cgambino1018 21 #1 Posted October 27, 2019 After years of looking I finally got a 60 inch deck to go with my WH520. I have a 42 inch deck on it now. The deck did not come with the mule drive. I sharpened the blades, greased the 3 fittings (middle one was a real pain). What else should I do before putting it into service? -Do I need a different mule drive? Also, just pushing the deck on the driveway I noticed it pulls a bit to the one side. the front wheels look like they are facing the direction its pulling toward. Is that something to worry about? All advice is welcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #2 Posted October 28, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, cgambino1018 said: After years of looking I finally got a 60 inch deck to go with my WH520. I have a 42 inch deck on it now. The deck did not come with the mule drive. I sharpened the blades, greased the 3 fittings (middle one was a real pain). What else should I do before putting it into service? -Do I need a different mule drive? Also, just pushing the deck on the driveway I noticed it pulls a bit to the one side. the front wheels look like they are facing the direction its pulling toward. Is that something to worry about? All advice is welcome. Mule drive will be the same, but you will likely have to use the belt that came with the 60" deck. I could be wrong though. Are the front wheels tight on the shaft without a lot of slop? If they're tight, then the wheels were probably just ran into something while mowing. You might have to straighten the brackets. If they're loose they're probably worn out. Beyond that, you should be good to go! Edited October 28, 2019 by ZXT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #3 Posted October 28, 2019 3 hours ago, cgambino1018 said: After years of looking I finally got a 60 inch deck to go with my WH520. I have a 42 inch deck on it now. The deck did not come with the mule drive. I sharpened the blades, greased the 3 fittings (middle one was a real pain). What else should I do before putting it into service? -Do I need a different mule drive? Also, just pushing the deck on the driveway I noticed it pulls a bit to the one side. the front wheels look like they are facing the direction its pulling toward. Is that something to worry about? All advice is welcome. do all rollers spin easily ? both deck wheels roll easily ? if not the case - this could also cause deck to pull when pushed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #4 Posted October 28, 2019 I don't see grease fittings on the spindles my sight not the greatest - maybe I just can't sell them ? check the obvious before you put the deck into service - including : spin blades and check bearings check belt (deck / spindle - 'rotary' belt) idler bar and bushings (if it has them) idler pulley (check for bearing / bushing play) ensure all pulleys are in good shape (pulley grooves are smooth and free of burrs, etc.) rollers (should spin easily) wheels and attaching bolts (shoulder bolts) - check for play Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #5 Posted October 28, 2019 (edited) The mule drive is different for the 60" deck, it has a spring loaded pulley. The early decks didn't have the anti-scalp wheels on the front, only the wear bars that loop around. You have the bars and the wheels were added by a previous owner that didn't care to do it right. The rear wheels are extremely expensive and I could never find cheaper replacements that were nearly as good. I would replace the bearings and keep them well greased to extend the life. Edited October 28, 2019 by lynnmor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,159 #6 Posted October 28, 2019 Instructions for adding the front rollers Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #7 Posted October 28, 2019 13 hours ago, lynnmor said: The mule drive is different for the 60" deck, it has a spring loaded pulley. The early decks didn't have the anti-scalp wheels on the front, only the wear bars that loop around. You have the bars and the wheels were added by a previous owner that didn't care to do it right. The rear wheels are extremely expensive and I could never find cheaper replacements that were nearly as good. I would replace the bearings and keep them well greased to extend the life. There I go giving bad info again. Can it be used with a regular mule drive? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #8 Posted October 29, 2019 3 hours ago, ZXT said: There I go giving bad info again. Can it be used with a regular mule drive? I have read reports of that being done, but can't confirm that it will work well. The 60" has the belt on the bottom pulley unlike all the others. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #9 Posted October 30, 2019 This morning I put the 60in deck on using the mule drive that I had with the 42 inch deck. It went on pretty easy. I took it for a test drive on the very wet leaves and it clogged up in about 75 feet. I am not worried about that as the Leaf vac was not connected. I did notice the belt that spins the blades was shaking a bit. https://photos.app.goo.gl/vcBbFSvWaisyxcoz9 Please review the video and let me know if its something to worry about? also let me know if the belt off the tractor is tight enough.. that has about 1-1.5 inch play. Thanks for all your help Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #10 Posted October 30, 2019 I'm not sure that you have the belt routing correct, it should be tensioned by the spring loaded pulley. The belt play you are referencing is for the drive belt on the PTO. The correct mule drive tensions the drive belt with a spring as well. If you had clogging problems, then it is likely that one or both belts are slipping. I know that you bought the deck without belt guards, but find a pair or have them made, those spinning pulleys will cut thru a shoe in a second, ask me how I know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #11 Posted October 31, 2019 the tension / play on the mower deck / spindle belt appears to be ok (but cannot determine if the belt is routed correctly as stated in prev post) the PTO / mower drive belt appears to need more tension (as stated in prev reply) not familiar with a deck clogging ; i've cut a fair amount of tall wet grass (with leaves etc) neglected decks and never had that issue 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #12 Posted October 31, 2019 Thanks for the feedback. Based on this pic can you tell me if the belt on the desk is properly routed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,793 #13 Posted October 31, 2019 Looks right. Does belt feel nice and tight ? Here is a pic of mine. Guards are on but you can get the idea. