Any Worn PTO Repair Ideas?

[oliver2-44 10,370]

So I got this PTO with some parts.  As the picture shows the clutch face area is quite worm.  It mush have been riding on rivets for quite some time.  The bearings and inner journal are good.

 

Any ideas on how to rebuild this face and then machine it back down.  The grooves appear too deep to just machine down.  The remaining face would not be very thick at the edge.  I haven't checked if its cast iron, or cast steel, does anyone know?  If it's cast steel how would you do a weld build up on it and minimize it warping which would effect the pulley grooves?   @pullstart @Sarge @JAinVA @RandyLittrell I'm calling you in since ya'll have a lot of welding knowledge!  

Any thoughts on building it up with one of the epoxy repair products, then machining it back down?

 

Edited August 11, 2019 by oliver2-44

[Pullstart 64,587]

Well, I bet with uniform welding like 1/3 pass, cool, 1/3 pass, cool, 1/3 pass, cool, then 1/6 rotation and start the sequence again...  You could weld it up and turn it back with minimal warpage.  The bearing might not even need removal, but if it’s possible to pop it out it wouldn’t be a bad idea.  I have seen some pretty nast pulleys on a truck not throw a belt, most likely you’ll be fine with constant rpms on the tractor.  

[Stormin 9,983]

 Kevin! What about that PC-7 you've used on that desk your building?

[lynnmor 7,568]

It appears that the outer end is worn to the snap ring groove because it was operated with the hoop rubbing the face, if that is the case send it to the scrap heap.  If it does take too much material removal to true the clutch face, again it is scrap heap time.  I have trued a number of these and wouldn't consider welding unless it is absolutely impossible to find a good one.

[Pullstart 64,587]

30 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 Kevin! What about that PC-7 you've used on that desk your building?

 

That was the first thing that came to my mind, though I doubt it’d work well as a friction surface for too long.  It’s sanding much easier than the steel it sits on,  it much harder than standard auto body filler.

[RandyLittrell 3,894]

Well, I been lucky and haven't had to rebuild a pto on one of my horses yet. Being you don't spend a lot of time kicking it in and out, Sanding it with some 150 on a DA to deglaze it and with a new pad, it may work just fine without machining. 

 

 

 

Randy

[oliver2-44 10,370]

The Snap ring groove is there but the hoop certainly wore a good part of the front edge away.  

 

This would be a good one to test a repair on. as there’s no loss it it doesn’t work. I’m on the fence on trying the PC7 or the welding. 

 

If I weld it what do y’all think of cutting a hole  in a piece of 6” channel iron where the second pulls ring would sit down into, but the larger bottom one would not go through.  Then tack weld that larger outer edge to the plate in six places. The thought is the channel iron would be a stiffener to help keep it from warping and it would also act as a heat sink to draw heat away.  

Thoughts?

[JAinVA 4,629]

I don't think I would weld it.The section is thin and warping is a given.If I wanted to try something I would go with JB weld and a DA.Beyond that scrap it.Some times things just become paperweights.

Edited August 11, 2019 by JAinVA

[953 nut 57,970]

I would call Lincoln @A-Z Tractor and get a good used PTO, he is reasonable on prices and as honest as the day is long.