-
Similar Content
-
By grasscuts
Hi, here's what happened. I changed out 9 pin moles plug...had issues tracter quit running and changed the plugs while I was at it....got plugs from auto store cross reference to ngk they said it was the same heat range and I check electrod length with calipers ,same...tracter started right up and ran great for about 10 min. And started back firing and quit.....going to check it out tonite anybody have an idea?
-
By Mithral
So my Kohler CH18S had a coil problem. One coil tested out bad. So I replaced both coils while I have things apart, ... and now I have a coil grounding issue.
When the kill wire is connect to both coils, the engine will not start.
If I remove both kill wires the engine will start, and will consequently stop when I reconnect the wires.
If I remove one kill wire from either coil, the engine will start and run on one cylinder, until I reconnect the second kill wire and then the engine stops.
If I disconnect the kill wire going to the wire harness, it makes no difference to the above.
It appears that the kill wire connected in series from one coil to the other coil is grounding out from coil to coil.
I have no idea why this might be. Unless I simply got the wrong coils.
So I thought I would ask advice before I go rewiring myself a separate kill switch while I have everything opened up. Or I guess I could fall back to just choking it to turn off. Hmm....
-
By richm1386
Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine.
So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit.
That said I've got a couple questions.
1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot.
2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled.
3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering.
Thanks all.
-
By Redwheel
I have a commando v8 with the Kohler kv181s, I have found most prices to put it back to running, but I need to know what the coil was as it was external, part numbers , and any pictures anyone would have of how it was wired , I know a lot of people are replacing but I'd like to keep it original. Thank you ,
-
By 69-Raider-10
Can't sleep I'm so bummed. My Raider 12 I recently picked up decided to park itself in my side yard and I can't figure out what in tarnation is going on with it. She was running better than ever the day before. I had changed the oil, the plug, cleaned out the carb, set the throttle tighter with less play, cleaned the fins, sprayed DE-OX on the rusted electrical connections, tightened or replaced poor connectors showing bare wire, cleaned the grounds, and adjusted the high and low on the carb. Running beautifully after that. I was out toyin around with the cart picking up sticks and rocks, etc. for a couple hours, no problems whatsoever. Parked for the night and tarped her until I could make room in the shed. Came out the next day and went to fire her up and it just cranked and cranked. Didn't so much as hint that it wanted to turn over. Popped the cap and gas is fine, pulled the hose off the carb, cranked it and watched gas spurt out with no problem, took the plug out / grounded it / turned it over and watched it spark! So now I have two of the 3 majors checked off. I leave the plug out and put my hand over the hole and turn it, seems to have plenty of compression even with the ACR. Sounds no different than it did the day before either.
I do some research and decide it must be the points or condenser. Went and picked them up yesterday and installed them, nothing. Granted, I didn't set the gap to .020, or time the ignition. Could that keep it from not starting though? I would think it would just run rough? I'm seriously bumming over this. I've been researching all day and everything I'm reading is not something I want to get involved in. I don't have the time or the space to toss this on the bench and tear her down to look for a piled up shaft, or an ever so slightly bent rod, etc.. I still have the K181 sitting on the bench just to get cleaned and new gaskets seals. That's been there for 3 weeks! (Ok, so I decided to paint it while its out, sue me).
Seriously though, I need some pointers or some tough love. If I need to toss the motor on the dreaded future project bench and hunt down another one, I'll go do it I tell ya!
Oh, two more quick things: The condenser that was on it had a lug with a screw. Attached to the screw was a wire from the magneto I'm guessing. Can't see what else it could have went to? And then a jumper from the lug to the points. The new condenser the guy from the shop gave me had a sealed lead with no lug. Does that sound right? I ended up hooking both to the point terminal. Could that be a problem?
Finally, I was looking at my serial number (C070342) and comparing it to the manual's Engine ID sheet. It says a C denotes a 1967 but all other indications are pointing to it being a 68' Raider 12? What gives?
Thanks in advance!
-
