Stud time

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

  With my Gt1600 in the garage getting new brakes it seemed like the perfect time to install the stud kit I bought off Bob @rmaynard a couple years back.  

  Checked the hub set screws while I was in there. This is a dedicated plow machine so it gets worked hard.

  I decided to leave my inner and outer weights on (call me lazy), it’s still a chore to get em mounted but for sure it’s easier than using the old style lug bolts. 

  She just needs an oil change and she’ll be ready for winter.

  Definitely not a “pretty tractor” but it’s so dang dependable, she earned  a bath with soap and all 

[roadapples 6,983]

Thought maybe you were feeling your oats....

[ebinmaine 70,698]

9 minutes ago, Sparky said:

decided to leave my inner and outer weights on (call me lazy), 

I've told many people over the years...

 

There's a fine line between laziness and efficiency. And I ride right on that line.....

 

 

 

I think wheel studs on these may very well be the Best Modification anybody can do to a Wheelhorse.

 

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

50 minutes ago, roadapples said:

Thought maybe you were feeling your oats....

Haha! Sorta...but after muckling the rears on with both inside and outside weights installed I was ready for a nap 😴 

[AMC RULES 37,145]

Should've saved that job for the son...

in return for his regrade project.  

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

53 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

There's a fine line between laziness and efficiency. And I ride right on that line.....

 

  I considered removing the weights, but instead of using separate bolts for the inside and outside weights I just used real long bolts and bolted em all on as one. It’s a real pain to get it all lined up and bolted together.    

  These rears haven’t been off in a few years so it’s not often I find myself having to do this.

  I did set up my sons new WH with inside weights held on with their own bolts. 

[squonk 42,515]

An easy way to R & R wheels with weights or weighted wheels or both: Go to HF and get one of those dollies to move cars with. Jack up the tractor enough to get the dollie under the tire. Unbolt the wheel and roll it out and visey versey to re-install.

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

Just now, squonk said:

An easy way to R & R wheels with weights or weighted wheels or both: Go to HF and get one of those dollies to move cars with. Jack up the tractor enough to get the dollie under the tire. Unbolt the wheel and roll it out and visey versey to re-install.

That’s a real good idea!

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

Nice job Mike. That should work out fine. But did you put a lock washer on them = rim?

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

9 hours ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

Nice job Mike. That should work out fine. But did you put a lock washer on them = rim?

No lock washers were installed. Couldn’t use one against the rim if that’s what your suggesting. Are you saying behind the bolt head on the backside of the hub?

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

I was thinking at the nut. Or may be lock nuts. If you going to use it on the heavy side cheap insurance.

[ebinmaine 70,698]

6 minutes ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

I was thinking at the nut. Or may be lock nuts. If you going to use it on the heavy side cheap insurance.

They run fine Gary.

I have wheel studs on the Cinnamon horse and I keep the nuts torqued at whatever the spec is. 35 lb? I run it a little on the heavy side and do them to about 40.

 

Because I know I run heavy tractor and heavy loads I go back and retorque them after a few hours use. Then they are fine for the rest of the season.

 

With the plow and with me sitting on it that tractor weighs nearly 1,400 lb.

Mountainous rough terrain and plowing snow and towing heavy loads.

I've never had a problem with a wheel stud or nut loosening.

 

I got the habit of retorquing them from being in the trucking industry.

We run our trucks anywhere from 100 to 300 miles after a wheel removal for any reason and then go back and have the shop retorque them.

After that they are fine until the next time the wheel needs to come off.

 

The wheel nuts I use are a tapered seat nut just as a 60s or 70s car would use. No place for a lock washer in there.

 

Edited September 15, 2019 by ebinmaine
Correct autocorrect and added content

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

I hear you Eric I just thought if you washers or lock nuts that would eliminate re torqueing? Or am out of touch on this?

[ebinmaine 70,698]

2 minutes ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

I hear you Eric I just thought if you washers or lock nuts that would eliminate re torqueing? Or am out of touch on this?

You are correct about that. It does eliminate the need for a retorquing.

 

It's the tapered seat Automotive lug nuts that necessitate going back and retorquing.

 

Knowing that I am using a cast-iron hub with a stamped steel wheel and they both expand and contract and flex at different rates is what makes me go back to do the re-torque.

 

Just as a point of interest our big trucks run 10 lugs that are probably a 5/8 or 3/4 stud.

Usually after a few hundred miles one or two out of the ten is just a little bit loose.

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 22,048]

It’s easy to get to the lug nuts to check tightness with the wheel weights I’m running so I won’t be adding lockwashers at this time

[Stormin 9,983]

   I think I'll have to see if I can get some nuts and set screws over here.  

 

  When putting wheels back on, I do the same as I refit my Land Rover wheels. I have one of those short handled ex-military spades. Put the wheel on it and you can lever the wheel up into position.

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

On 9/15/2019 at 8:41 AM, ebinmaine said:

You are correct about that. It does eliminate the need for a retorquing.

 

It's the tapered seat Automotive lug nuts that necessitate going back and retorquing.

 

Knowing that I am using a cast-iron hub with a stamped steel wheel and they both expand and contract and flex at different rates is what makes me go back to do the re-torque.

 

Just as a point of interest our big trucks run 10 lugs that are probably a 5/8 or 3/4 stud.

Usually after a few hundred miles one or two out of the ten is just a little bit loose.

 

Well I guess I over think things some times. I remember when I had my F250 H.D. I had to do that.  

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

20 hours ago, Sparky said:

It’s easy to get to the lug nuts to check tightness with the wheel weights I’m running so I won’t be adding lockwashers at this time

Well Mike that looks like it is a heavy duty set up. Hope to see you next month at Zag`s. Enjoy the tractor.

[ebinmaine 70,698]

9 minutes ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

Well I guess I over think things some times. I remember when I had my F250 H.D. I had to do that.  

Oh no. I wouldn't say that Gary.

 

There are a few different kinds of lug nuts and it's highly possible you had a different set up on your truck than what I'm using for these wheels.

And to be honest, I would much rather have someone over thinking something and double triple analyzing it and bringing something to my attention that I may have missed.

 

[Retired Wrencher 5,635]

On 9/13/2019 at 4:09 PM, squonk said:

An easy way to R & R wheels with weights or weighted wheels or both: Go to HF and get one of those dollies to move cars with. Jack up the tractor enough to get the dollie under the tire. Unbolt the wheel and roll it out and visey versey to re-install.

I will have to try that one Mike. Thanks for the post.

[kpinnc 13,718]

On 9/13/2019 at 11:29 AM, ebinmaine said:

think wheel studs on these may very well be the Best Modification anybody can do to a Wheelhorse

 

Absolutely agree!