New to me 417A

[Ed Kennell 38,326]

No AC is not good.    Are the wires OK?  You could check continuity close to the stator with a needle probe.  If the wires are good, looks like you are going in...or keep a charger handy.

 

[BrianX128 107]

Wires seem fine. I'm guessing pull off flywheel cover pull of bolt over flywheel and either a snap ring on the flywheel or my luck its pressed on and needs some sort of magical voodoo to get the flywheel off the crank..

 

My lawn rover has a 2amp charging system that's useless. Given that my wife is going to be using this and likely over summer when I'm at work during the day I don't feel like dead batteries so I'm fixing it one way or another haha.

[pfrederi 17,742]

Before you tear into things it would be a good idea to read up in the manual.  there are tests to see if your stator is bad and  then if necessary how to pull the flywheel.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,763]

1 hour ago, BrianX128 said:

go to source

For us it's whatever's least $$

 

Trina n I are uhhhh.... Frugal.

[BrianX128 107]

I'm pretty sure I found it on Amazon should be 237878 from the manual someone posted earlier. I'm going to wait to order it until I check continuity tomorrow but I got a feeling that's where its headed. At least it's only 50$ to get a new stator and regulator.

 

I might play around with adding an oil pressure gauge tomorrow, I have a spare gauge and some nylon and copper line. Not sure what would be better to use on this thing given where the port is.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,070]

Here is the KT service manual

Garry

[ebinmaine 67,763]

7 hours ago, BrianX128 said:

nylon and copper line. Not sure

All our horses are older so I don't know what was original.

I know copper is NOT recommended as fuel line because it cracks over time.

I'd use the nylon.

 

[BrianX128 107]

I get the feeling I'm going to have a miserable time getting to the pipe plug to thread it out and thread in my line for an oil pressure gauge with the sheet metal on the tractor and the engine in the frame. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

All our horses are older so I don't know what was original.

I know copper is NOT recommended as fuel line because it cracks over time.

I'd use the nylon.

 

Most aftermarket analog oil pressure gauges come with copper tubing (or available as a kit) to use during install as well as the nylon, I prefer the copper as it has a higher burst point as well melting point... JMO and experiences... Also dad used copper tubing on old Cub Cadet Original for as long as I can remember without a crack failure but it did have brass nut ferule issues.

[ebinmaine 67,763]

1 minute ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Most aftermarket analog oil pressure gauges come with copper tubing (or available as a kit) to use during install as well as the nylon, I prefer the copper as it has a higher burst point as well melting point... JMO and experiences... Also dad used copper tubing on old Cub Cadet Original for as long as I can remember without a crack failure but it did have brass nut ferule issues.

do you put a coil or any extra length built into the copper for flexibility or anything like that?

 

 

[BrianX128 107]

Unreal. The pipe plug is stuck and the head is rounded off like someone tried to remove it before. Tried a 5/32 Allen head but it won't move and the allen key will just spin first.

[ebinmaine 67,763]

6 minutes ago, BrianX128 said:

Unreal. The pipe plug is stuck and the head is rounded off like someone tried to remove it before. Tried a 5/32 Allen head but it won't move and the allen key will just spin first.

You might be able to throw some heat at that and use a slightly larger metric Allen head.

 

I learned a cute trick from technicians working here in the rust belt couple decades ago.

 

When a vehicle or machine is rusted or corroded:

You can almost always tighten something if you can't loosen that same thing.

 

[BrianX128 107]

I'll have to try that before I try my idea.. I was going to try and cut a slit across it like I've done with the little carb adjusters and see if I could get something flat to spin it with some heat.

 

I probably just won't add one if neither of those ideas work, but I keep looking at that spot like I could possibly drill it and tap it for 1/8th instead of 1/16 but I can't tell if there is really enough metal there or not... 

[ebinmaine 67,763]

9 minutes ago, BrianX128 said:

I'll have to try that before I try my idea.. I was going to try and cut a slit across it like I've done with the little carb adjusters and see if I could get something flat to spin it with some heat.

 

I probably just won't add one if neither of those ideas work, but I keep looking at that spot like I could possibly drill it and tap it for 1/8th instead of 1/16 but I can't tell if there is really enough metal there or not... 

I'm not really familiar with the newer models like that so I can't answer the question as to how big that tap can get.

