XLT 13 #1 Posted August 28, 2019 OK, not sure what part I'm missing, but currently can't shift with the motor running. It seems that the drive belt had just enough tension to continue turning the drive pulley even in neutral. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,355 #2 Posted August 28, 2019 First thing comes to mind... Is your belt guard on? Your belt GUARD is the belt GUIDE. If it isn't there the belt won't free up enough. Or The little tabs at the nose of the guard are bent down a bit. Or The belt is a tiny bit too tight. What's the tractor details and where's the belt from? Also, have you double checked the belt to verify it was packaged correctly? Pics would help too. We love to look at tractors.... 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #3 Posted August 28, 2019 Ah, no, no belt guard. Didn't come with one, and haven't located one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,865 #4 Posted August 28, 2019 As EB said, your belt guard is crucial to the belt & clutch working properly. When you step on the clutch the little tab on the belt guard, guides the belt to push some of the slack in the belt towards the drive pulley so the belt will stop turning. These transmissions are not synchronized, so they won't s shift if they are turning. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,355 #5 Posted August 28, 2019 23 minutes ago, XLT said: Ah, no, no belt guard. Didn't come with one, and haven't located one. What's that on Jonah? C-160? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #6 Posted August 28, 2019 Jonah? This is a Model 701 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,355 #7 Posted August 28, 2019 Just now, XLT said: Jonah? This is a Model 701 Never mind the Jonah. :-). I used talk to text and it fails often. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,355 #8 Posted August 28, 2019 Is that something that could be made up from somebody else's pattern? other than having to shut it off to shift it, at least it is headed to being drivable. That's a huge plus. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,607 #9 Posted August 28, 2019 ...and there's the problem. Short of finding and installing the belt guard, you might be able to fashion some wire guides to assist the belt in moving away from the drive pulley. On my 701, the wire guide at the bottom assists the belt in moving away from the pulley. The top of the belt guard does the rest. Not sure if this is original, but it's been working for me since I got the tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #10 Posted August 28, 2019 Yeah, except the whole electric system is out of it... got a pull start motor in it right now... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #11 Posted August 28, 2019 Not the original motor or pulleyso the belt length is my best guess. Been thinking of how I can force the slack forward, seems to be the issue. Will update. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #12 Posted August 28, 2019 I don’t have a picture, but on my c 101 the guide on the clutch idler pulley acts like a brake on the belt. It pushes the belt against a tab on the frame under the belt guard when the clutch is full depressed and stops the belt instantly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #13 Posted August 28, 2019 Yeah, that's what I was thinking. It seems like a function that is performed by the belt guard but that doesn't have to be performed only by the belt guard. Needs to be some way to make sure the belt slack is forward of the idler pulley is all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #14 Posted August 28, 2019 We did this on Howard's horse and it worked great on his. His belt is a lot shorter then yours, but it still might be enough to work. We used like #109 wire. ace would have it if you do not have something lying around. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
870express 116 #15 Posted August 28, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, ebinmaine said: We love to look at tractors.... Is the drive pulley rusted? If it is, the pulley inner surface will create more friction with the belt. It should be clean and shiny. Not like this - Edited August 28, 2019 by 870express 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #16 Posted August 28, 2019 Pulley is brand new, so excess friction from rust isn't the issue. I had mentally considered something like those wire brackets on the idler arm itself to push the belt forward as the idler was depressed. What think ye? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,355 #17 Posted August 28, 2019 Just now, XLT said: What think ye? Belt guard will be the ultimate solution but those certainly can't hurt anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #18 Posted August 28, 2019 Yeah, the belt guards for the 701 seems pretty scarce... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #19 Posted August 28, 2019 They may be rare, but if you do not have the correct engine or pulley you may have to fabricate something. 1962 belt guards are more common and they may work. Like you said, also, the guess on that belt you put on there may be to short to have enough slack to push forward. Contact A-Z Tractors...one of our vendors...to see if he can help you out with a guard. I would think that with a 702 guard and the bent wires on the engine near the drive pulley, you will be OK. You might try bending your own from sheet metal. BTW, when you try the bent wire, it needs to be about 1/4" from the belt...top and bottom. Something to think about...a belt guard has a lip bent along the bottom. That is what supports the belt when the slack is there and pushes it toward the front. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #20 Posted August 28, 2019 I did a little manual checking. Turns out the belt guard for the 701 (1961) and the 702 (1962) are the same part # 4202. This is for the Kohler 7 hsp...the belt guard for the 1962 Tecumseh's (502 and 551) is not the same number...#4423. I suggest you measure the distance between the center of your input trans pulley and the center of your engine drive pulley. Also measure the outside dia of your engine drive pulley. I have a 702 and can do the same thing. It may be that a 702 guard will work on your 701. Let me know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elliot Garfinkel 166 #21 Posted September 8, 2019 Hi trying to follow threads on the 702 shifting I have the guard on I'm on my third belt and still seems that the belt doesn't disengage enough to shift without some grinding I'm not sure if I'm missing anything on the guard or on the block. I see that their is a clip on the front guard bolt but I dont think that has anything to do with it I see in your 3rd picture a guide I guess I'm missing that or is that instead of a guard, thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XLT 13 #22 Posted September 8, 2019 On 8/28/2019 at 3:20 PM, stevasaurus said: I did a little manual checking. Turns out the belt guard for the 701 (1961) and the 702 (1962) are the same part # 4202. This is for the Kohler 7 hsp...the belt guard for the 1962 Tecumseh's (502 and 551) is not the same number...#4423. I suggest you measure the distance between the center of your input trans pulley and the center of your engine drive pulley. Also measure the outside dia of your engine drive pulley. I have a 702 and can do the same thing. It may be that a 702 guard will work on your 701. Let me know. Do you have a 702 belt guard, Stevsaurus? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elliot Garfinkel 166 #23 Posted September 8, 2019 Yes I think it is complete as compared to the manual except for that clip on the front bolt which I think is a cable clamp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,866 #24 Posted September 8, 2019 Yes, I have a 702 guard on my 702. Need some measurements?? Elliot, make sure your drive belt is a 5/8 and not 1/2" or less. The pulleys are made to be able to release the belt out of the notch. A narrower belt does not do the slack thing properly. This information is not correct...the 702 belt is supposed to be 1/2". sorry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elliot Garfinkel 166 #25 Posted September 8, 2019 Oh ok I'm on my 4th belt 1/2 ×70-74 using the 5/8 should I go back to the 70inch specs i just reread your reply about taking measurements with all the other belts i had what i thought a unusual amount of rubber debris so their is nothing I'm missing on the guard or block . Thanks i really appreciate the help i was starting to run out of belts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
