73/74 36" Rear Discharge 5-0261 Mower Deck Refurb

[Tach-a-matic 357]

Tried this deck out briefly while on my new B-80 and it was pretty loud and needs some attention. I don't really need to mow grass with this but next fall I'm thinking it would be great in front of a sweeper to mulch up the leaves a bit first.  And to keep as a backup in case my main mower goes down. So the goal is to make this deck mechanically sound when under the B-80 and any future Horses (I love this stuff!)

 

 

The main pulley is the biggest noise maker...

 

 

Stripped of the lift gear and the tensioner (which was seized)

 

 

The blades have been sharpened quite a few times and IMO beyond their service life. A new set from Stens is ~$55 shipped.  

 

 

Any tips/links on how to remove this main pulley?  (it does not look easy!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 9, 2019 by Tach-a-matic

[JoeM 7,871]

I've taken some of these most stubborn ones off and it can be a challenge. One way is to tap the two holes and use a puller with bolt screwed into the hole. I attached a pic of one done this way.

Another way is to insert wedges, like the ones you would shim a window with, all around the edge. Snugging the wedges and the more you use the less chance of cracking the pulley. Could apply some heat also, the seal will get changed with the bearing so not to much to worry about using heat. Leaving the center bolt loose and giving light taps to the bolt trying to drive it out of the pulley. I rest the deck on a hollow core block with the spindle inside the core so as it is firm when taping. Of course the nuts need to be removed underneath to allow the housing to move. This is the most dicey way.

Soak in a good panther piss over night will help too.

I have tried using pry bars under the pulley and hitting the bolt, but have had some bad experiences with this method. It worked, but working by myself a lot, it is hard to keep the bars where they will not cause damage.

Good luck!

 

Edited November 9, 2019 by MrOiluj52

[peter lena 8,583]

best way to remove that pulley is to first start soaking down the spindle area, remove top bolt, there are three   (  3 )  bolts under the bottom of the pulley , that connect to the mower deck., i use two ( 2)  thin pry bars under the pulley and rocking on the bolt tops up against the center of pulley , pushing equally will do the job. sounds like all bearings are shot , also replace the idler pulley . bearings will probably be  6203 RS BEARINGS , BUY A 6 PACK ON LINE ,ALSO GET 3 GREASE SEALS # 473380 ON LINE   or your choice. you wiil also need new blades , yours are shot. that deck looks like its starved for metal care , i imagine the underside is worse, use the penetrating oil of your choice to soak down the metal and stop the rust.  i use LUCAS RED AND TACKY  GREASE in those bearings , very quiet and will not run out. done a number of these, detail the hell out of it , it will pay you back with solid smooth and quiet running , pete

[Tach-a-matic 357]

Thank you fellas I will try one of these methods tomorrow!

[JoeM 7,871]

Those look like none grease able double D bearings, if so I included the info.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033]

Was not aware Stens had replacement blades. Are you sure?

 

9187 center blade and 9188 left and right blades replaced by 8969 3-blade kit and no longer available (Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D)

 

8969 blade set available again from Toro June 4, 2019

 

Garry

[tom2p 2,394]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

best way to remove that pulley is to first start soaking down the spindle area, remove top bolt, there are three   (  3 )  bolts under the bottom of the pulley , that connect to the mower deck., i use two ( 2)  thin pry bars under the pulley and rocking on the bolt tops up against the center of pulley , pushing equally will do the job. sounds like all bearings are shot , also replace the idler pulley . bearings will probably be  6203 RS BEARINGS , BUY A 6 PACK ON LINE ,ALSO GET 3 GREASE SEALS # 473380 ON LINE   or your choice. you wiil also need new blades , yours are shot. that deck looks like its starved for metal care , i imagine the underside is worse, use the penetrating oil of your choice to soak down the metal and stop the rust.  i use LUCAS RED AND TACKY  GREASE in those bearings , very quiet and will not run out. done a number of these, detail the hell out of it , it will pay you back with solid smooth and quiet running , pete

pete / oiluj52 - 

 

might need to change a mower deck center pulley 

 

I have an assortment of pry bars - also have pulley pullers

 

the pullers are the 'jaw' type ;  I don't have a puller that could thread into the pulley 

 

I planned to use one of the pullers to remove the center pulley.  Would the pullers be a good option to remove the pulley ?

 

 

Edited November 10, 2019 by tom2p

[JoeM 7,871]

Wow, maybe a cast one might pull with the jaws, but those sheet metal tin jobs deform real easy.

It looks like you don't have the cast model. There is not much room under your pulley and that creates a problem for using bars. Try the wedges. Like I said, more the better and lite taps on the center with the housing nuts removed below.

You might want to even invest in a cheep Harbor Freight Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set, $16 or so bucks. Less than the cost of a replacement pulley.

 

[Tach-a-matic 357]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Was not aware Stens had replacement blades. Are you sure?

 

9187 center blade and 9188 left and right blades replaced by 8969 3-blade kit and no longer available (Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D)

 

8969 blade set available again from Toro June 4, 2019

 

Garry

 

Not really sure. These are what I was looking at...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2019 by Tach-a-matic

[Tach-a-matic 357]

1 hour ago, MrOiluj52 said:

Those look like none grease able double D bearings, if so I included the info.

 

 

Are these the bearings needed for each spindle?  

 

How does someone R & R these?  I am familiar with inserting a drift in and knocking #1 out and then #2 from the opposite side, but not this!

 

 

Edited November 10, 2019 by Tach-a-matic

[Tach-a-matic 357]

Yep MrOil you are correct, this is what I have.  The blade type gives it away and I noticed the "D" above the blade.  Looks like a press is required for R&R? Or am I S.O.L?

 

 

Looks like there were 2 other spindles types on the same decks back then, like this one that has the more traditional "bearing - spacer - bearing" setup...  

 

[JoeM 7,871]

You will know when you get r apart. If it has the double D bearings they will drive out of the housing in one piece. I place the housing top side down on a piece of 1 1/2 pipe and drive the bearing through into the pipe.

I have not needed a press for this as of yet, but that would work too. Just a pretty good ballpein hammer. When you reinstall, pay attention to the way yours comes out, I believe the end of the bearing with the line goes up.

I see you have looked at the file. Good deal, like Garry says, pay attention to detail. They made some D style blades that have a width of 3/4", I would say yours are 5/8" at the flats.

[Tach-a-matic 357]

Thanks for the excellent info.  

 

I'm guessin' now that those blades I posted above wont work

 

 

Edited November 10, 2019 by Tach-a-matic

[76c12091520h 3,608]

I have complete new spindle assemblies, blade sets , pulleys etc. to fit this deck , pm if I can help.

[peter lena 8,583]

if you use a puller on those pulleys, they are toast, only the older cast pulleys can  stand up to the pulleys. as i said , thin pry bars under the pulleys , bar on top of the bolt head under the pulley ,will give you the mechanical advantage, i put the pry bar end, up against the center of pulley. obviously penetrating oil soak , pete 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033]

11 hours ago, Tach-a-matic said:

Thanks for the excellent info.  

 

I'm guessin' now that those blades I posted above wont work

 

 

The 5/8" x 3/4" center blade hole is often referred to as a double-D hole. Looks like 2 D's back to back.

The spindle assemblies you have can be upgraded to the newer design with the 3/4" round center blade hole.

 

Garry