Haficon 12 #1 Posted July 10, 2019 Hello, still searching trying to find the answer answer on my own but my lawn is needing cut. The engine was ran with almost no oil while I was deployed, I got home and the engine appeared to be seized. I got it to turn by hand and now it spins fine. I actually think the starter was stuck engaged. But new starter installed and it runs but smokes horribly never smoked before. I pulled the head to see the cylinder, adjusted the valves. Was suspected to have bad rings but I got my hands on a compression tester and she has 120psi and holding so the rings appear to be good. All reassembled and it will not turn over. I suspect it is the safety switch for the mower blade engage/disengage. I moved it around and it spun for a minute then stopped. Nothing across the started relay when you turn the key. I jumped the relay and the engine turns good but no fire to the plug. Can anyone one give me insight? All fuses are good, but the key does nothing is the cut out switch something that can prevent starting if it is bad? I have never tried to start it with the PTO engaged. But I pulled the harness off the switch and looks like it has a homemade jumper on it so maybe there was a problem before? But is there a way to eliminate this switch? I will replace it with a new one if I can find one but I do not know where to start. james blue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187 #2 Posted July 10, 2019 Your engine was made in 1985 so not original to the tractor. The pto switch is 2 switches in one. One half controls the ignition with the seat switch. The other half controls the starter with the transmission neutral switch. Pto OFF and transmission in neutral the power should go to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The switch plastic wire holder does not appear to be overheated so switch may be ok. Click on the picture These diagrams will help you understand how it works. Questions? Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #3 Posted July 10, 2019 Awesome thank you.. I did make it overt I the manual section on the forum was sorting it out. So I guess at some point the seat switch was disabled, I got off countless times with it running and it did not shut down. Going to do more testing this evening I plan to keep this tractor for as long as I live so I may look into a complete rewire and a paint job down the road. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,175 #4 Posted July 10, 2019 Of course you have the option of bypassing the - aggravating - safety switches, I do! They too often fail or cause problems and can be difficult to replace. However, I am the only person to use my tractors - If you have anyone else that will use yours that may not be wise.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,105 #5 Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) If your engine is a 1985 Kohler k341 16 hp you should not be able to measures 120 lb compression. That engine has a compression release as part of the cam. If all the decals are still on your engine there will be one that says ACR (Automatic Compression Release) in larger letters. At low (starting) rpm the release holds a valve open slight so the starter doesn't have to work so hard to spin the engine up. You might want to redo your compression test. If you are actually measuring 120 psi that would mean the the compression release is not working. Your starter would have a hard time spinning the engine over. On a Kohler K341 you would need to use a Leak Down tester to check if the valves and rings are good. @953 nut, @Achto jump in here and help me out on what he's seeing @pacer jump in here since you just replied. Am I on the right tack with his compression reading Edited July 10, 2019 by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,828 #6 Posted July 10, 2019 Did you use straight 30wt non synthetic oil? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187 #7 Posted July 10, 2019 Your engine K341S-71371 was original on a 1985 416-8 model 31-16K801. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #8 Posted July 10, 2019 Awesome thank you.. I did make it overt I the manual section on the forum was sorting it out. So I guess at some point the seat switch was disabled, I got off countless times with it running and it did not shut down. Going to do more testing this evening I plan to keep this tractor for as long as I live so I may look into a complete rewire and a paint job down the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #9 Posted July 10, 2019 Yes to standard 30wt oil. Engine does have ACR, I will do another test and see if it will hold the pressure for a little while. I did adjust the valves so could I have jacked up the ACR doing that? TDC and adjusted them with in spec as per Kohler manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #10 Posted July 10, 2019 2 hours ago, pacer said: Of course you have the option of bypassing the - aggravating - safety switches, I do! They too often fail or cause problems and can be difficult to replace. However, I am the only person to use my tractors - If you have anyone else that will use yours that may not be wise.... Just me me and my wife at times but she knows to stop the blades before getting off and to start it with no load. Main reason to jump the safety stop is just for trouble shooting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,105 #11 Posted July 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Haficon said: Yes to standard 30wt oil. Engine does have ACR, I will do another test and see if it will hold the pressure for a little while. I did adjust the valves so could I have jacked up the ACR doing that? TDC and adjusted them with in spec as per Kohler manual. The ACR is part of the camshaft. Adjusting the valves should not have changes the ACR Do another compression test and let us know what you get. If needed you may be able to access the ACR by removing the round cover that covers the camshaft. I've never worked on an ACT, so someone with experience in that will have to jump in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187 #12 Posted July 11, 2019 I made a mistake on the page for the 104680 switch. I had one pair of terminals as NO (Normally open) and one pair NC (Normally closed) They are both NO (Normally open) That means if the switch button is not activated the contacts are open. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #13 Posted July 13, 2019 Alright so I pretty much re wired the whole tractor thanks for the diagram. Starts, runs all is great except the engine is smoking something bad, white smoke so I am going to check carb settings and maybe that will help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #14 Posted July 13, 2019 Started adjusting the card as per owners manual.. Cleaned up and started running smooth and then got a loud metallic noise before I could secure it, it died. Pulled the head the intake valve would not open. Pulled the valve cover found a hole in the block. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #15 Posted July 13, 2019 Can I get some opinions on what this is worth for a part out? I’m done with it... C165 Hydrostatic Drive hydro deck lift 42” deck solid starter and battery are maybe a week old. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #16 Posted July 31, 2019 So sorry to hear this but the running dry took its toll. Sorry that you're up in VA. This GA boy would be interested in a black hood auto with side discharge. Horses are hard to find down here... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
