416-8 clutch question

[Islander 0]

Hi. On my 1990 416-8 there is a piston type part on a bracket that is contacted by a plate connected to the clutch take-up pulley. When you let up on the clutch the plate contacts the piston.  What is the purpose of this piston part?   My clutch plate is misaligned and didn’t touch the piston, and all seems to work fine.  Sorry that I don’t know the official names of the parts, but I hope my question is understandable. Thanks.

[JAinVA 4,623]

If the part you are referring to is aft of the clutch arm it is a shock to slow the release of the clutch pedal.It is meant to keep you from inadvertantly popping a wheelie if your foot slips off the clutch pedal.It is a safety device but the tractor will function without it.

[Racinbob 11,232]

Wheel Horse used 4 different methods to control the clutch idler arm. A spring only, a damper connected to the idler arm and used with the spring, a strut connected to the arm that did all the work without the spring, and what you have, a damper that 'caught' the idler arm just before full engagement. I've had all of them and in my opinion the best way is the old tried and true spring only. I don't advocate removing safety items but my personal tractors have ultimately ended up with spring only operation. It worked fine for decades. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

The first design is what I would call an air shock. There is a small hole that allows air to enter and exit the cylinder as the plunger is moved. Dust and dirt gets sucked into it affecting it's operation. Have cleaned this type up and made them work again.

The damper is #53

Return spring is #48 on the left side of the transmission

 

Garry

[Islander 0]

12 hours ago, JAinVA said:

If the part you are referring to is aft of the clutch arm it is a shock to slow the release of the clutch pedal.It is meant to keep you from inadvertantly popping a wheelie if your foot slips off the clutch pedal.It is a safety device but the tractor will function without it.

Ok, makes sense. I removed the damper as it wasn’t doing anything.

 

The drive belt seems to be a little unbalanced and as it rotates the clutch bounces slightly. I didn’t know if this shock was meant to dampen the affects of this bouncing.

[Islander 0]

3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The first design is what I would call an air shock. There is a small hole that allows air to enter and exit the cylinder as the plunger is moved. Dust and dirt gets sucked into it affecting it's operation. Have cleaned this type up and made them work again.

The damper is #53

Return spring is #48 on the left side of the transmission

 

Garry

Thanks Garry.  Do you happen to know if the strike plate on the arm #16 is welded, or just bolted? It appears to be misaligned with the damper, but I don’t know if it is adjustable.

[Racinbob 11,232]

3 minutes ago, Islander said:

Ok, makes sense. I removed the damper as it wasn’t doing anything.

 

The drive belt seems to be a little unbalanced and as it rotates the clutch bounces slightly. I didn’t know if this shock was meant to dampen the affects of this bouncing.

No, it isn't intended to eliminate the little chatter. As I mentioned, just replace the belt even if it looks good. I bought my 2005 in 2009 and had the very same issue. I got on here and somebody told me the same thing. Replace the belt. I did just that and now, 10 years later I'm still purring along smoothly and my clutch feels great like my other older models with no lag in engagement and no issue popping a wheelie. 

[oliver2-44 9,870]

When you replace the belt, consider buying a Wheelhorse/Toro OEM brand belt or a kevlar belt like the Green kevlar belts sold at Tractor Supply.  Many on here have reported having better luck with them verses a standard auto parts store rubber belt.

[Racinbob 11,232]

For my tractors that take a 5L drive belt I tend to stick with OEM. The older 4L I do the Kevlar thing.