Alright, DB front mount sickle bar on a Wheel Horse?

[Pullstart 62,785]

[Pullstart 62,785]

 

[WHNJ701 4,165]

the ag's on the front look sharp!

[Pullstart 62,785]

3 minutes ago, jabelman said:

the ag's on the front look sharp!

 

Pretty much the reason I bought the tractor last year 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,785]

The lift rod works!  I cut about 5-1/2” off the lift tube.  Wow those things are thick!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,785]

 

[ebinmaine 67,267]

6 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

Pretty much the reason I bought the tractor last year 

 

 

I'd absolutely do something like that...

[Tractorhead 9,064]

 

Looked your last video about „Steve and the Sicklebar“ 👍

[peter lena 8,580]

pullstart,  nice job on that , also a great opportunity to add this to your  modifications ,  https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Special-Purpose-Corn-Head-Gun-Grease-AN102562.html   take advantage of every contact friction point ,and make sure its getting a lubricant that will stay with it , as long as it meets the j/d spec get what you want , i like lucas , red and tacky and heavy duty greases . with the right lube, that bar set up will move without effort .  pete

[Pullstart 62,785]

@peter lena The Red and Tacky does the same as green grease?  Good to know!

 

How is the sickle bar supposed to get grease under the bar?  Pack it like an old wheel bearing?  I don’t see any zerk fittings...  

[Pullstart 62,785]

Hi.  I’m Pullstart.  I think I might be an addict.  I lay awake at night dreaming about Wheel Horses...

 

This tensioner had me awake looking at the ceiling a few times in the night.  I think there’s room to drill through the tach-a-matic to mount the tensioner in near stock form.  In raised and lowered positions, I believe it’ll work just dandy to keep the lower portion of the belt taught. It clears the engine cradle and the hood well in all positions too!

 

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,785]

General idea proving true.  I’ll try to cut the welds on the tensioner arm, locate the pulleys in the correct orientation then weld stuff.

 

 

[peter lena 8,580]

pullstart,  nice job on that , also a great opportunity to add this to your  modifications ,  https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Special-Purpose-Corn-Head-Gun-Grease-AN102562.html   take advantage of every contact friction point ,and make sure its getting a lubricant that will stay with it , as long as it meets the j/d spec get what you want , i like lucas , red and tacky and heavy duty greases . with the right lube, that bar set up will move without effort .  pete

[peter lena 8,580]

pullstart while there are no zerk fittings on the bottom of the sickle bar , you can use a , "   cable and open gear spray lubricant  "  that will stay with it . i would use it before and after  use. also that belt tension pulley set up , should be lubricated at every spring tension movement point , so the belt gets all the engine rpm. try this , on those sealed belt pulleys , spray the bearing area with a chain lubricant , do they bubble up ? and suck in the lubricant ? you are feeding a long dry bearing , but making it run easier. i have gone after many dysfunctional attachments, rust and neglect , is something you have to make into a smooth movement point. sorry if i offended anyone about obvious rust and non function ,  if its supposed to  swing and move , lubrication , helps, pete    

[Pullstart 62,785]

Using the lathe as a rotating vice and the carbide tipped blade in the sawzall to cut the weld.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,785]

3 minutes ago, peter lena said:

pullstart while there are no zerk fittings on the bottom of the sickle bar , you can use a , "   cable and open gear spray lubricant  "  that will stay with it . i would use it before and after  use. also that belt tension pulley set up , should be lubricated at every spring tension movement point , so the belt gets all the engine rpm. try this , on those sealed belt pulleys , spray the bearing area with a chain lubricant , do they bubble up ? and suck in the lubricant ? you are feeding a long dry bearing , but making it run easier. i have gone after many dysfunctional attachments, rust and neglect , is something you have to make into a smooth movement point. sorry if i offended anyone about obvious rust and non function ,  if its supposed to  swing and move , lubrication , helps, pete    

 

I think I’ve got some chain lube...  if not, I will!  Thanks a ton for input one and all!  

[Pullstart 62,785]

The tension arm is loose!  I’ll clean the rod and see if I can’t weld up the groove and cut it back with the lathe.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2020 by pullstart
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[Pullstart 62,785]

I have the tensioner put together.  It keeps the belt happy both lifted and lowered!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,785]

 

[8ntruck 6,991]

Don't bother with paint. 

 

Leave it as is, as a tribute to the pulling tractors that E J Potter ran.

[Pullstart 62,785]

16 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

Don't bother with paint. 

 

Leave it as is, as a tribute to the pulling tractors that E J Potter ran.

 

I’ll have to read up on EJ Potter, but I was thinking it would weather just fine raw.  If not, I’ll e-tank the parts some other day and paint it up pretty.

 

I was thinking for the tractor too... maybe a wet sand, maybe just leave the runs...

[8ntruck 6,991]

E J Potter's tractors were in the unlimited classes, powered by Allison V1710 twelve cylinder aircraft engines.  They appeared to have been assembled out of leftover and salvaged bits and pieces that were well pitenaed.

 

Dispite the way they looked, those tractors ran exceptionally well.

[edgro 677]

I remember seeing Potter kick butt with those things. One was called ugly, the one with the twin Allison's from a PT boat was named double ugly

[Pullstart 62,785]

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

Oops back to the shop!