pfrederi 17,879 #26 Posted December 8, 2019 I would do both 1533's the mushroom gear bearing is WH 1532 or commercial number M-16121 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #27 Posted December 8, 2019 Thanks so much! I just ordered those three...a little pricey but gotta have it... cant believe those darn 1533's are $45 a piece! But theres nobody else who has them...Cant wait to get this one back together n plow some snow! Heres some more pics of the teardown. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #28 Posted December 8, 2019 I just replaced that closed end needle bearing and all new seals. It wasn’t very difficult and hasn’t leaked a drop and no more milky oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,879 #29 Posted December 8, 2019 Before Lowell offered them you were stuck with used 1533 or an occasional NOS but for $80 or more!!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #30 Posted December 9, 2019 4 hours ago, Burnerman said: I just replaced that closed end needle bearing and all new seals. It wasn’t very difficult and hasn’t leaked a drop and no more milky oil. Glad to hear it bud! Hope yours works out well! And heres to hoping mine does the same! 🍻 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #31 Posted December 9, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, pfrederi said: Before Lowell offered them you were stuck with used 1533 or an occasional NOS but for $80 or more!!! Thats insane! Im glad we have this forum...i dont know what id do without you guys! Seriously thanks a bunch! by the way @stevasaurus thanks for the tip with getting the outer axle bearings out with a socket and extension worked like a charm! Edited December 9, 2019 by Gordyhogg 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #32 Posted December 9, 2019 I used a socket to remove and install that closed end needle bearing. The socket was just slightly smaller then the hole and was perfect to install the bear with no damage. Just tapped it in. You’ll be fine. Just take your time when you reassemble and don’t force anything. I had a little trouble getting the cluster gears nested together so the shift forks sat in the correct place but other then that fairly painless. Be sure to get all the metal debris out of the differential too. 👍 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096 #33 Posted December 9, 2019 This should be the transmission you have. Toro in many cases has the models listed wrong and a chore to figure out. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #34 Posted December 9, 2019 Good news and bad news...the good news is my bearings are supposed to come thursday and i successfully removed the 1533 bearings using @dclarke's idea and it worked great! No having to rent a puller just used what i had laying around the shop. The BAD news is...upon trying to remove the 1532 capped bearing...i managed to break the cap off and am not real sure how to remove the rest of the "sleeve". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #35 Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) If you take a small punch or awl and drive ti between the casting and the bearing remains it will bend inward and slip right out. Lubricate the new bearing well and drive it in gently from the outside. Edited December 10, 2019 by 953 nut 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #36 Posted December 10, 2019 You did the same as me I bet. The capped end popped right off didn’t it? 😲 I found a socket that was a millimeter smaller than the bearing OD and used that to evenly tap out the outer race of the bearing from the case. A wooden handle maybe able to be used also. Just don’t damage the case. It’s a press fit and will come out fairly easily. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #37 Posted December 10, 2019 Hahaha sure did! I will definitely try those tips out guys thank you! Thats my biggest fear is damaging the case ive got 4/5 bearings out sucessfully so far im aiming for 5/5. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #38 Posted December 10, 2019 Random thought i just had...should i have waited till i had everything back together before installing my axle seals? I didnt think that would hurt anything but... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #39 Posted December 10, 2019 Just be sure the axles are as clean and smooth as you can get them ( especially the keyways) and lubricate the axle end before it goes in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #40 Posted December 10, 2019 Will do 953 thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,787 #41 Posted December 11, 2019 On 7/23/2019 at 12:18 PM, Gordyhogg said: Also i cleaned the carb out yesterday and it idles beautifully now. Before it would die on low throttle. Now i have 2 problems...one, they key will not kill the engine (and i cleaned the pins on the back of the ignition cylinder) and two, if i restart the engine after its been shut down it backfires very loudly out of the exhaust. Any thoughts? It could be the switch the tractor is 30 years old. The dash plate on 312 only has two 1/4" bolts If they are rusty that could be why it doesn't shut down. I have had that problem on my 312-8. I have two WH that age I have had to replace the switch on both. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #42 Posted December 11, 2019 Thank you @Lee1977 ill definitely be looking into it once i get the transmission back together. Im thinking new key switch too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #43 Posted December 11, 2019 Supposedly the mailman brought my bearings a day early! Any tips on installing the 1533's? Just a block of wood and some persuasion with a dead blow hammer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,165 #44 Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) That should be ok. Some grease around the outside and they should go in without much effort. Pick the seals out of the 1533's before putting in. Might have been mentioned but put some black tape over the axle keyways to prevent nicking the axles seals. Use your shout out you run into questions problems. Many of us have put these back together only to find we did something stupid! Like to see that not happen to you. Edited December 11, 2019 by WHX24 speeling 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #45 Posted December 11, 2019 55 minutes ago, WHX24 said: That should be ok. Some grease around the outside and they should go in without much effort. Pick the seals out of the 1533's before putting in. Might have been mentioned but put some black tape over the axle keyways to prevent nicking the axles seals Thanks! Ill let you guys know how it goes...i can at least get the 1533s in tonight but im not sure how long its gonna take to get the busted 1532 out i appreciate the helpful tip @WHX24 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #46 Posted December 12, 2019 It came out!!! I had a genious idea! I used my old outer axle bearing to use as the awl to punch it out. Turns out they are the same o.d. so i then just tapped that back out and there we go! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #48 Posted December 12, 2019 PROBLEM!!!! THE 1533'S DONT FIT!!! what do i do?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #49 Posted December 12, 2019 (edited) Size comparison...new one is on the right and it is indeed marked 1533 Edited December 12, 2019 by Gordyhogg 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,779 #50 Posted December 12, 2019 6 minutes ago, Gordyhogg said: THE 1533'S DONT FIT!!! You bought the bearings from Lowell @wheelhorseman right? Best give him a call, he is first class and will make it right for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
