8 SPEED #5091 MANUAL WH TRANSMISSION

[stevasaurus 22,841]

 

 

 

This is the final in a series of Wheel Horse transmissions.  I have done the 3 piece #5003 & 5010 for the RJs...the #5025 3 speeds...the #5085 4 speed...the #5060 6 speed and now the #5091 8 speed.  It has been a long wait, but my brother Mike had a C-100 that just had both axle bearings go bad.  He took it to a dealer to have it all checked out and the dealer noticed the play in the axles.  He did not want to touch it and even suggested scrapping it.  That's when Mike called me.  HELLO!!!  I rebuild these...take it off the horse and bring it over.  He did.  We did have to cut off the both hubs with a 4" grinder...which we replaced with help from Randy... @The Tool Crib.  Got the hubs in the mail a week later.  We needed 2 axle bearings, 1 break shaft bearing, the 4 seals and the case gasket...got from Lowell  https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorse-parts-and-more/   Time for pictures.

 

 

Case half...deep side...showing lack of axle and brake shaft bearing.

 

I have to say... @prondzy made me a set of arbors that I was able to use to set these bearings.  I did use the freezer method for 2 days to shrink the bearing race...worked like a champ.  Mike, those arbors were the cat's meow...Thanks Mate.

 

Seeing that the axle bearing disintegrated, it did leave the axle with some rough spots.  I ran the 4' grinder gently over the rough spots so it would fit back in the differential side plate and the axle tube..

BTW...I did 5 videos doing this trans.  It fought me to death and I did not edit any of the things that made me go back and re-do the things to make it right.  Hopefully, watch the whole video 1st and see where I made mistakes and what it took to make things right.  Then you can do it right the 1st time.

Video...putting the differential together.

 

I took a bunch of good pictures of the most important part of the 8 speed transmission...the hi/low mechanism...especially showing the fork that is the weak spot.  This is what makes it so you can't shift between hi and low range.  Video of putting this together follows the pictures.  

This is the hi/low range mechanism.

 

the input shaft with the gear and spline assembly.

 

The rough part (you see) is where I broke the casting and Mike had it welded.  You can see the fork gear and the bolt to release the detente and fork it self.

 

There is the fork...that is what breaks or gets bent.  Shifting without coming to a complete stop and going from low to high...or...hi to low range is what breaks this fork.  You can see, there is not much there.

 

This is the piece that sticks out of the trans with the lever hi/low.  The notch hooks onto the fork of the fork mechanism.

 

I took some different views because sometimes the pieces can be welded back together.

the weld job

The look of the parts.

 

the videos

 

 

The rest of the trans.

 

The last 2 videos.

 

 

Here is some different shots...that I can use to help members when they run into things...like what neutral looks like from the inside.

neutral

2nd gear

1st gear

 

It will take approx. 2 qts of 90 wt oil to fill up to the fill mark on the dip stick.

 

I know...this may not be my best effort, but it does show all the pit falls.  I am so glad to finally be able to do the 8 speed 8 pinion transmission.  Thanks to my brother Mike, my good friend Lowell, my new good friend Randy, and a Minnesota guy that has always been special...Mike P....and as always...my inspiration...Squonk.  

One thing I have to say though...the video times ad up to 42 minutes and 21 seconds.  That is the worst time it would take you to save an 8 speed transmission.  

 

[Guest 88vic]

Woot woot ! Tool Crib !   Way to go guys, I love how everyone can get together and save these Horses one by one.  Cecil would be proud !  

[prondzy 3,881]

Glad to help Steve!

[stevasaurus 22,841]

prondzy...1st chance I had to dig into another trans since, cents, sense you gave me those.  I was pleasantly surprised to be able to use them on the 8 speed...remember, you made them for me to use to the 3 piece RJ transmissions.  The one I used for the axle 1 1/8" was to die for.    Rock & Rye Mike.

[ebinmaine 68,148]

Excellent work folks.

