cpete1 332 #1 Posted November 16, 2019 I managed to get a snow blade that had the front edge wore down to halfway through the holes that would normally be the bolt holes for the cutting edge. I'm figuring on cutting the steel of the blade a couple inches up on the blade and putting in new steel. Does anybody have a close-up picture of the bottom edge of the plow. I'm trying to get an idea of how far below the steel channel, the plow steel protrudes. I did a quick fix last year but the temp edge I put on folded back a bit under the blade. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,125 #2 Posted November 17, 2019 I can get a couple for you tomorrow if no one else pops in before then 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,481 #3 Posted November 17, 2019 3 hours ago, cpete1 said: Does anybody have a close-up picture of the bottom edge of the plow. Mine might have some wear from a PO's neglect but I came up with 3/4". 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpete1 332 #4 Posted November 17, 2019 Thank you so much Gentlemen, Its been a while since I've posted anything, 'Things Happen" in life . There was so little material left on the bottom edge of my blade , it made it hard to figure what was there originally. And the "fix" that I did didn't really work all that well, at least when I hit the occasional "frozen embedded rock". So-o-o Now I got something to shoot for. Thank You again. I always said this was and still is one of the lousiest, rotten, mean, nasty forums that I ever got involved with and can't imagine how people can be that mean!!!! Thank You Chris 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,294 #5 Posted November 17, 2019 Could you buy two wear edges and weld on one with the bolt holes at the correct position, then when it wears half way to the holes, bolt the other one on top? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,955 #6 Posted November 17, 2019 Should end up with better support that way than just relying on a butt weld all the way across the length of it. Those bars get quite a bit of force on them as you found out by folding one under. Weld the top front all the way across and the bottom rear in between the bolt holes and the lap joint weld will hold up. Added weight doesn't hurt either as I run a bigger 1/4" thick scraper bar on mine. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,677 #7 Posted November 17, 2019 I just bought a 2 1/2" or 3" X 1/4" bar I think from ACE, but it could have been Tractor Supply. I thin drilled the right sized holes and used Stove Bolts for fastening. I got to get rid of the square under the bolt head and I could still keep the rounded head. I'll be able to just flip it when the time comes. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 966 #8 Posted November 17, 2019 Went Poly on mine and love it. Drilling holes a cinch and works great, can be rotated once, used the existing worn out blade as a guide and brace...... 7 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,627 #9 Posted November 17, 2019 Did that for a plastic edge and a replacement steel one. i use the old edge that has the square holes you need to anchor the carriage bolts. Easier than trying to make square holes. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpete1 332 #10 Posted November 17, 2019 All the replies are great suggestions. Kinda heading in the direction of Stevasaurus. As far as the poly edge, My driveway is over 1000' long. Last year, A buddy gave me skid shoes off a bolen's which I adapted to the plow. Even with infrequent use, (normally use a blower), I wore the shoes almost completely through, and that was after having a different style of skid on in the beginning of the season. I doubt a ploy edge would last to long for me. Wallfish, That is exactly what happened to my previous fix. Its a tough spot to weld and the stress is significant across the entire length of the blade. It didn't take long to bend the repair back toward under the blade. I might put some reinforcements along the bottom edge . Plus going to look for a stronger harder wear edge. I agree with your suggestions totally. A smart bunch of people here but I have an image to protect so I can't say that publicly.... Thanks, chris 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,955 #11 Posted November 17, 2019 2 hours ago, cpete1 said: Kinda heading in the direction of Stevasaurus. But Steve's plow wasn't worn down through the original mounting holes so you'll still need to weld something or replace the blade. I'm not 100% sure if the sacrificial scrapers sold as replacement scrapers are hardened steel but I think they are. Mild steel bought out of the bins at the local hardware store will wear much quicker. BUT, since you have a welder you can always weld a thick bead along the scrape edge which will make it much harder than just the mild steel. That can be done for the skid shoes too. Plus you can go with a wider and thicker piece of flat bar if going with the mild steel. How about finding a scraper from a full size road plow? Might be hard to cut but bet that would wear slow enough to get you through a season 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,677 #12 Posted November 17, 2019 Right, the piece I bought was not hardened, but with the Star Wheel adjuster or with an HY-2 unit, I can keep the blade just off the concrete. I don';t want to scratch up[ my new driveway. I can actually plow the leaves right out of the grass during fall without gouging the grass. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpete1 332 #13 Posted November 17, 2019 Wallfish, Last year I welded a piece of steel onto what was left of the plow. As you say, it was mild steel from the local Ace Hrdware stor. It was 1-1/4 " high. Then I bolted another piece of steel (2") to it as a cutting edge but using skids on the plow. Wasn't exactly the prettiest job but it worked, at least for a while. Your concerns (2 cents worth) are spot on. I'm thinking the 1-1/4 stuff actually acted like lever and folded the whole edge back. I just took everything apart and am rewelding the scabbed on piece. Then the thought is to cut the bottom off so its more inline with the picture Achto posted. I was going to go with another piece of mild steel (like stevasaurus) but now am inclined to look for something a tad thicker, taller and harder. The skids are supposed to save the edge and yes, I already added some meat to the bottom of them. When I first worked on the plow, I wasn't sure it would work all that well. I couldn't get over how much snow it could move so now I gotta pretty it up some. Like I said, Smart people here and I appreciate the insight. But I can't say that in public. It gives me Hives... Thanks, Chris 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,481 #14 Posted November 18, 2019 I'm lucky enough to be able to dig through the scrap bin at work to make wear bars for my plow. I cut mine 2 1/2" x 1/4" x 42". Not sure how fast they will wear down scraping the side walk in front of the house, but I have 4 on hand to burn up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 966 #15 Posted November 18, 2019 (edited) If you look carefully on my 3rd picture I made Skids for this set-up (ps to make them last I well used mower blades welded to the bottom) the blade you see is on it's third year and I have a 100 foot driveway. So no issues Edited November 18, 2019 by Rob R 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpete1 332 #16 Posted November 20, 2019 Very Nice Rob, Didn't notice the first time through. Chris 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,969 #17 Posted November 23, 2019 You might want to consider something like 4140 pre-hard bar stock. It has a hardness around Rc 30, which is harder than mild steel. It is still machineable, but will get brittle if welded without proper pre-heating, so for blade edge application it should be a bolt on. Will be more expensive, though. A 3' piece of 1/4"x2" bar will probably be in the $30 rage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tach-a-matic 357 #18 Posted November 29, 2019 RobR: Where is the black poly piece being sourced from. It looks snazzy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 966 #19 Posted November 29, 2019 4 hours ago, Tach-a-matic said: RobR: Where is the black poly piece being sourced from. It looks snazzy! Got a 4 foot piece off of e-bay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites