The Adventures of Hot Wheels

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

That is a head scratcher.  Check all the obvious stuff first—no binding in the cable, connections from ram to hitch are good, make sure the belt to the pump is tight enough to keep it turning, make sure you have enough rpm’s, hose condition, what type of fluid are you running, etc...

 

Maybe @Achto @Shynon @WHX24 Will check in with their thoughts on HY-2 pump setup.  My only hands on experience is on my Cub and that one has worked so far.  When the engine rpm is half throttle or less it is pretty slow.  Dad’s on Clyde was a little slow at first but seemed to work pretty well this summer at the August plow day.

[Pullstart 62,783]

It has ATF in the pump and I’m running full RPM’s.  All seems fine as far as basics go, belt tension, etc.  When I help the plow, it lifts fine too.  When I started my food plot everything was fine, then I seemed to have lost pressure and it hasn’t come back fully.  There is no whine from the pump either.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Hi Buddy,

 

it sounded to me, you reached maybe the max load of the Hydraulics, but i doubt about.

Is there maybe a safetyvalve on the Pump or on the steeringvalve, to restrict the max. Oilpressure, to protect the system?

 

I don‘t know, how much is the given Value, your Hydraulic shall be able to lift, but i can imagine, that ATF was to less viscosity, to be usable for.

 

In my experiences, the usability of Hydraulic system was also be needed the right hydraulicfluid in it’s viscosity

and there where several viscosity‘s of gear/ Hydraulicoil available.

As far as i know, your Hydraulicfluid is also the Gearoil, i‘m correct?

 

I would try a 80W Gearoil, with Hydraulic capability, what is recommanded at most Tractors,

i‘ve get this info from our local Tractordealer, when i planed my Hydraulics on my Horse, this may solved your issue.

ATF seems a bit to less viscosity for your purpose.

[953 nut 55,065]

It appears to me that the fulcrum of your new lifting rig is more than double the distance of the sleeve hitch, could be asking too much of the system.

Couldn't hurt to change out the ATF, it has been in there about ten years.        

[Pullstart 62,783]

I’ll start by replacing the fluid.  Is there a decent way to “flush” the system, or is there just a drain valve?  I think I have some mineral oil, I could pull a line and cycle the pump low, then top it off for a flush and drain again I suppose.  There are 5 gallon buckets of hydraulic oil around here from the snow plow business. 

[Shynon 7,459]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

 Is there a decent way to “flush” the system, or is there just a drain valve

I'm pretty sure you are gonna have to pull the pump and take the can off. As long as you are in there I would get a rebuild kit from @wheelhorseman and then refill with ATF, don't fill it too full. Look in the manual for how much it holds. Other things to check, how does it lift just the new hitch you made? Is it binding? Cable? if it's original I would also buy a new one if you are coming to plow days, nothing worse than breaking one and your done. Believe me I know that feeling, always travel with a spare cable and a spare drive belt. 

[Pullstart 62,783]

   

2 hours ago, Shynon said:

I'm pretty sure you are gonna have to pull the pump and take the can off. As long as you are in there I would get a rebuild kit from @wheelhorseman and then refill with ATF, don't fill it too full. Look in the manual for how much it holds. Other things to check, how does it lift just the new hitch you made? Is it binding? Cable? if it's original I would also buy a new one if you are coming to plow days, nothing worse than breaking one and your done. Believe me I know that feeling, always travel with a spare cable and a spare drive belt. 

 

It lifts great with no binding as long as I assist it, so I don’t believe the hitch is the culprit... just the load of the plow.  Also once it’s up, it stays put just fine.  I am unsure of the age of the cable, I’d guess 10 years Richard?    The front of the cable has a solid link between the cable and the lift arm... I’m sure a spare would be a wise idea.  I’ll see if I have time to tear it out for inspection and fresh fluid.

[953 nut 55,065]

2 hours ago, pullstart said:

I am unsure of the age of the cable, I’d guess 10 years Richard?

               Much older!     Cable was good when I bought it and I didn't replace it.

