Tiller Tightening Sequence?

[CodyB 1]

Hey! I've been snooping here for almost a year now. Finally posting something

 

Recently purchased a leaking tiller for my 520h. I tore it down, painted it, and replaced the oil seals and gasket, only to find it now leaking from the case. #frustrating

 

I intend to crack it back open later today or tomorrow and apply RTV. But I also heard that there is supposed to be a tightening sequence? Also torque specs? I have searched high and low, looked in the manuals I've downloaded, and haven't been able to find anything. Can you help me?

[Pullstart 62,799]

I can’t help, but I can say  @CodyB!

[Lost Pup 172]

I used "Ultra Black RTV" when I reaasembled  my tiller case. No torque order followed. It is still holding up well, no leaks at all.

 

[lynnmor 7,302]

Typically, you would tighten the center bolts first and progress towards the ends.  Do it in several steps till full torque is reached.  Since you will be splitting the case again, lay the two halves together and check flatness with feeler gauges at the mating surfaces.

[WHX?? 48,789]

Check the cases for cracks and don't over torque. Use the max torque settings or just below for those sized fasteners. Most of the horse stuff I work on leaks after assembly so I have taken to using a sealer and it does help in most cases.

 

[oliver2-44 9,695]

10 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 Since you will be splitting the case again, lay the two halves together and check flatness with feeler gauges at the mating surfaces.

 This is well worth the time, I've learned the hard way to do this on almost everything I disassemble.  A flat file can remove a few high spots that typically are the problem. 

[bc.gold 3,403]

Automotive valve covers and oil pans are notorious for creating inverted dimples at the bolt hole, a major cause for oil leakage. Clamp a block of steel in your vise to use as a dolly then hammer those dimpled areas back into shape where they belong.

[Pullstart 62,799]

11 hours ago, bcgold said:

Automotive valve covers and oil pans are notorious for creating inverted dimples at the bolt hole, a major cause for oil leakage. Clamp a block of steel in your vise to use as a dolly then hammer those dimpled areas back into shape where they belong.

 

Isn’t the tiller body a thick casting like a transmission though?

[lynnmor 7,302]

12 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

Isn’t the tiller body a thick casting like a transmission though?

They are heavy cast iron, hammer on it and then recycle the scrap metal. 

[Racinbob 11,045]

I agree.....do NOT hammer on it. Chances are there's nothing wrong with the casing. More likely the gasket slipped or some of the old gasket was still stuck to it. Get a new gasket and try again making sure the mating surfaces are spotless. I personally would use gasket sealer on the gasket too. 

[Lane Ranger 10,946]

I have a tiller that has never been apart and it has a very small leak that does not bother me!   I always check fluids before using a tractor or implements like a tiller.  

 

Gasket is probably the issue here but wear and tear rough on these things.  The oil seals are more prone to leak and you have two on each side of the shafts in the housing.

 

 

[CodyB 1]

I took it apart, cleaned it, used sand paper on it to make sure it was extra clean, then cleaned it again with a paper towel soaked in carb cleaner. I put the RTV on it and got it back together per instructions, tightening from the inside out the best I could. Filled it up the next day (today). It seems to not leak. Will run it tomorrow. Thanks for your help!!

[lynnmor 7,302]

Did you use 1 quart of gear lube?  Older manuals didn't specify the oil or amount.  See this manual, Page 19.