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Retired Wrencher

paper filter for oil

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Retired Wrencher

This may raise some hairy eye brows BUT. I have a 1/2 case of Castrol oil 30 weight. I like Castrol oil. Big $`s a quart.Thinking of using cooking oil filters that fit into your funnel for reuse.  I can filter it twice so I can reuse it next summer. They are cheap in price. But a lot less than a engine heater. Any thoughts?

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oliver2-44

I have a inexpensive external oil filter housing and a electric fountain pump that I've use to  circulate diesel.  After an initial flush I refill engines or transmissions and let this pump and filter run all day.  I've never pumped 30 weight with this setup, but i believe it would work.  Using the oil filter it would clean you oil down to the micron level, which would be a lot finer that the cooking oil filter.

Note: The fountain pump is water proof, but not explosion proof rated, so I do this outside for safety.  

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pfrederi

Not sure Understand what an engine heater has to do with this.  As far as filtering and resuaing oil it isn't just solids that cause issues there are acids and other liquid chemical by products of combustion

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953 nut

Which would cost more, a couple quarts of oil or a replacement engine?

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pfrederi

Another consideration is that modern oils are a lot more than just a petroleum base.  There are many additives that perform different functions.  Some of these are used up over time and while the oil will still be slippery some benefits are lost.

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Retired Wrencher
16 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Which would cost more, a couple quarts of oil or a replacement engine?

I know Richard. It was just a thought. I do like oliver2-44 Idea but a little hi teck for me.   I made a mistake buying this expensive oil because I do not use the tractor enough. It sits most of the time. But I have it when I need it. Thanks every one for your comments.

Edited by Retierd Wrencher

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ebinmaine

Gary, how many hours a year do you use it and how often do you change the oil?

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Sparky

 Do I understand right...your asking about trying to run straight 30 in the summer, drain it and save it, refill with 10-30 for the winter and then dump in last years straight 30 after the winter is over? 

  Getting a couple summers out of the straight 30? And filtering out any particles with that paper you mention? 

  In theory it should be fine, as long as your keeping track of the hours on the two oils.

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953 nut
10 hours ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

I do like oliver2-44 Idea

I think what he was talking about would be diesel fuel, not lubricant. Diesel fuel will develop organic continents while sitting in storage, that is why you find filters on fueling stations for diesel.

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Retired Wrencher
13 hours ago, Sparky said:

 Do I understand right...your asking about trying to run straight 30 in the summer, drain it and save it, refill with 10-30 for the winter and then dump in last years straight 30 after the winter is over? 

  Getting a couple summers out of the straight 30? And filtering out any particles with that paper you mention? 

  In theory it should be fine, as long as your keeping track of the hours on the two oils.

Mike it is like I told 953 nut.  The B80 sits most of the time under the porch most of the summer. I do not mow with it. I basically use it for moving land scaping stone  in summer when I need to. Or just putt around the house with it when I like taking a ride. I basically bought for snow plow in the winter. I just thought I could do this with todays technology.

Edited by Retierd Wrencher

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ebinmaine

Gary I had HD30 in the plow tractors this past winter and no problems starting at any time.

I let the engine warm up for a few minutes and then went to work.

Temps were regularly in the 20s, sometimes a little lower.

I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort to swap out oil for winter/summer.

I've run HD30 or 10w30 in mine and family small engines all my life and really can't say as I've noticed a big difference with either one.

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shallowwatersailor
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Gary I had HD30 in the plow tractors this past winter and no problems starting at any time.

I let the engine warm up for a few minutes and then went to work.

Temps were regularly in the 20s, sometimes a little lower.

I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort to swap out oil for winter/summer.

I've run HD30 or 10w30 in mine and family small engines all my life and really can't say as I've noticed a big difference with either one.

Eric, it is not whether an engine can start or not using 30W in the winter. 30W doesn't provide the lubrication qualities of a 10W in the winter. It is causing more wear on the engine. I just dumped a fill of 10W-30 in a tractor that I had set up for snowplowing this past Winter for 30W so that I could mow with it. I never used the tractor over the Winter!

 

Remember these are air-cooled engines that don't heat/coll like an engine with a radiator. Air-cooled engines in cars (VW/Porsche) use vanes in the airstream to regulate the temperatures. Kohler and other small air-cooled engines engines don't have that feature but depend on lubricating oil for cooling as well as air flow.

 

John

Edited by shallowwatersailor
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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Eric, it is not whether an engine can start or not using 30W in the winter. 30W doesn't provide the lubrication qualities of a 10W in the winter. It is causing more wear on the engine. I just dumped a fill of 10W-30 in a tractor that I had set up for snowplowing this past Winter for 30W so that I could mow with it. I never used the tractor over the Winter!

 

Remember these are air-cooled engines that don't heat/coll like an engine with a radiator. Air-cooled engines in cars (VW/Porsche) use vanes in the airstream to regulate the temperatures.

 

John

Ahh...  True.

 

I should probably set a disclaimer here.

The most recent case of oil I bought is 10w30.

More versatile and broad temp usage here in Maine.

 

 

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