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Anthony Wendover

Dual stage wood block snowblower tensioner

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Anthony Wendover

Hey guys i just got a dual stage blower yesterday which was perfect for the large storm we are getting. However i just went out to blow after yesterday and the augur wasn't moving i saw the chain came off.. So i got the chain back on but the tensioner is gone. Does anyone have a picture of one? I never saw it before it took off and i need to mock something up hopefully to finish blowing snow tonight thank you!

 

edit

 

or dimensions for it. i have lots of wood here but dont know the exact size or location for it.. again thank you!

Edited by Anthony Wendover

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gwest_ca

May not be the correct year but the block in the IPL (illustrated parts list) page 4 is item #34.

There is also a poor picture in the operator manual of the block.

Some owners have replaced the block with an idler sprocket that is available from a tractor supply. I'm sure someone that has done this will explain.

 

Garry

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lynnmor

My block was 1.51 x 1.37 x 2.19.  The 1.37 is the height to the chain.

 

Holes are .34 with a .75 counter-bore .42 deep and 1.21 apart and .50 from flat side.

 

Note that these dimensions are from a wood block and are not real accurate.  The only thing that really matters is that your holes match.

 

Here are some photos, note that the groove is entirely wear from the chain.

 

IMG_1928.JPG.714305783fc18ffc8a45533a2392123c.JPGIMG_1930.JPG.f09e19d207e10c50278372b7183583b3.JPG

 

 

Edited by lynnmor
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WHX??

Bit confused here guys ...mine is a nylon block?:scratchead:

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JCM

@WHX24      Jim, I bought my 44''  2  stage when it was 4 years old and it still has the original hardwood tensioner block on it, if I remember correctly I think a member on here suggested to make a new one out of nylon as the original one from TORO is NLA. Mine is a 1997 Model.

Edited by JCM
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WHX??
15 minutes ago, JCM said:

@WHX24       original one from TORO is NLA.

Good thing mine is in decent shape yet then but I don't plan on it staying that way we get snow, pretty sure it is OEM tho...any idea what year yours is JM? 

Best pic I could get without  taking the top guard off.

20191202_200625.jpg

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JCM

Yes, I put it in the post, initially forgot it then added it. Pretty sure it is a 1997

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WHX??

Interesting ... thought mine was a 98 or 99 but might be later never bothered to check. My bad you did. 

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Anthony Wendover

thank you gyts

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

My block was 1.51 x 1.37 x 2.19.  The 1.37 is the height to the chain.

 

Holes are .34 with a .75 counter-bore .42 deep and 1.21 apart and .50 from flat side.

 

Note that these dimensions are from a wood block and are not real accurate.  The only thing that really matters is that your holes match.

 

Here are some photos, note that the groove is entirely wear from the chain.

 

IMG_1928.JPG.714305783fc18ffc8a45533a2392123c.JPGIMG_1930.JPG.f09e19d207e10c50278372b7183583b3.JPG

 

Thank you so much this was a huge help!!!! Got something made up quick to get the driveway finished for the night. Didnt get any pictures but to get through i just got a 2x4 piece of lumber and made one up.. Ill have to get pictures when it warms up. Thank you again big life saver tonight!

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 

 

 

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WHX??

Good to hear Anthony.

Garry has piqued my interest in the idler fix. @WVHillbilly520H or @Kurt-NEPA ever heard of this or something to add?

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wallfish

I'm pretty sure the newer ones went to using nylon for the block instead of wood. Many remove the blocks go to an idler sprocket as I did. Mine was also wood and it kept loosing the chain and wore down the teeth on the small gear. Fixed permanently with a sprocket . 

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lynnmor

The wood is very dense and hard, I can't imagine a soft wood like from a pine 2 x 4 will last very long.  I replaced my wood block with one I made from nylon.

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WVHillbilly520H
9 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Good thing mine is in decent shape yet then but I don't plan on it staying that way we get snow, pretty sure it is OEM tho...any idea what year yours is JM? 

Best pic I could get without  taking the top guard off.

20191202_200625.jpg

Where's the chain lube? And yes when I rebuilt mine TORO only offered the nylon block vs the wood... And if I ever replace it again it will be a sprocket.

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WHX??
2 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Where's the chain lube?

Good eye Billy... was still in the shop and I prefer to spray it down when outside and turning... less messy that way! 

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gwest_ca

You could get 5 or 6 sprockets for the price of a replacement nylon block from Toro

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-108959/

 

Garry

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lynnmor

Or you could make about 8 of them out of nylon from McMaster for $36.67 plus tax & shipping.

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SPINJIM
11 hours ago, wallfish said:

Fixed permanently with a sprocket . 

 Hey wallfish.  Any chance of getting a picture of the idler sprocket set up that you're using?

    Thanks,   Jim

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gwest_ca

Sproket Idler with ball bearing & bushings.jpg

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WHX??
3 hours ago, SPINJIM said:

 Hey wallfish.  Any chance of getting a picture of the idler sprocket set up that you're using?

    Thanks,   Jim

:text-yeahthat:

 

4 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

get 5 or 6 sprockets for the price of a replacement nylon block from Toro

Just like the skid shoes 60 a piece?!?!? come on TORO.... guess I'll be making a pair.... 

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WVHillbilly520H

I think this may be what we are all after... @Kurt-NEPA or @wallfish?

56a7db7cc8a29_ChainIdler.thumb.jpg.057ea7ebdaac3e431986d22e3ec56180.jpg

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SPINJIM
1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

I think this may be what we are all after... @Kurt-NEPA or @wallfish?

56a7db7cc8a29_ChainIdler.thumb.jpg.057ea7ebdaac3e431986d22e3ec56180.jpg

 

 

Does that come from Toro as a complete assembly, or did you have to fabricate the bracket?   I want one.

Edited by SPINJIM
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WVHillbilly520H
18 minutes ago, SPINJIM said:

 

 

Does that come from Toro as a complete assembly, or did you have to fabricate the bracket?   I want one.

I believe one the guys I mentioned above fabbed it up... No TORO sorry.

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wallfish

Right now I have a 17 tooth sprocket installed but it's easier to do with one of these smaller 10 tooth sprockets to tension the outside of the chain loop between the other 2 sprockets. I also shortened the chain to get it tight but had to use a half link.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/736-IS-810-Sprocket-Idler-10-tooth-3-8-x-1-84-thick-40-41-chain/252136835235?hash=item3ab486c8a3:g:rCkAAOSwsRVb0MJ0

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTER-LINK-1x-40-1R-O-L-Off-Links-Half-Links-Roller-Chain-Brand-New/292916435437?hash=item44332e19ed:g:DCsAAOSwa1ZcOhWv

 

My 17 tooth idler bolts right to the OEM piece without an additional bracket. Doing this will not work unless the chain is shortened and tight on the 2 drive sprockets. Will see if I can get some pics

56a7db7cc8a29_ChainIdler.thumb.jpg.057ea7ebdaac3e431986d22e3ec56180.jpg.228f069233cbedd1171f1fc661da3c4d.jpg.0b182b3d6025819b906abddd75cb52ab.jpg

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Kurt-NEPA

This was my fabrication.   I had to add the silver extension so that the sprocket clears the frame.  I did have to change the chain length.  Its been working perfectly for 3 years now.

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fishdoktor

Can someone show me how to mount this, I have the red bracket, just don't see where to mount it thanks.

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