Voltage regulator

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

So I'm sitting here looking at the manual of the wiring on a 312-8  and trying to figure out where the regulator is. Can someone point this out for me because I'm missing it. 

[adsm08 2,384]

I don't see the regulator or the generator on that page, is there another page for that tractor?

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

This is the wiring diagram for the

312-8

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,176]

No regulator. 

Just a diode the rectify a 3 amp stator to charge the battery and a 2nd stator that powers the lights only with AC current.

 

Garry

[pfrederi 18,180]

Welcome to when WH went CHEAP!!!!

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

Wow

[clueless 3,074]

My 312-8 with the mag engine has a 15amp regulator on the front of the engine shroud. I thought the 310 and 308 were the only ones with the 3amp, could be wrong, it's been known to happen.

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

my 414-8 mag has one mounted to 

the front of the shroud. This the most

reliable tractor! 

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

 Is it possible to add a 15 amp stater and a regulator to the system ?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,176]

Sure you can. This is a K301 or M12?

 

Garry

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

10 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Sure you can. This is a K301 or M12?

 

Garry

Its a k 301

[pfrederi 18,180]

2 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

Its a k 301

Used stators are on ebay a lot.  You will need the regulator and have to rewire your head lights. Easy game.

[The Tuul Crib 7,338]

59 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Used stators are on ebay a lot.  You will need the regulator and have to rewire your head lights. Easy game.

Im picking up three motors today . Hopefully one of them are good.

[Tractorhead 9,065]

I would do as pfrederi suggested, order a simple Charging coil and upgrade the actual system,

the regulators until 15A also available on same source.

 

The charging coils have two wires, where the regulator will be connected (ac in) 

and the Output can be simple attached to Battery. I would insert a 20A fuse, in case if Regulator blows.

 

The Lights are on one side connected to Ground and other side simply rewired after switch with a fuse 

to + on battery.

 

easy to do, and most benefit by less work.

 

[Tractorhead 9,065]

5 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

Im picking up three motors today . Hopefully one of them are good.

 

 

Like the old meaning 

better to have than to need...

[Hardesty435 1]

I have two wheel horse 312-8 models, one is a 1988 model with the magnum engine, the other is a 1985 with the K301 engine. The magnum engine has the 3 wire voltage regulator mounted on the front motor shroud, the non-magnum does not, when I put my volt meter in dc volts and check the battery cables with it running, no battery, it is showing over 200 volts and the wiring is getting hot, what is suppose to regulate my voltage, I thought that I read that all models didn't have regulators, could the stator be bad and sending to much current???   

[Handy Don 13,084]

Does “no battery” mean you’ve disconnected it with the engine running and are then taking measurements?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,176]

1985 and 1986 312 models with the K301 has 2 stators.

One provides AC current directly to the light circuit. The DC bulbs work fine with AC voltage.

The 2nd stator has a diode at it's output that rectifies the AC current to DC to charge the battery. It is not regulated as the 3 amp output theoretically will not overcharge the battery.

 

Most models have a decal on them warning not to run without a battery connected. The possible 200 volts is the reason why. A digital voltmeter is capable of picking them up but so will other 12 volt components in the system and they may expire.

An analog voltmeter won't display them because they react slower but they are still there.

 

Garry

[Hardesty435 1]

12 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

1985 and 1986 312 models with the K301 has 2 stators.

One provides AC current directly to the light circuit. The DC bulbs work fine with AC voltage.

The 2nd stator has a diode at it's output that rectifies the AC current to DC to charge the battery. It is not regulated as the 3 amp output theoretically will not overcharge the battery.

 

Most models have a decal on them warning not to run without a battery connected. The possible 200 volts is the reason why. A digital voltmeter is capable of picking them up but so will other 12 volt components in the system and they may expire.

An analog voltmeter won't display them because they react slower but they are still there.

 

Garry

Well here is the problem, when the battery was in it, the wiring harness next to the fuses was getting extremely hot, to the point it was melting the fuse, when i unhooked the battery, the engine ran smoother, like it was laboring when hooked up to the battery, and the fuse didn't seem to get as hot, where can I locate the stators,  and is there a way to check them?   

thanks in advance

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,176]

That is strange.

