ebinmaine 68,504 #26 Posted December 23, 2019 1 minute ago, wallfish said: raw edge and or cogged belt Hadn't thought o' that John. Thanks for the reminder. I added a tension block between the frame and motor mount. Huge help but I'll get a proper belt as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,730 #27 Posted December 23, 2019 Eric, If the saw works for you carry on, like Mike I was just advising caution. I press some of my machines to do things they weren't made for and manage just fine. I also use some machines for exactly what they were made for and get poor results. I have an evolution circular saw that is designed to cut steel section, you can ruin the blade in seconds on some cuts. I agree with Mike, a grinder is the best cutter for many jobs. Take care. Mick 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikMacMike 479 #28 Posted December 23, 2019 On 11/13/2019 at 8:59 PM, Lee1977 said: Eric you know we need pictures of the saw. I have an old Wilton cut off band saw, they call it a 6 x 8 but it's 5 1/2 x 7 1/2 really. I use 18 teeth per inch it's slow . 14 teeth per inch is 3 times as fast but if anything moves it will jerk a tooth off and it's down hill from there. Once started it get worse and then saw at an angle. It's supposed to be also a vertical saw but the table is only about 3" square. it is almost useless as a vertical. Now thats a steel cutting saw Ill be looking for when I am ready....for now, the zip blade on one grinder I cut rather fast too. I forgot to say earlier too, I keep 4 grinders all with different purposes, the grinders are right there hanging, so after I cut with a zip, I switch grinders to say a 1/8" or 3/16" for carving, sometimes the 1/4" for carving for finishing I use the 1/4" to grind down the tops of the welds almost to the base metal, and then for a perfect finish I use sandpaper on a grinder starting at 80 grit and finishing with 120+ depending on the application, smoother grit for body rougher for structure. For cutting straight stalk of any sort the above saw cant be beat. On a structure or carving a grinder cant be beat. On body I use a nibbler, electric or manual, sometimes both depending how tight the spot and even at times aircraft tin snips, left hand right hand and straight including all the angle heads. But a plasma cutter is a kick ass baby too, albet a bit more pricy. Come time to really finish the big compressor comes to life and out come the air tools, but the very last sanding I do for finish is always the hand.....there is no tool that beats the human hand, any body man will attest to this. I noticed some like to keep the patina, or if there new sections to be matched with the patina on out alky drag car...it was from arizona so sitting for years in the desert created a gorgouse patina, but all it takes is someone touching it with there hand and it starts to wear, and the new parts that we wanted to match we had a lady who is a wall mural painter, she just went in with water colour to paint on rust and faded paint....from there we seal it with a very flat clear. In fact we have used salt on bare metal and letting the sun bake it in but that takes a bit more time.Dang I did it again heheheheh went from one subject to another....wheres the paint section heheheh. Soory guys I get diarrhea of the mouth so easily being of the Scotish, Irish, English decent LOL. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites