Issue with Kevlar belts on black hoods?

[formariz 11,987]

Recently replaced belts on my black hood with a Kevlar coated belt.  Tensioner at idler wheel also has a bracket that actually clamps belt to keep it from turning when clutch is depressed. The issue that I am having is that when slowing down or clutching tractor to control speed that bracket is always rubbing on top of belt. Kevlar is now coming off starting at the joint on back of belt.

has anyone come across this problem? 

Edited October 11, 2019 by formariz

[peter lena 8,580]

have a black hood with no kevlar belt issues, can you back that bracket off ? could you have another issue , like a pulley bearing that is allowing more belt play ?  pete

[lynnmor 7,302]

I think you are talking about wrapped belts, not raw edge belts.  Kevlar is a brand of cords used inside the belt.  Apparently you have a mechanical issue, perhaps a rough edge,  that is destroying the outside cover, a photo might be a big help.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032]

1 hour ago, formariz said:

Tensioner at idler wheel also has a bracket that actually clamps belt to keep it from turning when clutch is depressed. The issue that I am having is that when slowing down or clutching tractor to control speed that bracket is always rubbing on top of belt.

 

I don't think that was ever the intended purpose of that bracket.

Mine are adjusted so the bracket does not contact the back of the belt and it works great. If the belt won't stop driving with the clutch pedal down something else is wrong.

 

Garry

[formariz 11,987]

6 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

 

I don't think that was ever the intended purpose of that bracket.

Mine are adjusted so the bracket does not contact the back of the belt and it works great. If the belt won't stop driving with the clutch pedal down something else is wrong.

 

Garry

There is no way to adjust that bracket since it has a "Key " that fits into a receptacle in the idler arm. Only when clutch gets depressed will bracket start rubbing on back of belt, eventually stopping it when fully depressed. It is a good principle since it absolutely stops belt from turning, if not for this issue. The belt does stop without it and perhaps I will just eliminate the bracket.

I have a second black-hood a C121 and it works exactly the same way. I never paid any attention to it since I always had regular belts in them. The first time I noticed issue was actually after investigating the noise that the bracket makes while rubbing on the belt wrap since it is not a smooth surface.

29 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I think you are talking about wrapped belts, not raw edge belts.  Kevlar is a brand of cords used inside the belt.  Apparently you have a mechanical issue, perhaps a rough edge,  that is destroying the outside cover, a photo might be a big help.

Yes it is a wrapped belt. The mechanical issue is the bracket rubbing on the back of belt as described above. Bracket however is on correctly and it is keyed to the idler arm. I have two of these tractors and they are exactly the same.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032]

My brackets are not keyed so have to play with their location when the idler bolt is tightened.

Maybe that is what they tried to eliminate by keying them.

I can see it being needed to keep the belt in the idler pulley.

Can you trim some metal off the front of the bracket so it does not contact the belt with the pedal down?

Wonder if the clutch pedal rod trunnion on the left side could be lengthened enough to prevent the bracket from contacting the belt and still allow shifting?

 

Garry

[formariz 11,987]

16 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

My brackets are not keyed so have to play with their location when the idler bolt is tightened.

Maybe that is what they tried to eliminate by keying them.

I can see it being needed to keep the belt in the idler pulley.

Can you trim some metal off the front of the bracket so it does not contact the belt with the pedal down?

Wonder if the clutch pedal rod trunnion on the left side could be lengthened enough to prevent the bracket from contacting the belt and still allow shifting?

 

Garry

 

 

This is an interesting issue. Seems that purpose of bracket is twofold, to keep belt on idler and also to stop it from turning which it does extremely well. If it were not for this particular type of belt it would have never been an issue. I am sure that bracket could be trimmed but I will have to check again. Adjusting the trunnion perhaps also a possibility. I will be posting some photos as soon as I open it again.

[tom2p 2,394]

I just recently began to pay attention to belts 

 

wrapped belts are often (if not typically ?) 'thicker' than a non-wrapped belt - and therefore will fit/ride a tad higher on a pulley 

 

maybe the wrapped belt you installed is a tad thicker than most 

 

if the clearance was between bracket and belt is tight - maybe this small difference accounts for the contact ?

 

odd thing is I assumed most Wheel Horse models would have a wrapped drive belt (and/or all wrapped belts ?) - so the clearance should be sufficient 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,489]

No issues on my C 105...

 

Have run it now for 3 years and no problems...belt is holding up nicely...

[Burnerman 758]

My sons is doing the same. Lol. Because he’s been slamming the clutch down at full throttle doing wheelies. It’s eating up the back of the belt when it gets pinched.

 My c101 has the second OEM Wheelhorse belt on it and I’ve never had an issue with my drive belt,Ever. 

[wallfish 16,982]

The edges of the bracket should have bends so the actual edge of the metal does not contact the belt, just the curve at the bend. You can increase the the bend angle using an adjustable wrench and or also bend the bracket up a little at the 90 deg bend so it doesn't pinch the belt as tight. Just some slight tweaking should be enough. 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Since the action of the belt brake comes into play as you depress the clutch pedal, yours is acting as if the pedal is partially pressed, suggesting the belt length is too short. Change to a longer belt to raise the idler pedal-up position away from the brake. As to length, there is always a kind seller out there that will sell you two or three to try and then allows a return of those that don't fit right.

[formariz 11,987]

So here are photos of my problem. Also my belt is the correct length. I have no way to adjust bracket . It has no adjustment. First photo shows with clutch not depressed. Second photo half depressed. Third photo fully depressed pinching belt to a stop. Fourth photo damage to top of belt.

 

 

[squonk 41,018]

12 hours ago, wallfish said:

The edges of the bracket should have bends so the actual edge of the metal does not contact the belt, just the curve at the bend. You can increase the the bend angle using an adjustable wrench and or also bend the bracket up a little at the 90 deg bend so it doesn't pinch the belt as tight. Just some slight tweaking should be enough. 

2nd that. That bracket shouldn't punch like that.

[formariz 11,987]

Part of the problem already starts on photo #2 with clutch partially depressed such as when wanting to move slower. Bracket contacts back of belt and creates friction on the belt wrap. It is clearly audible since wrap is textured. Nothing in that area has been modified. It seems intended to work  this way, hence the second fixed bracket under the belt against which it is pinched.

Edited October 12, 2019 by formariz