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JamesBe1

D-180 Transmission

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JamesBe1

Hi folks. I have a D-180 with an Ark FEL that I picked up last year. I'm finally getting around to fixing it this year (I know, I procrastinate). Whenever I try to move it, it only goes about 20 or 30 feet, and looses power (engine still runs strong). If I move the speed control to its fullest, it makes a horrible sound that seems to be coming from the Sunstrand Pump. After that, it really doesn't want to move much at all (but will still make the noise if I try to get it to move).

I changed the oil and filter on the transmission, and it's still the same.

Has anyone experienced this before? Am I correct in assuming that the Hydro pump is shot? I was wondering how costly they are to have rebuilt. Anyone have a ballpark figure on that?

Now, I have a rear end from a C-145 that I got as a spare when I got my C-145 a few years back. It has a standard system with the hydrostatic pump and motor connected together. I was thinking about taking the pump off of that, and replacing the pump on the D-180. Does that seem feasible? I read the Wheel Horse Automatic Transmission Repair Manual, and I don't see why this can't be done, but I would like to hear from some of the more experienced members to see if there isn't something I'm overlooking.

Oh yeah, will I have to pull the engine on my D-180 to remove the Sunstrand pump? I am really hoping that won't be the case, but the Automatic Transmission Repair manual goes that route.

Sorry for the long winded explanation, I hope I didn't ramble too much. I would really appreciate any feedback. If I wasn't clear on anything, please ask.

Thanx in advance.

James

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Duff

Hi, James,

I don't know anything about D-series or hydro trannies, but I wanted to jump in and say :drool: !

I'm sure there will be someone along shortly with the info you need - this place is packed with great people and knowledge!

Glad to have you aboard!

Duff :omg:

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canam1991

This is a common problem, you are correct the pump is shot i have a C-165 and the rear end pump looks the same i would try it (cheaper) you will need to move the control lever on the other side but it should work unless the bolt pattern is different... just unbolt the motor from frame and move forward about 2" then unhook controls and unbolt the 10 or so bolts and it will come out!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but watch it when you pull the pump of the the solid line the oil will come out the dip stick (around a quart) and remember to replace the rubber o-rings :omg: :drool:

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JamesBe1

Thanx Canam. I noticed that the linkage was on the other side, but the donor pump looks to have a place to mount the linkage on the other side, so I figured I would just swap everything from one side to the other.

You kinda lost me on the unbolting part. I have the side panel off, and can easily access the linkage to remove it. After I unbolt it from the frame, what 10 or so bolts are left?

Thanx for the heads up about the oil. I think I'll drain the whole transmission before I start taking things apart.

Any idea on the cost to rebuild out of these?

James

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Rideawaysenior

James,

There are two big hinderances with rebuilding these. First, is the cost and second is finding the parts. You can expect to shell out $600.00 on up to have a rebuild done.

I've done a few and have found NOS parts at my local Wheel Horse shop as well as some area hydraulic shops. I'll dig out my contacts and post them to this thread. As far as a DIY project, if you have patience and follow the directions to the T, it's not that bad to do on your own. Just a word of caution, the first one is always the worst, do a couple and it gets better.

Jack

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canam1991

After I unbolt it from the frame, what 10 or so bolts are left?

there is four on the solid lines in the bottom of the pump the two or four more on the front of the pump leading to the side panels..... Rideawaysenior is correct about the price i would try a c series pump first to see if it works.... keep us in touch we want to see if will really work i've always wanted to see.!!!!!!!! :omg:

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Rollerman

A few things I'd like to add....

Double check the position of the tow valve.

Is the coupler between the engine & pump still in good shape?

Take a real good look at the hydro on you C145....most of these models used the Eaton 1100, some low serial# would have the Sundstrand though.

Keep us posted on what you find.

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JamesBe1

Canam,

Do you by any chance know what size o-rings are on the manifold? I am getting set to tackle this in a week or two and I want to have the parts on hand first. I find it better to not have to stop and go the the hardware store in the middle of surgery.

I got a used pump off of ebay a few weeks back. I thought I might have a greater chance of success with a pump off of a D series rather than one from a C-145. If I knew what O-ring to get up front, it would save me from either running to the hardware store in the middle or buying an o-ring assortment which would be a waste.

I appreciate the directions you gave earlier . I am sure it will make this operation go smoother. :omg: :drool:

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canam1991

it has been a while but i think they where 3/4" if i remember right :omg:

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canam1991

hey James how did you make out on this?

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JamesBe1

Finally got back at it Canam if you are still around and listening. Same problems, I am still trying to troubleshoot it.

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wh79d160

It sound like the coupler is spinning on the output shaft of the hydo pump & ate away the splines like was already mentioned. did you check that? Good luck.

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JamesBe1

It sound like the coupler is spinning on the output shaft of the hydo pump & ate away the splines like was already mentioned. did you check that? Good luck.

Thanx Tom.

Hmmm. No I didn't. But I will certainly go back and have a closer look at it. I have had the pump out and the coupler off of the engine. The splines on the pump input shaft look fine, and the coupler appears to sit on it nicely. But I think if I start it up and take a very close look at the pump input shaft, I should be able to verify that the pump and coupler are still spinning together.

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