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CountryRock

1995 416H Service & Cleaning Journal

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lynnmor

Measure the hose and go to McMaster, they have all kinds.

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CountryRock

Finished getting the shroud back on and changed the engine oil yesterday.  Also snugged up the friction washer on the motion control.  I noticed the volt meter wasn't working last night, didn't have time to mess with it til today.  Wires appear to be hooked up correctly. I started checking the rest of the electrical systems.  Found that the battery seemed to be charging with erratic voltage at any throttle setting and it was way more than it should be getting.  Fairly certain the voltage regulator is toast.  Alternator appears to be putting out what it needs to.  Ordered a used regulator and a new ignition switch from A-Z.  I'll continue checking electrical stuff when I have more time.  This tractor was blowing the 25amp fuse at one time, I want to make sure that won't happen again.

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lynnmor

Since you were working with the blower housing, perhaps the voltage regulator is not grounded properly.  It works by directing current to ground so it needs good electrical contact where it is mounted.

The engine manual has good troubleshooting instructions if you continue to have problems.

I have used the cheap regulators found online with good success.

The old analog style voltmeters are better than digital for working on these systems.  With the regulator trying to regulate many times per second, an analog pointer will average out those pulses, but a digital will go crazy trying to keep up.

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peter lena

countryrock, great work on that , we are with you on your major work  effort, on that fuel issue , i always put  STABIL  in every gas addition , find it to eliminate any fuel issues i had . the way you are going after that horse , is the way i would go after it. its everything  that has had no care or service.  i hope you manage to get it , you more than deserve it .  no screwing around , just get it done , good job, pete

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CountryRock
35 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Since you were working with the blower housing, perhaps the voltage regulator is not grounded properly.  It works by directing current to ground so it needs good electrical contact where it is mounted.

The engine manual has good troubleshooting instructions if you continue to have problems.

I have used the cheap regulators found online with good success.

The old analog style voltmeters are better than digital for working on these systems.  With the regulator trying to regulate many times per second, an analog pointer will average out those pulses, but a digital will go crazy trying to keep up.

I'm wondering more if I just didn't hook the wires back where they go.  I'll make a separate post with pics in electrical for that.

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CountryRock
20 minutes ago, peter lena said:

countryrock, great work on that , we are with you on your major work  effort, on that fuel issue , i always put  STABIL  in every gas addition , find it to eliminate any fuel issues i had . the way you are going after that horse , is the way i would go after it. its everything  that has had no care or service.  i hope you manage to get it , you more than deserve it .  no screwing around , just get it done , good job, pete

It's running way better now that all the lines are new.  I've been using seafoam or mystery oil in all my other equipment, works well.

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lynnmor
6 hours ago, CountryRock said:

It's running way better now that all the lines are new.  I've been using seafoam or mystery oil in all my other equipment, works well.

 

There is no need to use any additives.  Stabil is useful if the gasoline will be stored long term.

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peter lena

countryrock, great work on that , we are with you on your major work  effort, on that fuel issue , i always put  STABIL  in every gas addition , find it to eliminate any fuel issues i had . the way you are going after that horse , is the way i would go after it. its everything  that has had no care or service.  i hope you manage to get it , you more than deserve it .  no screwing around , just get it done , good job, pete

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CountryRock

Got around to checking out electrical connections today.  Starting with the ignition switch connector, I pulled each wire out of the connector, 1 by 1 and sprayed the terminals with contact cleaner and put em back in.  I installed a new ignition switch as well and hooked that up.  Did the terminals on the hour meter, volt meter and light switch too.  Then I did the 9 pin connector up by the battery, the fuse block and finally the one down next to the engine.  I installed another voltage regulator and now the engine charges the battery as it should.  However I still couldn't get the volt meter to work, so I swapped it with another I had sitting in the garage, but still nothing.  The 9 pin connector by the engine raised some concerns as it looked like a couple wires were cut on one side, and some were missing.  Also, the lights stopped working for some reason.  I'll have to go study some wiring diagrams later and figure out what is what.

IMG_20191005_160421.jpg

IMG_20191005_160436.jpg

IMG_20191005_164351.jpg

IMG_20191005_164413.jpg

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Andy N.
On 10/5/2019 at 6:13 PM, CountryRock said:

Got around to checking out electrical connections today.  Starting with the ignition switch connector, I pulled each wire out of the connector, 1 by 1 and sprayed the terminals with contact cleaner and put em back in.  I installed a new ignition switch as well and hooked that up.  Did the terminals on the hour meter, volt meter and light switch too.  Then I did the 9 pin connector up by the battery, the fuse block and finally the one down next to the engine.  I installed another voltage regulator and now the engine charges the battery as it should.  However I still couldn't get the volt meter to work, so I swapped it with another I had sitting in the garage, but still nothing.  The 9 pin connector by the engine raised some concerns as it looked like a couple wires were cut on one side, and some were missing.  Also, the lights stopped working for some reason.  I'll have to go study some wiring diagrams later and figure out what is what.

IMG_20191005_160421.jpg

IMG_20191005_160436.jpg

IMG_20191005_164351.jpg

IMG_20191005_164413.jpg

 

How do you remove the wires from the connector? Is there a special extraction / insert tool for this?

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JoeM
41 minutes ago, Andy N. said:

How do you remove the wires from the connector? Is there a special extraction / insert tool for this?

I believe you need a Molex removal tool, but there is a guy on the tube that does it with a couple of staples. I have not tried the staple thing but is worth looking at.

 

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peter lena

from the looks of your connectors, one of the first things i would do , just to verify power flow , is to lightly  sandpaper the male side of the plug , to enhance the connection , and use a small amount of  DIELECTRIC GREASE  on the pug in ends, that by itself might give you a sign of life. you can also find those connectors on line ,giving you the opportunity to cut out and remove the problem . good grounding is vital to that dash area, and making up a  couple of grounding wires , from chassis is easy. jmoo, pete 

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CountryRock
2 hours ago, Andy N. said:

 

How do you remove the wires from the connector? Is there a special extraction / insert tool for this?

I bought a cheap set of terminal tools from Amazon a while back.  Less than $10 and very handy for a variety of connector types.

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