanted you to know you can not drop that vent to the basement to connect to an existing vent even if there may be one. Just my        Hope this helps.

[82Caddy 851]

Signed all the paperwork yesterday.  It feels good to be homeowners again, however was a little depressing to see that payoff date is in 2050. 

 

Instead of starting a new topic, I'll just ask here.  I'm in need of a new miter saw for trim/finish work.  I currently have a harbor freight sliding compound saw that I'm tired of.  I've spend hours setting it up and getting it fine tuned to work decently well.  It lacks the precision and accuracy I'd like to achieve for the finish work I want for the interior touches of this new house.  I'll keep it as a backup/rough cut saw for things that can live with the ish method of measuring.

 

So, what miter saws do you guys use and like?  

[Pullstart 64,555]

Congrats Reid!  I have a 12” Craftsman compound miter that does everything I need it to do.  I even have a blade I use for aluminum only and it does wonderful.

[19richie66 17,577]

I have a 12” Dewalt saw that I have had for at least 15 years and still works like a champ. 

[82Caddy 851]

1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

I have a 12” Dewalt saw that I have had for at least 15 years and still works like a champ. 

 

I've been eyeballing the DWS779 (~350$) and adding the XPS lighting system (~90$) essential making the older saw the current model DWS780 (~535$) for about 100$ less then the current model.  Need to do some more research on this subject.

[82Caddy 851]

Ended up with an open box DWS779 out the door for a little over 250$ from home depot.  It's missing material clamps (that I don't use) so no big loss there and the manual (would throw out anyhow, that's why I have the internet).  Also bought the XPS guide system and a 60T blade.  Alex surprised me with a Milwaukee finish nailer so I'm pretty much set to rip into this place and put it back together.  Only 12 more days until the fun begins...