RetroMower 349 #1 Posted October 24, 2019 Well I finally split the tranny case on my B100 and although its a moderately awful sight, its goid to know the cause of all the problems the previous owner had. The wheel hub was destroyed as were the seal and needle bearing in the axle tube and now i see why. A main bearing inside detonated causing the shaft to wobble destroying everything else. Good news is the axle keyways are fine as is the surface the ball bearing rode on. I just hope this bearing is available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,861 #2 Posted October 24, 2019 Your parking brake pawl in the bottom right corner of that upright case looks good. Some one in the past did a good job of stopping fully before using parking brake Please let us know where you find the bearing and how your reassembly goes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,865 #3 Posted October 24, 2019 I think your B-100 is either a 1974 or 1975. Your Sundstrand pump is #90-1136. Your trans-axle is a #5090 4 pinion with 1" axles. The large ball bearing, which carries the differential is #1533. The outer axle bearings are Wheel Horse #1528 this crosses to Torrinton or Koyo B-1616. The axle seals will be Wheel Horse #100607. I do not know what that crosses to for SKF. @gwest_ca might know. Our vendor Lowell has the bearings and the seals. @wheelhorseman http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/ 4 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #4 Posted October 24, 2019 27 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: I think your B-100 is either a 1974 or 1975. Your Sundstrand pump is #90-1136. Your trans-axle is a #5090 4 pinion with 1" axles. The large ball bearing, which carries the differential is #1533. The outer axle bearings are Wheel Horse #1528 this crosses to Torrinton or Koyo B-1616. The axle seals will be Wheel Horse #100607. I do not know what that crosses to for SKF. @gwest_ca might know. Our vendor Lowell has the bearings and the seals. @wheelhorseman http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/ Thankfully the previous owner was as wise and knowledgeable as you kind sir and was kind enough to give these to me. The main #1533 bearings were my primary concern. Thank you so much. Im very suprised more damage did not occur. These needles and ball bearings were laying in the bottom of the case. A few of the needles did get chopped but if one of the loose balls found its way between two gears it might have been truly horrific Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,875 #5 Posted October 24, 2019 Axle seal CR 9878 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,865 #6 Posted October 24, 2019 excellent, so you have all the parts you need?? Thanks Paul for that cross number!! Lowell does have #1533 bearings...only place to get new ones. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,875 #7 Posted October 24, 2019 At his point i would definitely open up the differential and see what the snap ring grooves look like. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #8 Posted October 24, 2019 I'll definitely open the diff since I have it this far apart. I do however have a possibly silly question. Having never had a hydro tranny apart Im learning alot but one thing escapes me. I now know how the parking brake works but how do the regular brakes function? I know when the brake pedal is depressed it disengages the hydro pump to neutral but the lack of a brake band like my C100 or any friction material has me stumped as to what would stop you on a incline. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,875 #9 Posted October 24, 2019 39 minutes ago, RetroMower said: I'll definitely open the diff since I have it this far apart. I do however have a possibly silly question. Having never had a hydro tranny apart Im learning alot but one thing escapes me. I now know how the parking brake works but how do the regular brakes function? I know when the brake pedal is depressed it disengages the hydro pump to neutral but the lack of a brake band like my C100 or any friction material has me stumped as to what would stop you on a incline. There are no physical brakes on earlier sunstrands. the resistance of the hydro is the stopping action. All the "Brake" pedal did was push the motion control to neutral. later models put a band brake on the end of the hydro motor.... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #10 Posted October 25, 2019 Opened up the diff this morning and good thing I did. There were treats inside there too. Slipped both axles out and cleaned them and the small stationary gears. None were badly worn or nicked from mulching the needle bearings thankfully and the snap rings were pristine. The splines in the one axle were burred pretty good but a little light file and it slipped back into place with no fuss. The only thing now is how to remove these gnarly bearing races. And yes both main ball bearings are annihilated. $$$ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,865 #11 Posted October 25, 2019 This works pretty good for the 1533 bearings. For the outer axle races, I use a long enough 1/2 drive extension with a 1/2 drive socket (put in backwards) that is just big enough to fit down the axle. A good punch and ball peen will work also. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #12 Posted October 25, 2019 2 hours ago, stevasaurus said: This works pretty good for the 1533 bearings. For the outer axle races, I use a long enough 1/2 drive extension with a 1/2 drive socket (put in backwards) that is just big enough to fit down the axle. A good punch and ball peen will work also. Thanks for this video. It definitely pointed me in the right direction. I dont have an air chisel yet so I sacrificed a rarely used brake spoon which wasn't up to the challenge so I modified my approach. I resorted to cutting it with my dremel with one of the heavier fiber cutting disks, not the brittle red ones. I had to cut them on a heavy angle as to not cut into the cast housing. I cut 99% through as i know bearing races are brittle and voila a few taps and the two halves popped out. They shatter easily so protect those peepers. The outer needle bearings also had me modify your suggestion. Of all the sockets I have one was either a hair small and slipped through or too big so i found some thick 1/2" washers which fit nicely and out they came with little fight. Now is the hardest part... spending more money for parts lol. Its well worth it though so I really dont care 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,865 #13 Posted October 25, 2019 That video...as much as that bearing fought me...was only 6 minutes long. The idea is exactly what you did...see what it takes and figure something out like it. Outstanding. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #14 Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) 26 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: That video...as much as that bearing fought me...was only 6 minutes long. The idea is exactly what you did...see what it takes and figure something out like it. Outstanding. Well what he have here is a culmination of good ideas. The way you got your bearings out is perfect for intact bearings. My use of a dremel wouldn't work well, or at the very least, take a long time to cut the inner and outer races. But on another note a more serious issue. This B100 has a wonderful patina front to back. The hood and tins may need some 400 or 600 wet sanding to soften the gritty rusty texture but other than that its a beauty. Decals are all good as well and as I've heard fairly often in here it only looks this way once so Its going to be rough to not strip and repaint this tranny having it this far apart but i will endure. Somehow lol Edited October 25, 2019 by RetroMower 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RetroMower 349 #15 Posted October 25, 2019 Does anyone know what this mystery object is. It was pinned between the tranny and toolbox area, its wheelhorse red so it must be important Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 943 #16 Posted October 25, 2019 That's the housing for the rear hitch lift cable. Marv 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,865 #17 Posted October 26, 2019 Lowell sells those lift cables also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
