Kohler K301 spark plug type

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

Hi all,  I am working through the engine restoration, sorting out the main possible issues such as bore and piston wear. Everything looks good so far.

I'm buying the parts I need as I go along as there is not an engine service kit available here as far as I know. 

The spark plug fitted when I got the engine sits quite deep in the head, not coming down I to the combustion chamber. 

Is this right or do I have the wrong plug?  Can anyone tell me the right plug for this engine? The wheelhorse data books say a champion H10 plug with an 11.2mm long thread.

I'm also wondering about the coil, should I try it with the original or get a new one from the off. 

Regards Mick 

 

[953 nut 55,243]

[Burnerman 758]

I run an H10 in my K241. They are slightly recessed in the head iirc. 

[squonk 41,118]

I use Autolite 216

[richmondred01 2,237]

H10

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

Champion h10 here

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

H10 it is then, thanks gents, I just didnt think it looked right not sitting right down into the combustion chamber. 

Regards Mick 

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

I'm waiting for gaskets, seem to be hard to get hold of via my local mower dealer. They dont do a gasket kit so I'm having to order and buy them as I come to them. 

The bearing plate gasket for the crank has different thicknesses to allow changing the end float on the crank and I'm struggling to source a set.

Coming on though, I'm pleased I decided to give it a go with your help.

Mick 

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

Got everything back together, just trying to sort out the wiring harness so I can give it a try. 

Mick 

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

So, I refitted the wiring loom as it came off, no huge issues.

She turns over, but no spark. 

Not sure if I have everything right so I'm going to check the wiring diagram and have a look in the morning.

One thing I noticed is there are only two wires going to the regulator. Dont think that would affect the spark. 

Hoping the coil is not shot, doesn't look like an original unit so I might need to find a new one. Will a 12v coil for a car be ok? 

Mick 

 

[953 nut 55,243]

3 hours ago, Mickwhitt said:

Will a 12v coil for a car be ok?

If that car is a 12 volt VW Betel then you will be fine!   The ignition coil has an internal resistor and most automobile coils don't have that. Tractor supply sells tractor coils with the internal resistor.

Before you go out to buy a new coil be sure you are getting 12 volts to the coil "+" side and your ignition points are set to .020" maximum opening which is a preliminary setting.

Edited September 28, 2019 by 953 nut
fat finger

[ZXT 2,401]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

If that car is a 12 volt VW Betel then you will be fine!   The ignition coil has an internal resistor and most automobile coils don't have that. Tractor supply sells tractor coils with the internal resistor.

Before you go out to buy a new coil be sure you are getting 12 volts to the coil "+" side and your ignition points are set to .020" maximum opening which is a preliminary setting.

60s-70s fords also used an internal resistor coil. If you try for one at an auto parts store, tell them you want a coil for like a 65 mustang with a 289. Should be cheap and in stock.

 

Chrysler used a ballast resistor and GM used either a resistor wire or a ballast resistor depending on the year, so those are out.

Edited September 29, 2019 by ZXT

[953 nut 55,243]

8 hours ago, ZXT said:

60s-70s fords also used an internal resistor coil. If you try for one at an auto parts store, tell them you want a coil for like a 65 mustang with a 289. Should be cheap and in stock.

          Ford had two wires going to the coil, a resistor wire that was attached to the ignition switch and a non-resistor wire that connected to the "I" terminal of the solenoid. While the starter was turning the coil would receive 12 volts.

[ZXT 2,401]

5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

          Ford had two wires going to the coil, a resistor wire that was attached to the ignition switch and a non-resistor wire that connected to the "I" terminal of the solenoid. While the starter was turning the coil would receive 12 volts.

There I go thinking I know things! I know that I have a few ford script coils somewhere that are plainly marked as internal resistor. I was told by someone that they would've been off of what I mentioned above.. I wonder what they're really off of? A tractor maybe?

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

Why you little...... 

Just found out why no spark at the plug.

Brand new set of points fitted and the contact facts were covered in protective varnish  quick rub with Alox paper and off we go. 

Schoolboy error, it's been a long time since I did my apprenticeship and learned the basics lol. 

[953 nut 55,243]

1 hour ago, ZXT said:

I have a few ford script coils somewhere that are plainly marked as internal resistor. I was told by someone that they would've been off of what I mentioned above.. I wonder what they're really off of? A tractor maybe?

Perhaps they were tractor coils, Ford went to 12 volts on tractors in 1965.  Is there a part number on them?

[ZXT 2,401]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Perhaps they were tractor coils, Ford went to 12 volts on tractors in 1965.  Is there a part number on them?

I'll have to see if I can find them - they might be stored out where I keep all of my cars. I'll check the next time I'm out there.

[Mickwhitt 4,625]

I bought a new coil and condenser and made a bracket for it. 

Now got a good spark and a fine looking coil mounting.

The ammeter had been bypassed and it turned out to be corrosion on the terminals not allowing current to flow. That's now working.

So do I knock up a temporary fuel tank and fire her up on the bench. Or mount the engine in the chassis to run it up for the first time?

Bearing mind it is just free standing on my bench and not bolted down. I may have answered my own question there.

Mick 

[953 nut 55,243]

1 hour ago, Mickwhitt said:

answered my own question

         After all the work you have done we don't want it crashing to the floor!