 

Thanks to all of you for your help keeping these great old horses alive and well.

 

 

[squonk 41,288]

Awesome pictures and I will watch the video's when I have time.  The right tools and equipment always makes a tough job go A LOT EASIER! Those arbors, When at auctions, yard sales ect I f I see anything remotely like them I grab them. I got a box full of bearing and seal installers, plates, pullers ect. Sometimes you make a tool out of a couple of them. 

[Racinbob 11,180]

Absolutely outstanding Steve!! 

[N875ED 98]

Thanks, Steve.

 

I just rebuilt my 8-speed last night after finding the Hi-lo shift fork broken, just as you said. I took the three broken pieces to a welder about getting it repaired but he declined because of the part's original heat treatment. So, went to the Toro dealer and ordered a new one...$57 in only 3 days turnaround. Nice. One thing to watch...the new ones are powder-coated black and it is important to sand the paint off the ends of the cylindrical portion, else the paint will be in contact with the transmission case and thru-bolt, and not the metal of the cylinder. Eventually the paint wears away and now it is no longer torqued properly.  

 

edited by stevasaurus...excellent to know you can still get that part and great to know about the powder coat.  Thank You

[dclarke 4,033]

Thanks Steve! Outstanding thread!!  I might just have to make a set of those arbors, great idea Mike! 

[peter lena 8,703]

terrific job on that pictures say it all. question , do you do a break in period ,and change out that fluid ? that would be a vitrifaction of  any debris and seating in of parts on that great rebuild , pete

 

Edited by stevasaurus...really no need to do a break in.  Really no new parts (except 3 bearings) and every thing was cleaned before assembly.  

[Pullstart 63,058]

With the use of the arbors, did you press or just tap the frozen bearings in?

 

Great thread!

 

edited by stevasaurus...I just tapped them with a small ball peen hammer.  With the freezer, you can almost push them in.  The arbor I used for the axle bearings even had a lip which made it possible to set the bearing down enough for the seal.  

[prondzy 3,881]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

With the use of the arbors, did you press or just tap the frozen bearings in?

 

Great thread!

Kevin, I have found it best to press them  but maybe steve tapped them .

[Pullstart 63,058]

I imagine if a guy were to drill and tap the arbor with a 1/2” or 5/8” thread, he could pull ‘em in from the inside...

[prondzy 3,881]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

I imagine if a guy were to drill and tap the arbor with a 1/2” or 5/8” thread, he could pull ‘em in from the inside...

I think rough casting wouldn't allow that 

 

edited by stevasaurus...right, you have to pound them out with an arbor or a punch.  It might work on some of the bearings though.

[WHX?? 49,116]

2 hours ago, prondzy said:

best to press them

Agreed, the bearing makers say press them in. Using the BFH can wreck them. I use the H press & a socket till my arbor ship comes in.. 

You want to press on the very outside race. 

 

edited by stevasaurus...just because I can.    No BFH's are needed to do a transmission.

[Stormin 9,981]

Great thread Steve. And thanks again for your help, when I had to rebuild the Black Horses trans and had brain fade.

[squonk 41,288]

SPECIAL NOTE:

 

WHEN USING THE FREEZER, ALWAYS TELL YOUR WIFE THERE ARE BEARINGS IN THE FREEZER!!! IF YOU DON'T YOU MAY FIND THEM IN YOUR CHICKEN ALFREDO.

 

SO TELL HER IN ADVANCE OR GET YOUR OWN FREEZER. BETTER YET, GET YOUR OWN FRIDGE/FREEZER IN THE SHOP. MAKE SURE THE FRIDGE PART IS BIG ENOUGH TO HOLD KEGGY THE KEG! 

 

[squonk 41,288]

Ole' Nine Fingers! 

[Lee1977 6,770]

I have a set arbors for the PTO bell. Never needed a set for the transmission. Just use some 2" sockets and a wood mallet .

I also have one for ball bearing, don't thing I have ever used it. Just used a socket or the old bearing.