 

What type of metal is the plug versus what it's screwed into?

 

 

[BrianX128 107]

I'm not sure, I'll have to try and get it a little cleaner if some heat doesn't help me.

 

I can't find my metric allen keys if I even have any. I think I do and I'm sure I've opened that drawer in the garage 5 times now but not seeing them yet ha. I end up with two sets of a lot of things this way.

[ebinmaine 67,763]

1 minute ago, BrianX128 said:

I'm not sure, I'll have to try and get it a little cleaner if some heat doesn't help me.

 

I can't find my metric allen keys if I even have any. I think I do and I'm sure I've opened that drawer in the garage 5 times now but not seeing them yet ha. I end up with two sets of a lot of things this way.

Yeah me too. Tape measures. That's the problem around here.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

do you put a coil or any extra length built into the copper for flexibility or anything like that?

 

 

Yes on the fuel line... But no on the oil pressure gauge.

[BrianX128 107]

I didn't have time to mess with the pipe plug anymore last night, I had ups show up with some truck parts to re-route my exhaust on my 7.3 IDI and so I worked on that instead. When I get home tonight though my new stator and regulator will be in and I found a flywheel puller so hopefully I'll get to looking at that tonight but it might have to be a weekend project. I tested the wires from the stator and it failed which makes sense as I have no ac voltage.

 

Any special trick to getting the main nut off the flywheel before I use the puller to get it the rest of the way off? The grass shield area to get to the flywheel looks pretty easy to get off to get to the flywheel but we'll see. Hopefully I don't have to rip into unrelated parts that are bolted to things too much.

[ebinmaine 67,763]

I haven't messed with one of those twins yet. certainly wouldn't hurt to start a separate question in the engine section.

 

[lynnmor 7,320]

If a hex socket is rounded out, get a larger allen wrench and grind each flat on the end at a taper.  Then hammer in the allen wrench forming a new hex shape and maybe it will allow removal.

[pfrederi 17,742]

59 minutes ago, BrianX128 said:

I didn't have time to mess with the pipe plug anymore last night, I had ups show up with some truck parts to re-route my exhaust on my 7.3 IDI and so I worked on that instead. When I get home tonight though my new stator and regulator will be in and I found a flywheel puller so hopefully I'll get to looking at that tonight but it might have to be a weekend project. I tested the wires from the stator and it failed which makes sense as I have no ac voltage.

 

Any special trick to getting the main nut off the flywheel before I use the puller to get it the rest of the way off? The grass shield area to get to the flywheel looks pretty easy to get off to get to the flywheel but we'll see. Hopefully I don't have to rip into unrelated parts that are bolted to things too much.

 

 

Impact wrench will "usually"  spin the nut off.  If it will not you will need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel do not wedge something between the cooling fins they are brittle.

Edited November 14, 2019 by pfrederi

[Lee1977 6,682]

I have a Briggs Vanguard on my C-120 that I have used nylon oil pressure line for the last 29 years. It just runs around below the flywheel cover with some electrical wires.

[BrianX128 107]

I had posted in the engine thread but just in case people were following this one, I pulled the flywheel tonight and all of my magnets were stuck on the stator and one was cracked in half and the one half was missing. Stator looked like junk too.

 

I'm probably going to get a new "used" flywheel if I can. I found one on fleabay for 60$ but it's from a c175 with a kt17. I'm not sure if that will work or not. I'd think it should but I'm not sure if there's any flywheel differences amongst the models.

[953 nut 55,392]

On 11/14/2019 at 8:26 AM, pfrederi said:

you will need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel

When torquing the fly wheel you will need to be able to hold it against the torque. I have used a piece of 3/4" round steel rod inserted in one of the balancing holes drilled into the flywheel with the other end resting on the frame when removing the nut and installing it.

[Ed Kennell 38,326]

Brian, I happen to know of a 417A in my area that may be for sale.    The engine runs on one cylinder with a broken rod in the other.    I don't know if the charging system is working.

The last I talked to the owner, he was looking for a replacement engine.  The KT17    or the entire tractor may be for sale.    If you are interested, let me know, and I will try to get more info.

 

 

Oops, I just saw your post on the engine magnets.    Looks like you have a plan.    

Edited November 18, 2019 by Ed Kennell