Battery negative does ground to the chassis?

Is the correct stator lead with the diode near the connector connected to the white wire? 

Garry

[Handy Don 13,084]

The troubleshooting guide is terrific. Is that available for download @gwest_ca?

[953 nut 56,741]

12 hours ago, Hardesty435 said:

Well here is the problem, when the battery was in it, the wiring harness next to the fuses was getting extremely hot, to the point it was melting the fuse, when i unhooked the battery, the engine ran smoother, like it was laboring when hooked up to the battery, and the fuse didn't seem to get as hot, where can I locate the stators,  and is there a way to check them?   

thanks in advance

Looking at the drawings that Garry @gwest_ca provided I would start with the fuse and the fuse holder, If one or both are badly corroded they will act like a low resistance voltage drop resistor and generate a lot of heat. Here is an explanation that @Save Old Iron posted a few years ago.

 

• Think about it - if you forced a sudden surge of lets say 35 amps thru a 30 amp fuse - the fuse internal element slowly "melts" - usually within a few seconds - you see a melted wire in the fuse body and the fuse body and leads remain looking like they originally did ( give or take a little). If you dead shorted the battery thru the fuse to the chassis, you may blacken the inside of the fuse but the fusible element melts long before you have a chance to cook the entire fuse body like in your picture.
• Same idea for the white plastic engine harness connector - the brown discoloration is from cooked plastic - where is the heat coming from ?? The "Molex" style connectors used in this tractor series are in a harsh, corrosive environment. Vibration causes the connections to loosen - corrosion starts within the metal terminals and a voltage drop develops across the corrosion.
• If you have a 10 amp current flowing across a 1 ohm resistance (contact corrosion) the electronics formula to calculate power = current squared times resistance
• so 10 amps x 10amps x 1 ohm resistance = 100 watts !!
• 100 watts of connector heating is the same as laying a 100 watt soldering iron on the connector.

[squonk 41,936]

What kind of fuse holder do you have on it. does it look like this? 

 

If so throw it as far as you can and get something like this: 

 

Those round fuse holders are not waterproof and as they age the internal spring corrodes and weakens causing heat , bad connections and all sorts of weird happenings.

[Hardesty435 1]

12 hours ago, squonk said:

What kind of fuse holder do you have on it. does it look like this? 

 

If so throw it as far as you can and get something like this: 

 

Those round fuse holders are not waterproof and as they age the internal spring corrodes and weakens causing heat , bad connections and all sorts of weird happenings.

it is like the bottom holder

[Hardesty435 1]

14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Looking at the drawings that Garry @gwest_ca provided I would start with the fuse and the fuse holder, If one or both are badly corroded they will act like a low resistance voltage drop resistor and generate a lot of heat. Here is an explanation that @Save Old Iron posted a few years ago.

 

• Think about it - if you forced a sudden surge of lets say 35 amps thru a 30 amp fuse - the fuse internal element slowly "melts" - usually within a few seconds - you see a melted wire in the fuse body and the fuse body and leads remain looking like they originally did ( give or take a little). If you dead shorted the battery thru the fuse to the chassis, you may blacken the inside of the fuse but the fusible element melts long before you have a chance to cook the entire fuse body like in your picture.
• Same idea for the white plastic engine harness connector - the brown discoloration is from cooked plastic - where is the heat coming from ?? The "Molex" style connectors used in this tractor series are in a harsh, corrosive environment. Vibration causes the connections to loosen - corrosion starts within the metal terminals and a voltage drop develops across the corrosion.
• If you have a 10 amp current flowing across a 1 ohm resistance (contact corrosion) the electronics formula to calculate power = current squared times resistance
• so 10 amps x 10amps x 1 ohm resistance = 100 watts !!
• 100 watts of connector heating is the same as laying a 100 watt soldering iron on the connector.

thanks, I will check the fuse holders for corrosion.