Garry125 4 #1 Posted September 23, 2019 I picked up a 312-8. It has a snapped axleshaft and I picked up another transaxle. How hard is it to remove. Looks like four main bolts and taking all linkage off. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,357 #2 Posted September 23, 2019 If you've got half decent mechanical ability you'll be perfectly fine changing that transaxle. Nuts and bolts. Pins and clips. If you've never done one take lots of pictures or get the manual or even better, both. While you've got it out you should definitely put new seals in it. There are four of them. Also, the shift boot which is what keeps the water out of the top of the transmission. Ask lots of questions and please do post pics. All us loves our pics. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #3 Posted September 23, 2019 The new transaxle is the heavy duty one. I've worked on alot of cars and rebuilt engines. Just making sure theres no special tools or anything needed. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #4 Posted September 23, 2019 Hi Garry...Welcome to Red Square. It sounds like you just want to replace the trans you have with another one. If the brake shaft is in the same place on both transmissions, it should be an easy job. Can you take some pictures of both transmissions...especially the top and the left side. What do you mean by Heavy Duty. If it is the Heavy Duty Transmission that is called that by Wheel Horse...it is a 3 speed and the mounting bolt holes do not line up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #5 Posted September 23, 2019 It is a slight bit more involved, but not too bad. There are a couple of bolts holding the fuel tank support that bolt into the top of the transmission. I would suggest draining and refilling the replacement unit while it s out, raise the front to get complete draining. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #6 Posted September 27, 2019 I'm just going to replace the seals. With out tearing it apart. This is the 1 1/8 shaft. What are the part numbers for the seals. I also want to do the brake and pulley seals. How hard are the old seals to remove. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #7 Posted September 27, 2019 The seals are easy to remove (once the hubs have been removed). Just drill a small hole into the metal, run a screw into it and pry the seal out. 1 1/8" is SKF 11050, axles 1" is SKF 9815, brake shaft 3/4" is SKF 7410, input shaft 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #8 Posted September 27, 2019 Thank you. I'm gonna try to convert these at napa. Hope to have her going this weekend Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #9 Posted September 27, 2019 What you have there is an 8 speed transmission...probably a #5091. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #10 Posted October 2, 2019 So I got it swapped. Not to happy with the guy I bought the rearend from. It had lots of water in it. I flushed it with diesel fuel and flushed it 3 times. I'll be changing the seals once it comes out clear. Only problem I'm having is removing the pin for the hitch its rusted in there. Hopefully the kroil I ordered helps. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,357 #11 Posted October 2, 2019 11 minutes ago, Garry125 said: So I got it swapped. Not to happy with the guy I bought the rearend from. It had lots of water in it. I flushed it with diesel fuel and flushed it 3 times. I'll be changing the seals once it comes out clear. Only problem I'm having is removing the pin for the hitch its rusted in there. Hopefully the kroil I ordered helps. That's a pretty common issue. The shift boot gets cracked with age and let's water in. Also there's condensation. You did great doing the multiple flush. That Kroil will work wonders on the pin. You can help that some by drilling small holes to allow the oil to access the pin. Heat and patience will be your friends there. Keep us posted..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #12 Posted October 2, 2019 Where do I drill these holes. Pb blaster isnt doing a thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #13 Posted October 2, 2019 I would drill those holes the furthest most points away from the inside of the transmission if that makes sense. The size of holes I would drill would be what you could tap a quarter 28 threadAnd put in grease fittings later. I would drill two holes for two grease fittings . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,357 #14 Posted October 2, 2019 Just now, Garry125 said: Pb blaster Everybody has their preferences for what to use for penetrating oil. The Blaster company has a fantastic marketing department but in practical application I've had less than amazing results with their penetrating oil. I have used their spray tune up in a can on a little orange beast I was trying to get running and that was better. You will have much better results with kroil... I've also used good old-fashioned liquid wrench spray and I find that to be very comparable to the top notch penetrating concoctions. The holes could be located at the top of the flange that the pin goes through. I could take a picture later on to show you. One on each side as Randy says above. Tapping cast can be tough but it is possible. A torch would help you a lot even though it would really mess up the paint. Avoid using a hammer on the pin so as to not mushroom the ends. A large c-clamp with a socket on one end to catch the pin so to speak, is a good alternative. Once you get it to move even so much as a whisker it's just a matter of time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #15 Posted October 7, 2019 I've tried heating it drilling holes. Then even using wax. I'm only hitting on side of it. I have a spare pin. I can not get this thing loose for the life of me. When I heat it I can see kroil bubbling out. Used a pipe wrench to try and turn it. Kroil actually got my hub bolts out. But I snapped my puller trying to get the hub off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,357 #16 Posted October 7, 2019 2 hours ago, Garry125 said: I've tried heating it drilling holes. Then even using wax. I'm only hitting on side of it. I have a spare pin. I can not get this thing loose for the life of me. When I heat it I can see kroil bubbling out. Used a pipe wrench to try and turn it. Kroil actually got my hub bolts out. But I snapped my puller trying to get the hub off I haven't had one of those be so stubborn that I could not get it out at all. I've had to wait a couple weeks and use a lot of heat and oil and heat and oil and heat and oil. There are those of us who have had to drill those out which is obviously not the easiest thing to do. If you can get a really good close centering measurement and start your drilling with a Center punch then it's just a matter of time and stepping up drill sizes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry125 4 #17 Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) Finally some good news. Got it out heat and kroil then beat it to the left. Then added oil beat it to the right. Then sawzalled both ends as close as I can to the transmission. Used a socket extension and tapped it through. The spare one I covered with never seize. Went in like butter. Just in time had to put the bagger on for leaves. Edited October 20, 2019 by Garry125 Spelling issues 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #18 Posted October 20, 2019 57 minutes ago, Garry125 said: never seize. Wonderful stuff! Wish it had been used at the factory. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N875ED 98 #19 Posted October 22, 2019 Where can I source the gasket that goes between the case halves for this 8-speed transmission when I split it open? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,357 #20 Posted October 23, 2019 42 minutes ago, N875ED said: Where can I source the gasket that goes between the case halves for this 8-speed transmission when I split it open? Directly from a Toro dealer or online. My local place sells them for around 8 or 9 bucks each. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #21 Posted October 23, 2019 https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html i ordered some bearings thru these folks. Shipped quick. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,165 #22 Posted October 23, 2019 Not only that you are helping a fellow member who keeps us in quite a few parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
