New Member with sad Wheel horse

[Racinbob 11,120]

 

I bought this 1976 new and used it with a blower and tiller a lot. The tower developed a crack I'm guessing in the 80's. I attributed it to not using the spring assist which put more stress on it. Not having a welder and wanting to try to keep it from getting worse you can see the plate I added. I only primed it and never got around to throwing some red paint on it. That was one of the first things that caught my eye when I was reunited with the tractor after 17 years apart. Exactly as I did it 30+ years ago, still doing it's job and no, it's not getting red paint now. 

[DeD 20]

13 hours ago, WHX24 said:

 DeD

That split  in the hood stand is very common with us. Truth be told I've never see one separated tho but I've always caught them and repaired long before it came to that. When I rub down my horses I always look for an issue in that area. We always supected if was from a deck hanging off that side but???? 

I guess is what I am saying is you should be looking for troubles before they start and it sounds like this one got away on you abit so your own fault.

In as much as our horses are pretty tough tractors they still need maintenance. I think you may have an @$$ chewing coming guy for riding her hard and putting her away wet guy! 

As far as parts yes EB is right for once in his life.. if you can't find parts you ain't lookin. I found  RS here a couple of years ago in a search for tractor parts for a  very homely and needing  1067  way older than yours and ended up up with with more models than I can even show love for. Thanks to RS and perseverance I hit more than a few home balls. 

Sorry no 118 hubs on hand..... looking  for a few my self ... a few 1 inches on  hand tho. I can also do custom hub reworking if needed and they are saveable.

 

Yea, I was warned about the split on the hood stand when I bought it decades ago. It was originally used it for mowing the yard till my wife out smarted me.

 

I was told the splitting comes from the clutch grabbing and not being as smooth as say a clutch on a car. I know on my tractor if your not used to it an let the clutch out "wrong" its easy for it to lift the front end up.

 

Truth be told I'll admit I work it hard, very hard, pulling an overloaded trailer is its main function for me.

I'm sure that is very hard on the hood stand, stressing the metal. I suspect that mine split when I killed the engine pulling a drag awhile ago. 

 

I have thought of putting a bullet in this thing more than once. But it would very hard for me to replace with something comparable. I've thought of using my wifes lawn tractor but I know it wouldn't last more than a month or two at the most.

So its cheaper and easier for me to fix this thing and keep it going so that's what I do.

 

Yes I could maintain it better, if you want to chew my @$$ out then go ahead, I guess maybe I've got it coming.

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,939]

I don't think any chewing will be necessary today. You seem to have learned the error of your ways.

 

 

 

No worries man. Some of us work them. Some of us show em .. Some of us do both.

 

It's all good. That's what they're there for.

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

19 hours ago, DeD said:

 

I realize that, that's why I'm working at repairing it.

The cost of repairs are usually very little compared to finding something that could replace it.

 

Biggest issue is finding parts. its what will eventually kill many of these things.

I have an extra hood stand if ya need one

[Ed Kennell 38,411]

9 hours ago, OILUJ52 said:

 

You may want to look at ED's keyway repair thread, it's pretty good.

I couldn't locate the keyway fix post Joe.     Maybe one of the Geeks can find it.   I do still have a few photos.

                                   Before

 

                                           The dummy brass key

 

Welding  around the key

 

        After clean up and fitting to the hub.

 

The seal and bearing were kept cool with wet rags during the welding.

[WHX?? 48,932]

I can't find it either Ed, thought maybe it got moved to instructionals? ... where did you score the brass key?

[Ed Kennell 38,411]

Dunno where the thread went Jim.   The brass key was made from a brass model hydro turbine wicket gate.   Next question...what's a wicket gate? 

[DeD 20]

I've decided to mill the key out to accept a regular 1/4 key that I'll make about 2 1/4 inches long.

I'll make a new pocket on the opposite side of the woodruff key and make it so that it can't slide out front or back.

 

Like I said, I'm more skilled with a mill than a welder plus I have a mill but no welder.

 

 

[DeD 20]

I took the entire hood stand off and repaired it.

I silver soldered some reinforcement plates ii where needed.

I also found the right side of the hood stand had a crack starting in it so I patched that too.

 

I surprisingly had some red paint around so I slapped some on it just for rust prevention.

 

I also found that one of the roller bearings for the axle had a broken shell. The needles could of escaped out of the side and into the differential.

I got it from NAPA, you can see the part number.

 

I'm waiting on some other stuff then I'll finish milling up the axles and start ass'y.

 

 

 

[Stormin 9,981]

16 hours ago, DeD said:

I also found that one of the roller bearings for the axle had a broken shell. The needles could of escaped out of the side and into the differential.

 

  Hopefully all the needles are still there.

 

  That had happened with my C-121 (The Black Horse) when I got it. The needles had gone through the case ball bearing and wrecked that. Drain the trans and see what comes out.

 

 

 

 There was even the end off the dipstick in there.

Edited October 24, 2019 by Stormin