The "Colossus" project

[953 nut 55,285]

On 9/9/2019 at 6:36 AM, ebinmaine said:

Might sound like a silly question but I've never actually seen one. Do those bolt up to a regular 8-speed?

A determined individual with a welder and a drill can make anything fit!

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

On 9/11/2019 at 12:00 AM, oliver2-44 said:

 

Why not add a "spare tire" to your design, kind of like the old cars that had the spare mounted on the front running board. 

Then you can fill and adjust the spare weight as desired.     

 

 

Picturing that in my head, I like the idea for looks alone! 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

8 hours ago, LengerichKA88 said:

Picturing that in my head, I like the idea for looks alone! 

Certainly would be interesting....

[Lee1977 6,663]

That tractor frame you are using is it a long frame or short frame?  

[ebinmaine 67,565]

Long frame from a 3,4,500 series.

It has the second set of step support bars.

 

[Justice77 163]

Looks like a fun project you have there. I'll be following along!

[953 nut 55,285]

Just found a bit of inspiration for you!                         

[troutbum70 857]

That's a rat rod 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

Been too busy with work the last few days to do anything but move the project around in the shed a couple times.

I did find a spacer for the length to go between the frame and transmission.

 

Our fabrication friend is getting me a piece of 6 x 6 tube steel cut to 7" length.

I'll cap one side and leave the hole facing downward to access the bolts.

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Still Following the Project.

 

Don‘t forget nothing is happen, without Pic‘s....😎

 

👍😉

[wallfish 17,010]

Concerning the centering of the engine weight over the frame, you could use a jack shaft which would allow the engine to slide lateral on the frame. The jack will allow for alignment of the pulleys. No counter weight needed just a little engineering

Just and a suggestion.

 

[Lee1977 6,663]

19 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Concerning the centering of the engine weight over the frame, you could use a jack shaft which would allow the engine to slide lateral on the frame. The jack will allow for alignment of the pulleys. No counter weight needed just a little engineering

Just and a suggestion.

 

I though of that too he has a problem with the clutch with the engine line up with the transmission pulley.  If you move the engine over and add a jackshaft he will have a even less room for the brake.

Edited September 21, 2019 by Lee1977

[wallfish 17,010]

1 minute ago, Lee1977 said:

I though of that too he has a problem with the clutch with the engine line up with the transmission pulley.  If you move the engine over and add a jackshaft he will have a even less room for the brake.

The jack shaft can be located any where. Drop it straight down or even in front of the engine but below the frame rail.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

@wallfish

I didn‘t know the wording „Jackshaft“, but that was also my first suggestion i meant before.

 

It was just depending on Framelenght and Belt lenght, where it was located.

With both sided Flanged Bearings, they’re mounted in long holes, it can also be adjustable to align the Belts.

 

As an Advantage i see, that if the jackshaft is more to the Front, it can also being used with an added Pulley as

direct driven PTO shaft for some later needs.

 

 

I thinkin about two of the Bearings you can see in the pict middle up as proposal.

 

in them the Axle „jackshaft“ can be clamped by 2 Screws for easy align and adjusting.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

@wallfish and @Tractorhead

I LIKE the idea of a jackshaft.

I REALLY would like to have better weight balance.

 

I have very limited space between the engine and steering fan gear but may fit it there.

 

Like @Lee1977 says above I'll have to account for the position of the brake pedal in that equation. 

[wallfish 17,010]

With the extra shaft and pulleys you can easily adjust the size of the pulleys for more speed or more power or just match the original gearing.

If needed, the brake pedal slides on the 3/4 rod so you can move that outward from the frame if necessary. Just use 3/4 lock collars to keep it in position. Some bending of the linkage rod will probably be needed or another jack shaft type rod can be used with a couple of levers to link the rods. Basically the same idea as the pulley jack shaft.

 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

16 minutes ago, wallfish said:

adjust the size of the pulleys for more speed or more power

That's another reason I wanted to use that setup.

Going from 23" to 30" tires I'll need to slow the tractor down dramatically.

Even with 23s I RARELY get into 3rd.

 

 

Nice drawings John... 

It's good for me to see a visual.

 

I'll check the clearance for the brake pedal.

 

Where would one procure the pieces to assemble the jackshaft?

 

 

Also... I want to thank @Lee1977 for his input and alot of help with design and ideas.

 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

19 hours ago, wallfish said:

jack shaft can be located any where

Keep in mind I'm using flat C-series steps too.

The design of the belt system will need to clear them.

 

[wallfish 17,010]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Where would one procure the pieces to assemble the jackshaft?

Here's where I get stuff. You can find the bearings, shaft, pulleys, belts ect. ect. ect.

Use 3/4 keyed shaft so the pulleys will lock in place

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/

 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Here's where I get stuff. You can find the bearings, shaft, pulleys, belts ect. ect. ect.

Use 3/4 keyed shaft so the pulleys will lock in place

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/

 

Nice.

Thank you.

I'll look and see what I've got for pulleys and do some thinkin'.

 

[Pullstart 62,905]

EB, you could run a holesaw through a factory belt guard and assemble the jackshaft accordingly, if needed.  Use that new welder to build the angle iron belt guard frame a bolt a new cover over your outer pulley.  The brake pedal moving outward shouldn’t be affected by that design and essentially the factory brake lever has a jackshaft... from the right pedal through the frame to your brake band   If the C series step interferes, you can trim the inside a bit too.  They’re thick enough, you can trim as needed and still retain their rigidity.

 

This is all thinking from memory of tearing down a C series two summers ago and after a couple quality German beverages...  sorry if it doesn’t actually work out on paper 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

Folks I'd like to hear your suggestions for the color of a Colossus.

 

Like when you think of the word what comes to mind?

 

We're thinking of a multiple color rig here and for some reason I think of dark colors.

 

The engine block will most likely be high temp flat black.

 

Possibilities could be 

All shades of black.

Silver

Copper

Apple red

 

 

NO "other brand" matches will be used but shades of other colors could be considered.

 

What are your thoughts?

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,596]

Hhhhhmm...

 

 Red?

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Red to Black fading...

 

[ebinmaine 67,565]

37 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Hhhhhmm...

 

 Red?

 

Some portion or another will be red.

 

Not the whole thing though.

I'm curious to see what you all think would be good contrasting colors or whatever...