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

It appears to me that the fulcrum of your new lifting rig is more than double the distance of the sleeve hitch, could be asking too much of the system.

Couldn't hurt to change out the ATF, it has been in there about ten years.        

 

I'm going with the nut here  . With the attachment point farther away, it has more up and down movement than back and forth. Looks like it has the lift the weight with less travel.  

 

You could move the pivot farther away from the tractor

 

 

 

Randy 

[Pullstart 62,783]

Could it be this easy?  The set screw was backed out and the pulley slid right off.  I’m going to put things back together and give it a whirl!  Maybe the pulley was slipping on the shaft!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,783]

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Cool if it could be solved that simple.

 

👍

[Pullstart 62,783]

1 minute ago, Tractorhead said:

Cool if it could be solved that simple.

 

👍

 

That’s all it was!  I’m finishing the welding of the rear hitch, then maybe I’ll even smooth it a bit and throw some paint at it!

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

Time to go plowing Hot Wheels!!! And Kevin too!  

I love it when a solution is that simple.  It doesn’t always happen but it happens more often than not.  Thanks for the update...

[Pullstart 62,783]

Overkill, I’m sure, but I found this collar at the hardware store and decided I’d add it to the outside of the pulley, to double the clamping power.  

[Achto 27,502]

19 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

I think the second collar is a great idea.  Might wanna grab a new belt for the hydro there Kevin. The cracks look pretty deep in that one.

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

I think that overbuilding is preferable to the alternative.  Seeing that situation, I’m gonna pull the cover on Clyde (Dad’s 953) and make sure his is tight.  Maybe I can convince him to do the upgrade that you have there!

[Pullstart 62,783]

You guys happy already?  

 

 

[Stormin 9,981]

 Personally, I think the pump is just not man enough for  the job. That's a lot of weight you've got hanging off the back. Also when the plough/low is in the ground, I doubt it would even twitch.

 I'd see about sourcing another pump and power it off the P.T.O.  

 

OOPS! That's a reply to a post in the first part of the thread. Memo to self. Make sure you read ALL the thread before posting.

Edited October 7, 2019 by Stormin

[Achto 27,502]

44 minutes ago, pullstart said:

You guys happy already?  

 

For now.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

@Stormin

i ain’t doubt the pump can handle it, i have more clues to the Clamping itself.

Is it just fixed by the pressure of the Screws to the shaft, isn‘t it?

 

if so, i would mark the contactpoint on the shaft and grind the contact point’s of the shaft on one side a bit,

to have a small flat where the Screws are have a deeper point.

So the screws must be strongly worn out, that they can frict.

 

Similar to that pict‘s 

if the clamp was that kind of 

 

i would grind in contact surface like this

 

 

not as a groove spring but similar to.

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,266]

1 hour ago, Tractorhead said:

pressure of the Screws to the shaft

 

 

I'd like to add to that a little bit. General knowledge type stuff. All the set screws I install on a new surface I tighten them and back them out and tighten them and back them out four five six times before I leave it tight.

 

I'm really not sure where I got that trick from but what happens is that the set screw cup surface digs into the shaft surface a little bit more every time you tighten it. If you look at the clock position of the wrench as you tighten and loosen you'll see that it goes a little further each time you do that.

 

A word of caution when doing this. Be sure NOT to mushroom too much below the set screw or you'll have difficulty removing the item that is being set.

 

[Pullstart 62,783]

Yeah EB, great idea!  Stefan, there is a flat on the shaft for the set screw to hold steady... but I now intend to loosen and tighten this new one a few times over!

[Stormin 9,981]

  OK! I've read what's been said about the set screw. (We call them grub screws.)

  Another way of doing, so you don't mark the shaft as Eric says, is to dimple the shaft enough for the set screw end to enter the dimple.

 

 Two ways of doing it.

(1) Spot through the screw hole in the pulley, then remove and drill deeper.

(2) Fit pulley and tighten screw enough to mark the shaft, then remove and drill dimple.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,783]

The hitch is smoothed and even primed!