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #14 Posted November 5, 2019 This weekend took the deck on its first cutting adventure. It was more of a leaf pick up adventure. In the heavy leaves (4-6 inch high) the blades are definitely slowing down. You can see them from the pulley spinning slower and I think a belt starts slipping as it starts whining/screeching. I stop forward motion and the blades return to normal speed in about 10 seconds. I know i dont have the right mule drive but what else should I be checking? Also the deck cut very low (about 2 inches) which is fine for this time of year. The height adjuster was 3 from the top. In the summer i like to keep the grass at 4-5 inches. other than the handle is there anywhere else to adjust the height? Lastly, I did put the guards on the top of the deck back on. All advice is appreciated. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #15 Posted November 5, 2019 That large deck will need a fair amount of pressure on the PTO, adjust it so that the lever takes a firm push to engage, but don't go overboard because that thrust is on the internal engine bearing. When a PTO slips, it often is followed by a belt slipping and can fool you into thinking that just the belt needs more tension. Of course a worn or glazed belt can contribute to the problem. Cutting height is always an issue with many Wheel Horse decks. Adjust air pressure in all the tires to the correct PSI, put the deck height adjustment in the highest setting, level the deck using the nut in the center rear till it is about 1/16" to 1/8" lower in the front while on a flat floor. You can use a yard stick laid across the deck top and measure down to the floor or measure the same blade tip to the floor. Some have used gage wheels larger than the 8" standard wheels but it takes a good one to carry these heavy decks. The anti-scalp rollers that were added should be 3/8" from the floor when in the chosen height setting. I like to mow high as well, but you may have to settle for something much lower that 4 - 5 inches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #16 Posted November 22, 2019 have completed about 3 cuts of 18000 sq feet of lawn over the last 4 weeks. not a lot of cutting , mostly leaf pick up. Seems to be working well. Just saw a mule drive for a 60in deck on ebay for $150. a) do I really need a specific mule drive for a 60in desk. Off hand i would say the angles of pulleys are differnt. ; b) does 150 seem reasonable; c: how does this one look? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #17 Posted November 23, 2019 1 hour ago, cgambino1018 said: have completed about 3 cuts of 18000 sq feet of lawn over the last 4 weeks. not a lot of cutting , mostly leaf pick up. Seems to be working well. Just saw a mule drive for a 60in deck on ebay for $150. a) do I really need a specific mule drive for a 60in desk. Off hand i would say the angles of pulleys are differnt. ; b) does 150 seem reasonable; c: how does this one look? Looks like the correct one. The price seems rather high especially when you are buying it without being able to feel for problems. There is a grease fitting on the shaft that apparently was neglected. Be sure that have the option to return it if there is a problem. Note that the pulleys are not in line and one rotates a bit. Totally different that the other models. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #18 Posted November 23, 2019 Pulleys appear to have rust on the inside surfaces light rust can be removed fairly quickly and should not be an issue - but heavier rust might be an issue pulleys with rust and other issues / imperfections can destroy good belts fairly quickly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,793 #19 Posted November 23, 2019 The 60" deck uses cast iron pulleys. Mine were a bit rusty but after bead blasting and painting they look like new. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,446 #20 Posted November 23, 2019 2 hours ago, cleat said: The 60" deck uses cast iron pulleys. Mine were a bit rusty but after bead blasting and painting they look like new. On the deck spindles they are iron, but the mule drive has stamped steel pulleys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,897 #21 Posted November 24, 2019 The drive belt is a tad loose. The squealing is the belt slipping. You don't want to do that, you have enough HP to destroy the belt in a few seconds. If the belts squeal disengage the PTO quickly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #22 Posted November 28, 2019 Got the Mule drive for the 60inch deck for $115, took a wire brush to it to take the surface rust off. Not much there. I also gave the grease fitting a few shots also. Put the Mule drive and the belt that came with it (a little wider) and it seems to run a bit smoother. Take a look at the the video off the link. Next, in the spring to thin the dead grass out I hook a dethatcher to the front of the tractor. I connect it to the mule drive (I know this is a bad idea). With the thatcher on the front and lawn Vac on the back, spring clean up is done in 2 hours. Been doing it for years without issue (knock on wood). Any concerns? See pic of of thatcher adapter that stays on the tractor all year. Also have a few pics of how the thatcher bent the front of the mule drive All comments and advice is welcome. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArLtdu2CWhLBm5Z8Yu085FYEszwR8g?e=hiAth0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #23 Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, cgambino1018 said: Got the Mule drive for the 60inch deck for $115, took a wire brush to it to take the surface rust off. Not much there. I also gave the grease fitting a few shots also. Put the Mule drive and the belt that came with it (a little wider) and it seems to run a bit smoother. Take a look at the the video off the link. Next, in the spring to thin the dead grass out I hook a dethatcher to the front of the tractor. I connect it to the mule drive (I know this is a bad idea). With the thatcher on the front and lawn Vac on the back, spring clean up is done in 2 hours. Been doing it for years without issue (knock on wood). Any concerns? See pic of of thatcher adapter that stays on the tractor all year. Also have a few pics of how the thatcher bent the front of the mule drive All comments and advice is welcome. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArLtdu2CWhLBm5Z8Yu085FYEszwR8g?e=hiAth0 can't comment on the attachment - but I like the idea and the ingenuity if the belt is a 'little wider' - that may indicate it is a molded/wrapped belt OEM Wheel Horse belts were/are molded/wrapped - and can deliver years of service true Wheel Horse OEM belts that is some of the current/recent Wheel Horse 'OEM' belts are not molded/wrapped - and many if not most of these belts are inferior ( inferior is a nice way to state they are $hit ) Edited November 28, 2019 by tom2p Share this post Link to post Share on other sites