Tonyp 285 #1 Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) Yeh CHEAP, as in not related to price ! My 86 / M10 required a new fuel pump several years back, I kept having a war with the original then finally caved. I bought one of those replacements which are around $20. This was maybe 2 years ago. I immediately didn't like it as it was plastic with plastic press fittings for fuel intake and send. But what could I do, so I installed it along with all new gas line from the tank to the pump. It does indeed function but it seems that after a bit it was always slower and slower to start, meaning I knew there was no fuel getting to the carb. So now once again , no start. Plug is dry, I put fuel in the cylinder and it starts right off which means NO fuel being drawn and sent to the carb. Such is life. Such is a $20 part . I ordered another CHEAP pump I'm not gonna fight the current one for a $20 bill. I do know that the pump activation rod may have to be bent back slightly to make contact with the internal shaft. It appears others have had this same issue, rod not bent back enough to make firm contact I would buy an exact Kohler replacement if I could find one. Heck the original lasted 30 years ! the new one lasted 2. These pumps are common on the M series Kohlers , I think all of them, M10,12 , 14... Oh yeah, they come with a snap ring, what is that for ? i assume to hold one of the fittings in place so it won't fall out ? Thoughts and comments appreciated. Edited November 4, 2019 by Tonyp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,904 #2 Posted November 4, 2019 That is why several of us have switched over to electric fuel pumps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #3 Posted November 4, 2019 Which electric fuel pump do you recommend ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,904 #4 Posted November 4, 2019 Lots of members here have been going to the FACET POSI-FLO pumps, others have had good results with other brands. As long as it is a LOW PRESSURE ( 1.5 PSI +/-) fuel pump and it is mounted below the fuel tank you should be good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 10,017 #5 Posted November 4, 2019 The snap ring is an assembly tool to keep the tabs held in when you insert the press fittings to get the proper orientation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #6 Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) thx for the replies. the Facet PRO electrics, I see them having 1 to 2 or 1 to 4 PSI , do they have an adjust setting on them to select the PSI delivery ? Edited November 4, 2019 by Tonyp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #7 Posted November 4, 2019 Do you still have the original because you can get a kit for those from automotive then and now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #8 Posted November 4, 2019 I have the original somewhere, It's hiding in plain sight . The check valves kept falling out of position, each time I took it apart I had to re-seat them. Plus the main gasket was pretty worn out. I'm leaning towards the electric pump conversion. I just need to learn a bit more about them for a 10 HP engine I Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,994 #9 Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) The correct Facet pump you would be looking for is model # FAC-40177. It was actually sold before as a Kohler part. It has the correct pressure and it is well made right here in the US. I use several of them and have a couple others on standby to change into other tractors. You should be able to get it for around $55.00. If you change into one you will notice many other improvements on tractors performance such as the elimination of occasional surging at high throttle under load going up hills, which is always caused by fuel starvation. Edited November 4, 2019 by formariz 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,533 #10 Posted November 4, 2019 I recently found the lever type pump in Rylee’s “Filly” was put together on the bottom side of the cam lobe. It was as if someone installed the pump with a scoop action, where you need to put it in as straight and high as possible. I would suggest pulling the pump out and actuating the lever by hand to see if you get any flow through it. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and direct it into a pop bottle of choice for observation. It may be the lever is just on the wrong side of the cam lobe. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #11 Posted November 4, 2019 Thx for the replies, yes I am well aware of the cam action / lever. Its easy to install it on wrong side of the cam. Everything was working fine a few days ago but funny, to the comment above, I noticed the engine was running starved the last time out, I didn't think anything of it until it wouldn't start at all yesterday. I ran gas directly into the cylinder before ( all ok started and ran immediately ) I removed the pump for visual inspection, which revealed nothing to my eyes. exercise in futility evidently ! Great engine, lousy pump! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kwalshy 237 #12 Posted November 5, 2019 I'm almost positive this is the Facet pump I installed on my 314-8 after going thru the same situation with cheap pumps breaking over a short period of time. Like other have stated, electric pump is the winner. The pump I purchased & installed with 1-2 psi output does not have an adjustment on the pressure output. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,904 #13 Posted November 5, 2019 The reason the pump manufacturer has a pressure range listed is they have no idea where your fuel tank is located relative to the engine. Takes some pressure to lift the fuel up from a low mounted tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #14 Posted November 6, 2019 thx, I am going to upgrade to the electric fuel pump,soon, just not today ! I did acquire another CHEAPO , but before I installed it investigated the cheapo currently on the M10. I removed it, checked the pumping draw and send with a small jar of gas, interesting, it works and very well ! So I moved to the fittings . The new pump came with 4 fittings,. I used two of them on the old pump and replaced the gas line , used new clamps, and lo and behold things are working just fine, the pump never actually failed,. What I did do before re-installation was bend back the pumping lever ever so slightly so it strikes the cam more directly. So I now have a new cheapo pump in the spare parts bin and my thinking is now that the pumps themselves are probably not as bad as I thought but the fittings leave a lot to be desired. Plastic fittings inserted into the plastic pump body with small O rings is probably not the best design. But for $15 what are we expecting ? It is what it is. Right now I am functional again but the 1-2 PSI electric pump is in the cards very soon. Seems they are available at local AUTO parts stores for around $50. I appreciate all the replies, maybe someone else will read this topic and learn something. thx tp 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #15 Posted November 6, 2019 you fixed it by bending the pump arm the cheap pumps have a dead space before they pump and it is about the same amount of movement as the cam lobe lift on the pump arm brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyp 285 #16 Posted November 6, 2019 5 minutes ago, buckrancher said: you fixed it by bending the pump arm the cheap pumps have a dead space before they pump and it is about the same amount of movement as the cam lobe lift on the pump arm brian THX, yes ,quite possibly but it was certainly running a few days earlier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
